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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 02-21-2006, 09:26 PM   #1 (permalink)
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94 Axle replacement

I have a 94 camry 4 cylinder. Both axles need to be replaced. I changed the axle on my 91 but it was a pain in the butt. Just wondering how hard it was to replace axles on a 94? The dealer want $366 an axle. I'm up to doing it if it's not to much trouble but I really don't feel like spending all weekend on this.
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Old 02-21-2006, 09:30 PM   #2 (permalink)
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no...no dealor you should be able to be off for both at around 366.

i wouldn't get my hands dirty on axles
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Old 03-04-2006, 05:28 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Anyone else have any comments?
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Old 03-04-2006, 07:01 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Axles

I just did my 94 V6 last month, but I also replaced my balljoints while I was under there. Its an EASY job, a monkey could do it. You should be able to replace both axle assemblies and both ball joints yourself for the price that the dealer wants to do just one axle. This ones a no brainer.
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Old 03-04-2006, 07:39 PM   #5 (permalink)
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if you do it yourself, just make sure you torque the axle nut to specs
or you will need a new wheelbearing. im pretty sure youre going to
have to disconnect the hub, the outer tierod, strut, endlinks, lower balljoint etc.
so check the conditions of the hub, steering and front end susp assy for
replacement too. and you might as well get new tires because u'll need an alignment.
lol
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Old 03-12-2006, 07:19 AM   #6 (permalink)
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OK, the weather is starting to warm up and now I am seriously considering to attemp this myself. Anybody else done this and have any suggestions.

I used an Autozone axle on my 91 Camry. Should I just go with Autozone or should I use Original Toyota parts?
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Old 03-12-2006, 05:57 PM   #7 (permalink)
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we just replaced the axles on my 94 camry 4 cylinder...only problem we ran into was taking the old one off..after that, it was cake.
You can do it yourself if you dont mind getting dirty. We used new ones from autozone. HTH and good luck
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Old 03-12-2006, 06:03 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Thanks to all for the advice. I think I'll give a try and save myself $500 from the dealer.
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Old 03-12-2006, 09:43 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I got everything dissasembled except for the 3 nuts on the lower control arm. Had to take it to the shop after many hours of pb wrench and breaker bars. I got the axle remanufactured from napa at a price of 130 with a core price of 70 bucks. Its all set now and im lovin it...no "clap" on right turns.

If those nuts hadnt been so tight i would have been able to pull the old axle out and throw the new one in. Make sure you can undo them before you get everything else.
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Old 08-09-2006, 12:12 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Actually, You can get away with only disconnecting the Calipers/Rotors/Bracket (of course) and just disconnect strut and lower control arm from the spindle -- after you have removed these items you will be able to move the spindle enough to disconnect the drive axles.

Doing it this way meens you wont have to mess with any steering linkage and/or ball joints. To get the bottom three lower control arm to spindle nuts (actually, one nut and two bolts), you can try to stick a small bar in one of the holes in the lower control arm for leverage and it should give you a little control over the up-down movement of the LCA (thus, taking tension of the LCR and hopefully freeing the nuts)

It also can be a little tricky to get the spindle itself reconnected. What I did was connect the spindle to the LCR first. Dont try to get both of the SPINDLE-to-STRUT bolts aligned at the same time -- it will never work.

Instead, fcous on pulling the spindle and the strut toward you as this should allow you two get the bottom bolt in (If you can atleast get the holes close, you can insert a 1/4 or 3/8 extention into the holes to properly align them.) After you get the bottom use a rubber mallet or something to align the top bolt of the strut.
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