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#1 Old 09-02-2013, 07:05 PM
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2nd Generation disc brake dust shields

I was driving today and one of the disc brake dust shields fell off the car. I knew they were rusty but geez.

Looking at the manual, it seems insanely involved to replace something so simple. They seem to want you to take off the entire steering knuckle. I wanted to check with you guys to see what's really required.

Here's what I'm hoping I can do:
1) Remove tire / axle lock nut / dust cap / cotter pin, etc.
2) Remove the disc brake caliper & rotor.
3) Pull out the axle hub. How, I don't know. It should just be a press fit at this point. 3-point puller with jaws around axle hub and center on the axle?
4) Unbolt dust covers (what's left of them), and remove.
5) Install new dust covers.
6) Put axle hub back in. Tap in with rubber mallet. Grease?
7) Reinstall brake hardware.
8) Use axle lock nut to tighten everything back together. 137 ft/lbs.


Questions:
* Is this possible? If so, how would you pull the axle hub and reinstall it? What tool would you use?
* Do I need to replace either the outside oil seal or axle hub?
* If I need to get a new axle hub, does that mean I need a new bearing too? (In which case the knuckle's coming off.)

Here's what the parts look like (no ABS on my car).



Thanks!
- Craig

Last edited by auto_robotics; 09-02-2013 at 07:19 PM.
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#2 Old 09-02-2013, 07:21 PM
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Sorry i can't lend you any assistance on this one, but I have a few questions myself if you dont mind. Are the dust covers even necessary? What is it keeping dust from?

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#3 Old 09-02-2013, 07:33 PM
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Hah, well not strictly I'd say since I just drove the car 200+ miles without it. Toyota: "don't worry about that part that just fell off the car -- it'll still work"

I believe the point is to keep road dirt/mud/water from sticking to the disc brake rotors. Keeping them clean would give the brake pads an easier job and probably longer life. I could also see debris possibly scoring up the rotor too when caught between the pads and the surface.
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#4 Old 09-02-2013, 07:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by auto_robotics View Post
Hah, well not strictly I'd say since I just drove the car 200+ miles without it. Toyota: "don't worry about that part that just fell off the car -- it'll still work"

I believe the point is to keep road dirt/mud/water from sticking to the disc brake rotors. Keeping them clean would give the brake pads an easier job and probably longer life. I could also see debris possibly scoring up the rotor too when caught between the pads and the surface.
Ohhh yea, great point. Definitely want to keep the rotor protected lol.

Hey just saw your from VA as well!

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#5 Old 09-02-2013, 08:25 PM
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Took mine off when i changed my brakes. They too were extremely rusted. I took them off because i feared that if they broke bent or came free while the car was in motion that it might snag a brake line. Or damage something else on its journey off my car.
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#6 Old 09-03-2013, 04:06 PM
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Attached to the brake dust shield (not shown) is an air scoop to help cool the brakes. After it broke off on our 87 DX I fabricated a new one and riveted it on.

After 25 years experience with this car and 8 years with an 88 LE I can attest that the brake pads do wear out faster without them. Both cars have had one side break off and that is the side that ends up wearing down quicker. Not a lot quicker but definitely quicker.
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#7 Old 09-03-2013, 08:23 PM
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I just recently did this (6 months ago) to my 90 camry and 92 corrolla. The dust shields on both cars had rested badly. Instead of pulling the hub apart, i just used a cutoff tool to cut the part in the opening of the shield to make the shield look like the letter "C". They then slip on without problem and now don't require the hub to be pulled apart. However, the bolts that hold the shield on both cars are special and hard to get off once rusted on the car. The reason they are special is the heighth is very low and the diameter of the head is smaller than normal so that the bolt head doesn't hit/rub the inside of the rotor. So I couldn't just replaced with hex heads for easy removal next time and to eliminate the stripping of the factory bolts. Moreover, there aren't many of these dust shield bolts left in the US: all the more to replace with hex heads.

So if you know of any dust shield bolt head replacements for the factory ones it wold be nice to know what they are without modifying hex head bolts significantly or some other type.
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#8 Old 09-03-2013, 09:05 PM
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Mine are mounted with standard M6x1mm bolts.

I highly recommend a press for pulling the hub. A rubber mallet certainly won't apply enough force to press the center back in. I'm not surehow to explain the process.

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#9 Old 09-03-2013, 09:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swegmike
So if you know of any dust shield bolt head replacements for the factory ones it wold be nice to know what they are without modifying hex head bolts significantly or some other type.
Part number for the bolts looks like 90080-11429. Still available! McMaster might have something similar too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by '88 All-Trac View Post
I highly recommend a press for pulling the hub. A rubber mallet certainly won't apply enough force to press the center back in. I'm not surehow to explain the process.
Well, I was thinking that torquing the big axle lock nut to 137 ft-lbs at the end would press the axle hub on. No? Or are you saying I couldn't get it on far enough by hammer to thread the nut on there?

Do you think the rest of my plan sounds OK? (i.e. Pulling the axle hub without pulling the whole knuckle and replacing the bearing.)

I don't know what to search for when you mention a press. Do you know what it's called more exactly?

For the axle hub puller I've found:
OTC-7208A
OTC-7394
or maybe a 3 jaw puller.

Thanks!
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#10 Old 09-03-2013, 09:53 PM
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I mean a standard vertical shop press. Harbor freight has a decent 12 ton model for about $100 but it's not worth it for just a couple jobs. The hub is a press fit on the bearing, I'm not sure it can be pulled without removing the hub. I highly recommend purchasing a Chilton's manual as it will detail the entire procedure.

A puller can not be used because the axle itself is a slip fit in the hub. I don't think the hub can be driven in far enough with a mallet to get solid engagement on the axle with the nut. The knuckle is easy to pull, why not remove it and have a shop replace the shield? It cost me all of $20 to have the two races I can't remove pulled.

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#11 Old 09-03-2013, 10:49 PM
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Ah, I think I get your point. So if I put the puller on and start cranking, the axle will just push back, but the hub will still be pressed on the bearing/knuckle. Lame.

Looking in the FSM, it looks like if I want to do the job myself, I'll need a jaw puller and a bearing tool kit. Something like:

http://www.amazon.com/Alltrade-648741-Bearing-Removal-Installation/dp/B0028QGT5Y
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#12 Old 09-04-2013, 12:42 AM
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Side Note:

My '88 did not have the cooling air scoop on the back of the shield, but my '90 does.
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