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1st & 2nd Generation (19831986 & 1987-1991) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 11-20-2012, 02:37 PM   #1 (permalink)
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1989 Toyota Camry no fire

I have looked up and reviewed all the post to see if I can find a fix to my problem.

I have replaced the distrib, igniter and relay but I still have no fire. The code flashes 5 times 3-4 second pause then 1. Let the codes flash for 7-8 cycles and if I am reading it proper it is saying no signal from igniter.

Any help would be very helping in this. I gotta go back to work lol


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Old 11-20-2012, 03:45 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Sounds like the igniter has failed or there is a break in the wire somewhere... Check the wiring for continuity (multimeter) and if it checks out then replace the igniter. If that doesn't fix it, you can always return it so you won't have spent a gob of money on nothing.
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Old 11-20-2012, 03:52 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by '88 All-Trac View Post
Sounds like the igniter has failed or there is a break in the wire somewhere... Check the wiring for continuity (multimeter) and if it checks out then replace the igniter. If that doesn't fix it, you can always return it so you won't have spent a gob of money on nothing.
Thanks..I replaced the igniter from another that was running as well as the distib. We can smell fumes from the fuel. Had a new timing belt installed 1-2 yrs ago. Going to pull the ECM from the other next. The distrib looked like new. Mine was soaked in oil..bad. Coil was split top and bottom.




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Old 11-20-2012, 09:13 PM   #4 (permalink)
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How the problem originally started?

On 89 camry code 51 (five flashes -pause flash- long pause) has nothing to do with igniter.
On Camry TCCS the fuel will not be injected if ECU getting no feedback signal from igniter
verify that you have power on black/orange wire that goes to ignition coil using 3.4 watt light bulb, not voltmeter or LED tester
if so attach analog voltmeter positive probe to the tach test terminal at distributor (uncap it) and negative probe to the cyliner head (good ground)

set ithe scale to 20 VDC
tape meter to the windshield
crank the engine
if needle jumps between 0 and 6 volts the primary circuit of ignition coil, igniter, ECU and pick-up coils inside distributor are working
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Old 11-21-2012, 05:10 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Got her running. Go figure not even 4 months on a rotor button and not worth a flip. Now I have to reset the timing. She is still spitting and sputtering. I will replace cap wires and button again to see if this solves that.
Thanks for all the help and info...


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Old 11-22-2012, 07:47 AM   #6 (permalink)
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On my car the bad rotor made a spark good enough to trigger the flashes of the timing light but too weak to ignite the fuel mixture
It took me 4 hours to figure that out because the flashes from timing light made me think that the ignition system had no problems
Rpough running can be due to the intake vacuum leaks; code 51 indicate throttle position sensor out of adjustment (unless a/c swith was pushed in durings the test)
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