Car cranks but wont start, oil pooled on tranny and all 4 plug wires melted at the pl - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

Camry 1st & 2nd Gen (1983-1986) & (1987-1991) Toyota Camry Discussion for years 1983-1986 & 1987-1991. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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post #1 of 111 Old 02-03-2017, 10:13 AM Thread Starter
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Car cranks but wont start, oil pooled on tranny and all 4 plug wires melted at the pl

Been having issues with my 88 camry. She has been slowly drinking or leaking coolant. I think she is drinking it as i dont ever see any coolant on the ground. Had tiny oil leaks, but then one day at it had overheated on a cold night in the rain it died on the freeway. Got it started about 10 mins later, drove towards my home, died again about 15 miles later. Noticed pool of oil on tranny at this point. Woulnt start for a while but tried to start. About 30 mins later she started drove for 20ish miles but would die if i let off the gas or at any stop light . Still had decent power. Then she died again and wont start at all now. No oil in distrubutor but it looks like it is either leaking from next to the dizzy at the valve cover or slightly under ut, but it looks like oil is leaking from above the head so i hope its still sealed going to test for compression once i finished digging the spark plug wires out of the spark plug hole.
Could anyone help me figure out if i blew the head gasket or if its the valve cover and tube seals or a dizzy oring. Why would all 4 plugs melt at the spark plug but be perfectly fine at my dizzy.
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post #2 of 111 Old 02-03-2017, 10:49 AM
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Welcome to TN Sorry to hear of your troubles. That doesn't sound good at all, I hope it's not the head gasket. Your compression test will tell you a lot. I am not sure about the plug wires except perhaps the oil was raising the resistance and drawing more current resulting in more heat?
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post #3 of 111 Old 02-03-2017, 10:53 AM Thread Starter
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Welcome to TN Sorry to hear of your troubles. That doesn't sound good at all, I hope it's not the head gasket. Your compression test will tell you a lot. I am not sure about the plug wires except perhaps the oil was raising the resistance and drawing more current resulting in more heat?
Well they were not covered in oil but i was wondering if somehow gas escaped past the spark plug and ruined them or if it was from the heat of the engine during the overheat but it was only 49* outside and raining so i cant see it being insanely hot.
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post #4 of 111 Old 02-03-2017, 11:02 AM
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If you have a really toasted head gasket I would think it could do that. I would think it wouldn't run worth a darn though.
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post #5 of 111 Old 02-03-2017, 11:15 PM
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Oil puddling on the transmission is usually a seal inside the distributor (NOT the one that you can see when you pull the dizzy out of the head). I've rebuilt two of them now, its not too bad if you have a vice.

Plug wires melting at the plugs could be due to the overheating. Regardless, I'd replace those first and see if it starts. Maybe pull your plugs while you're at it and inspect them.

What color is your engine oil?

1988 Camry Alltrac LE 5speed
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post #6 of 111 Old 02-07-2017, 11:33 AM Thread Starter
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Oil puddling on the transmission is usually a seal inside the distributor (NOT the one that you can see when you pull the dizzy out of the head). I've rebuilt two of them now, its not too bad if you have a vice.

Plug wires melting at the plugs could be due to the overheating. Regardless, I'd replace those first and see if it starts.
Maybe pull your plugs while you're at it and inspect them.

What color is your engine oil?
The oil actually looks like oil with no milkyness or water. Added water alot. Still working on removing spark plug 3 . Totally looks like my valve cover was leaking by the dizzy. And weirdly no oil on plugs 1 2 and 4 . Still need to test compression. Any one use itm gasket kits? Found one for my car whole engine kit 60 bucks on rock auto. Worth it?
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post #7 of 111 Old 02-10-2017, 09:06 AM Thread Starter
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post #8 of 111 Old 02-10-2017, 12:35 PM
3s-gte in a Camry?!?
 
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You need to get a real diagnosis on what is going on before buying parts.

You kept driving the car (multiple times!) after an episode of overheating. You don't drive a car after it has overheated - that's what tow trucks are for. Keep in mind that the factory water temp gauge is much more of an idiot light than a real gauge. It will stay firmly planted in the middle of the range from ~160*F to over ~220*F. By the time you see it move up from the middle, you need to shut the engine down ASAP.

So, get that spark plug out, check the compression. Pressure test the cooling system. Get a new radiator cap (the only part not tested when you pressure test the cooling system). Verify water pump and thermostat operation. Verify the timing belt is in good shape. Go through all the diagnostic steps and let us know what you find.

-Charlie
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Previous: 88 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GE BEAMS, 90 Camry 3S-GTE, 90 Camry DX
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post #9 of 111 Old 02-10-2017, 12:49 PM Thread Starter
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You need to get a real diagnosis on what is going on before buying parts.

You kept driving the car (multiple times!) after an episode of overheating. You don't drive a car after it has overheated - that's what tow trucks are for. Keep in mind that the factory water temp gauge is much more of an idiot light than a real gauge. It will stay firmly planted in the middle of the range from ~160*F to over ~220*F. By the time you see it move up from the middle, you need to shut the engine down ASAP.

So, get that spark plug out, check the compression. Pressure test the cooling system. Get a new radiator cap (the only part not tested when you pressure test the cooling system). Verify water pump and thermostat operation. Verify the timing belt is in good shape. Go through all the diagnostic steps and let us know what you find.

-Charlie
Well being i live paycheck to paycheck it was my only option. Had to go to work. Lol water pump and timing belt are 4 weeks old. So i think they work. Will be replacing thermostat and rad cap once i can. Hoping to test compression today then ill check cooling system pressure. Im pretty sure it is leaking somewhere. Or being forced into the resivour cause of a bad rad cap. The 3 plugs i took out where super black. So ill get new plugs too when i can get the wireset which is totallu destroyed now.
Im hoping its the valve cover i can see where oil made its way past the gasket. Hopefully i have compression and my car dieing was melted plugs not a head gasket.
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post #10 of 111 Old 02-10-2017, 02:00 PM
3s-gte in a Camry?!?
 
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My point is you may have caused more than a days pay worth of damage... Let's hope that's not the case!

-Charlie

89 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GTE 5spd
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Previous: 88 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GE BEAMS, 90 Camry 3S-GTE, 90 Camry DX
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post #11 of 111 Old 02-10-2017, 02:02 PM Thread Starter
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My point is you may have caused more than a days pay worth of damage... Let's hope that's not the case!

-Charlie
Which is why im hoping the head didnt blow. I dont want to tear it all down and rebuild it. Or have to take it to a machine shop for planning. So fingers crossed
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post #12 of 111 Old 02-11-2017, 01:21 PM
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Take it to a smog shop and ask them to take the exhaust probe and smell your coolant. If there's exhaust gases you'll know by then you'll have a BHG.

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post #13 of 111 Old 02-15-2017, 10:51 AM Thread Starter
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Take it to a smog shop and ask them to take the exhaust probe and smell your coolant. If there's exhaust gases you'll know by then you'll have a BHG.
I am not about to tow it to a smog shop. Like the title says it doesnt start.
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post #14 of 111 Old 02-15-2017, 09:49 PM
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Have you replaced the spark plug wires, ran a compression test, or done any other checks?

We need more information

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1988 Camry Alltrac LE 5speed
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post #15 of 111 Old 03-15-2017, 09:27 AM Thread Starter
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Update 3/15
Turned out to be a bad head gasket and a bad radiator. Replaced both. Almost got my car driving agan. I gotta set up the timing today. Must be a little bit off she cranks and tries to start but just wont catch and run. I think i am 1 or 2 teeth advanced. The piece of shit who worked on my car vefore me thought it was ok to use a damn impact on the tensioner bolt stripping it completely round. So i have to use force the belt on using the crank to turn it as i manually force it to the oil pump gear.. should be able to get it closer.
Can the distrubutors adjustment cause the car to not start start but sound like its close to starting.?
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