How to remove v6 alternator? - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

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post #1 of 14 Old 03-20-2017, 11:54 AM Thread Starter
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How to remove v6 alternator?

I'm in the process of replacing my thermostat in my ES250, which in order to do, I have to take the alternator out. I've removed all the bolts and the alternator is free, but this group of wires coming from above the timing belt is in the way! I've tried everything I can think of to move the wires around, and while there is some play, I still can't get the alternator out. I can't unplug them because they're plugged in somewhere below the alternator and seem to split in 3 different directions. Is there a trick to doing this? Does anyone have any suggestions?
20170227_151815.jpg20170227_163621.jpg20170227_163835.jpg

Also, does anyone have any idea what this orange stuff is that's leaking? The car has been sitting in the garage for about a month now without being started, and this has happened within the last week or so.
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post #2 of 14 Old 03-20-2017, 12:31 PM
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Remove the connector from the 'stat housing, unclip the plastic wire sheath from the timing belt/engine backplate. After that you'll have enough wiggle room to disconnect the wires going to the A/C compressor.

The orange stuff looks like rusty coolant. Or maybe orange coloured coolant.

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post #3 of 14 Old 03-20-2017, 12:40 PM
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That looks suspiciously like old, silty Dex-Cool.

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post #4 of 14 Old 03-20-2017, 08:53 PM
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ive had luck in loosening the bracket that the pivot adjustment is on if the alternator is being particularily tricky to remove.

looks like a coolant leak to me.

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post #5 of 14 Old 03-20-2017, 09:15 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the suggestions, I will try those and see how things go!

It does look like coolant, but I was confused by the orange color, since I drained the radiator and the coolant came out red. It was just as clean as after I flushed the system and refilled it with new Toyota coolant, so I'm not sure why this coolant would be orange. I'm replacing the thermostat in hopes that the car will stop overheating, as it has done since the radiator blew and a new radiator hasn't solved the problem.
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post #6 of 14 Old 03-21-2017, 01:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KYrac View Post
Thanks for the suggestions, I will try those and see how things go!

It does look like coolant, but I was confused by the orange color, since I drained the radiator and the coolant came out red. It was just as clean as after I flushed the system and refilled it with new Toyota coolant, so I'm not sure why this coolant would be orange. I'm replacing the thermostat in hopes that the car will stop overheating, as it has done since the radiator blew and a new radiator hasn't solved the problem.
If that doesn't work, try the glove trick to see if your 2VZ blew a head gasket. That murky orange coolant could be your red coolant with a tiny bit of oil in in. Not quite chocolate milkshake, but will get there.

Or rent a block tester, or look for bubbles in the coolant expansion tank, etc. etc.

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post #7 of 14 Old 03-21-2017, 12:03 PM
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Make sure the radiator cap is sealing correctly and holding pressure too.

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post #8 of 14 Old 03-21-2017, 02:27 PM
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"A new radiator didn't fix the problem"

I've stripped mine all the way down to the heads, and had the valves and heads remachined, installed new gaskets, etc. The head gaskets were in good shape, no leaking.

I had exactly the same problem as far as mystery overheating. Of the two main causes of overheating on the 2vz-fe 6cyl (including those which dem2527 and others were trying to get me into) were, gasses in the radiator, failure of the fans:

Air/hot gasses in the coolant system, usually after a chronic overheating caused by fan failure (correctable). This system requires a Lisle or Worthco radiator funnel kit. The funnel kit has a large capacity (around a gallon of coolant), and fits tightly with the top of your radiator. It allows you to keep the radiator fluid above the uppermost level in the engine, allowing hot air to escape, steam, and coolant to go in. The longer way around, is to fill the system:

** Fill it. Don't cap it.
** Start the engine
** When the engine has started to warm up a bit, Open the bleed bolt. It's in the back, follow the top radiator hose back to the engine, this is the hot return. There is a bolt right next to the hose connection. Open it up and you will see a little hole near the top of the threads, the bolt is hollow and those let hot coolant gasses escape.
** Keep the radiator topped up, and as the engine runs hotter and gasses escape, eventually the foamy fluid will appear, then just fluid. Close the bolt, check the level, close the radiator cap. If you had the lisle funnel kit, you would stop here.
** Overfill your reservoir.
** Drive the car a little bit, until fully hot.
** It's at this point that it's a good idea to stop and check under the hood. When your needle is getting about half-way on temp, you should see the fans operating under the hood on the radiator. If you DON'T, this is a known failure of the 2vzfe. I spoke with a woman who spent 2,000 on the suspension on her identical car, and then the engine blew up because the fans failed around 200k, just like they stopped on mine, precipitating the overheating problem secondary to fan failure. Someone familiar with correctly functioning 2vzfe fans can comment on whether they work at all at lower temps. I never had them working on mine, and there are five pages of schematics to trouble-shoot the circuit.
** IF or IF NOT the fans are operating, shut the car down in either case.
** IF the fans are NOT operating, pull A/C relay #2. The round, metal relay underneath the hood near the battery in the box with some other relays. This turns off the passenger side fan. Open and remove the glove box, and remove A14. You will see two boxes, the top one upside down with the wiring hardness connector oriented up, the other one underneath, pointed down. I think A14 is the one on the bottom. This will cause (I think it's the brown wire) to be OPEN, causing the drivers side fan to run on full. If you want to stop this fan, ground the wire. Yes, your A/C may not work for the moment, but the driver side fan will run at full speed pulling about 15 amps, and the car shouldn't overheat. I will eventually replace 5 pages of overly complex nonsense with a PVM box that directly monitors coolant temp and runs the fans at whatever speed necessary. ($150).
** Let it cool for 20-30 minutes depending on ambient temp. Keep an eye on the reservoir level, and when it starts to drop, the car's cooling system is sucking in coolant to replace the gaps. Basically, you run the engine, heat it up, let it cool and keep the reservoir topped off, and do this a few times and the car will force out all gas and fill itself.

I replaced the stock radiator with an OSC model 21 radiator. Haven't looked back since. It cools better than the stock radiator, and seems built better.

1991 Lexus ES 250 (A rebranded 91 DX Camry v6)
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Fram Ultra Syn filter X8A (same as Landcruiser, 3x capacity)
ATF&PS Chevron MD-3, 5gal/$61
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post #9 of 14 Old 03-21-2017, 03:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John M View Post
"A new radiator didn't fix the problem"

I've stripped mine all the way down to the heads, and had the valves and heads remachined, installed new gaskets, etc. The head gaskets were in good shape, no leaking.

I had exactly the same problem as far as mystery overheating. Of the two main causes of overheating on the 2vz-fe 6cyl (including those which dem2527 and others were trying to get me into) were, gasses in the radiator, failure of the fans:

Air/hot gasses in the coolant system, usually after a chronic overheating caused by fan failure (correctable). This system requires a Lisle or Worthco radiator funnel kit. The funnel kit has a large capacity (around a gallon of coolant), and fits tightly with the top of your radiator. It allows you to keep the radiator fluid above the uppermost level in the engine, allowing hot air to escape, steam, and coolant to go in. The longer way around, is to fill the system:

** Fill it. Don't cap it.
** Start the engine
** When the engine has started to warm up a bit, Open the bleed bolt. It's in the back, follow the top radiator hose back to the engine, this is the hot return. There is a bolt right next to the hose connection. Open it up and you will see a little hole near the top of the threads, the bolt is hollow and those let hot coolant gasses escape.
** Keep the radiator topped up, and as the engine runs hotter and gasses escape, eventually the foamy fluid will appear, then just fluid. Close the bolt, check the level, close the radiator cap. If you had the lisle funnel kit, you would stop here.
** Overfill your reservoir.
** Drive the car a little bit, until fully hot.
** It's at this point that it's a good idea to stop and check under the hood. When your needle is getting about half-way on temp, you should see the fans operating under the hood on the radiator. If you DON'T, this is a known failure of the 2vzfe. I spoke with a woman who spent 2,000 on the suspension on her identical car, and then the engine blew up because the fans failed around 200k, just like they stopped on mine, precipitating the overheating problem secondary to fan failure. Someone familiar with correctly functioning 2vzfe fans can comment on whether they work at all at lower temps. I never had them working on mine, and there are five pages of schematics to trouble-shoot the circuit.
** IF or IF NOT the fans are operating, shut the car down in either case.
** IF the fans are NOT operating, pull A/C relay #2. The round, metal relay underneath the hood near the battery in the box with some other relays. This turns off the passenger side fan. Open and remove the glove box, and remove A14. You will see two boxes, the top one upside down with the wiring hardness connector oriented up, the other one underneath, pointed down. I think A14 is the one on the bottom. This will cause (I think it's the brown wire) to be OPEN, causing the drivers side fan to run on full. If you want to stop this fan, ground the wire. Yes, your A/C may not work for the moment, but the driver side fan will run at full speed pulling about 15 amps, and the car shouldn't overheat. I will eventually replace 5 pages of overly complex nonsense with a PVM box that directly monitors coolant temp and runs the fans at whatever speed necessary. ($150).
** Let it cool for 20-30 minutes depending on ambient temp. Keep an eye on the reservoir level, and when it starts to drop, the car's cooling system is sucking in coolant to replace the gaps. Basically, you run the engine, heat it up, let it cool and keep the reservoir topped off, and do this a few times and the car will force out all gas and fill itself.

I replaced the stock radiator with an OSC model 21 radiator. Haven't looked back since. It cools better than the stock radiator, and seems built better.
Say, are you using this: https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-S...ct_top?ie=UTF8

I bought that, but the caps they provide don't seem to clamp to any of my Toyotas. Originally bought it for a Hemi Magnum, and the cap was loose. Wondering if it's incompatibility or defective parts...this is an exact clone of the Miller funnel kit that the Magnum's FSM calls out.

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post #10 of 14 Old 03-22-2017, 09:27 PM
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That's the funnel kit I thought about getting. No, I do not have the kit. I used the longer method. Follow the directions above.

1991 Lexus ES 250 (A rebranded 91 DX Camry v6)
Castrol Syn 0-40w, or Mobil1's 0-40w
Fram Ultra Syn filter X8A (same as Landcruiser, 3x capacity)
ATF&PS Chevron MD-3, 5gal/$61
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post #11 of 14 Old 03-22-2017, 11:29 PM Thread Starter
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John, I believe my fans are acting weird, as they don't come on when the car is idling near operating temperature, however, I have seen them operating normally so I know they work at least part of the time. If the fans don't come on, are you suggesting pulling the relay to manually turn the fan on high every time I drive the car?

When I replaced the busted radiator with an OSC model 21, I used the method you described above (tedious, but it works) and got all the air out of the system. After replacement, the car sits just below normal operating temperature while idling (at about 4 o'clock instead of 3) and a few minutes after taking it out on the road, begins to overheat and climbs into the red if I don't shut it off immediately. I'm hoping a new thermostat will fix this.

If my head gasket is toast, does anyone have a suggestion for a reliable 4 cylinder that would be relatively easy to swap in?
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post #12 of 14 Old 03-23-2017, 12:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KYrac View Post
John, I believe my fans are acting weird, as they don't come on when the car is idling near operating temperature, however, I have seen them operating normally so I know they work at least part of the time. If the fans don't come on, are you suggesting pulling the relay to manually turn the fan on high every time I drive the car?

When I replaced the busted radiator with an OSC model 21, I used the method you described above (tedious, but it works) and got all the air out of the system. After replacement, the car sits just below normal operating temperature while idling (at about 4 o'clock instead of 3) and a few minutes after taking it out on the road, begins to overheat and climbs into the red if I don't shut it off immediately. I'm hoping a new thermostat will fix this.

If my head gasket is toast, does anyone have a suggestion for a reliable 4 cylinder that would be relatively easy to swap in?
IIRC the 2VZ (well, VZ engine family as a whole) have head gasket issues (different metals, thermal expansion, yada yada. Somebody may have mentioned this up above, so sorry if I'm repeating) and rod knock (dunno why, but I've seen a lot of 2VZ and 3VZ that developed this). I don't think you'll be able to swap something in easily without also swapping the engine harness, PCM, and associated stuff. I recommend getting a gen3/4 Camry (4- or 6-cyl, both are excellent, reliable engines) and joining us in the appropriate forum

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post #13 of 14 Old 03-23-2017, 01:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KYrac View Post
If my head gasket is toast, does anyone have a suggestion for a reliable 4 cylinder that would be relatively easy to swap in?
The mounts on the frame are different, as is the transmission, wiring etc. between the 4 and 6 cylinder Camrys. It isn't an easy swap, and you'll be losing 40hp along the way... I bet it would be cheaper and easier to sell/junk your car and buy a good running 4-cylinder model, especially if you have to pay somebody to do any of the work.

(and yes, I have personally done multiple motor swaps in gen2 Camrys)

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post #14 of 14 Old 03-26-2017, 06:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by insightbrewery View Post
IIRC the 2VZ (well, VZ engine family as a whole) have head gasket issues (different metals, thermal expansion, yada yada. Somebody may have mentioned this up above, so sorry if I'm repeating) and rod knock (dunno why, but I've seen a lot of 2VZ and 3VZ that developed this). I don't think you'll be able to swap something in easily without also swapping the engine harness, PCM, and associated stuff. I recommend getting a gen3/4 Camry (4- or 6-cyl, both are excellent, reliable engines) and joining us in the appropriate forum
At this point it is safe to say most engines in these cars will have much higher risk of both these issues due to age. But sounds like either the water pump is possibly failing (unless its recently replaced) or the HG have indeed kicked it.

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