Won't crank over.....99V6

[Slocrow]

Hi all; Got a problem! After using the car for a 100 mile trip earlier in the day, I went out to use it again after a 3 hour stop and it wouldn't start. The battery had lost so much that I couldn't close the roof or raise the windows. Fortunately this happened in my drive so I dragged out the bench battery, hooked it to the car with jumpers and raised the windows, etc.
You could see the dome light was brighter during the hook up so I figured a bad original battery.
When I went to start the car it wouldn't turn over and just made a ratcheting sound like a solenoid not engaging (cacakkkkkkkkkkkk).
I figured my bench battery wasn't up to par enough to throw the starter but I rechecked around the connections and found the positive terminal really corroded under the cover.
I took an hour or so too disassemble and really clean the battery connections. The car battery was showing 12.53 volts with a good green eye and the bench battery was showing 12.2? volts when checked with my meter.
After cleaning and reassembling everything I again tried car battery only and nothing, along with the dome light being weak. I again jumped the Camry with a new deep cycle from the hotrod and again the cacakkkkkkkkkkkk sound and no turn over.
Last week while sitting it the car with both doors open, I swear my door locks were cycling on/off, on/off until I removed the key or started the car, I can't remember which.
I know it's a long scenario but I'm trying to give you all relative facts.
Any idea what could be the problem? Is it in the starting system? How can I check?Thanks, Frank

[AutoBox]

when was the last time you changed the battery?

the green eye on the battery is a hydrometer, that will only tell you how much water is in the battery and nothing else.

a battery that is about to fail/die may show a charge on a multimeter like you said, but still not have enough power to start the car.

starter assembly or a bad solenoid that varies some never go bad and some go as early as 100K. how many miles are on your car?

[toyomoho]

If I remember right, 12.2v is a low state of charge, 12.5v about 50%ish. Check the voltage between the positive and negative terminals of the battery with engine and all accessories off. Start the engine and see what volt reading you now get. If the voltage is the about the same, more or less, you may have a faulty alternator. If it jumps up to between say 13.1-15v the battery may be dieing. You could also have something electrical on the car that is drawing power (besides the clock, etc) when the engine is off. This will drain the battery.

Often a dieing battery will have enough juice to start the engine shortly after it was turned off, yet not be able to do so after a few hours. The battery can not hold a charge.

If the engine cranks over and starts fine with a jump, the starter would seem to be OK.

On the power locks, often the door switches go bad or there might be a problem with the wiring. Next time this happens, start playing with your door switches to see if this effects the situation.

A TN Camry search on these topics will result in many hits.

[Slocrow]

AutoBox asked; "when was the last time you changed the battery?"
It's the original from Jan 99.

AutoBox said; "a battery that is about to fail/die may show a charge on a multimeter..."
I agree. Just not enough oomph under a load to get the job done.

What I don't understand is why wouldn't it start with a jump? It was like the starter would not engage.

There is 65+ on the clock..........

Thanks for the in put. It sounds like you might be suggesting a bad battery. Could that mess up a jump?......Frank

[Slocrow]

toyomoho said;"If the engine cranks over and starts fine with a jump, the starter would seem to be OK."

Yep, you're correct. The problem is it won't turn over............even with a jump from a good battery. I know the connection is good because the accessories work and the lights brighten. Not to mention that big time cleaning job on the post's.
Thanks, Frank

[v-cam]

Original from 1999?

Thats 7 years old. Batterys tend to only last 4-5 years. Replace that battery first, then search out for other problems.

[AutoBox]

agreed ^ you need a new battery.

either way if you change it yourself or get someone to do it the only main things to check out seem to be the alternator and the cables. your starter sounds fine to me.

most auto parts stores offer a discounted install and a free system service check with a new battery purchase.

For example: My car battery went flatline recently. Luckily this happened one morning in my driveway, so I had tool access and could use my parents cars to go get a new battery without stalling out on the way there. Anyways drove to Sears Auto...bought a quality DieHard Gold w/ 660 CCAs from them for 89$ Took the battery home, pulled the old one, installed new battery myself avoided any labor charge. Car started right up. Drove back to the store with my old battery. They then took 10$ off my bill for recycling the old one and while I was there I got the 10$ system service check for free. They inspected my install, checked my alternator and starter with their equipment in order to honor the warrenty on the battery.

[touringcamry]

Originally Posted by AutoBox

agreed Anyways drove to Sears Auto...bought a quality DieHard Gold w/ 660 CCAs from them for 89$ Took the battery home, pulled the old one, installed new battery myself avoided any labor charge. Car started right up. Drove back to the store with my old battery. They then took 10$ off my bill for recycling the old one and while I was there I got the 10$ system service check for free.

Batteries cost that much? I got mine for $44 + $5 core charge. It has a 100 month warranty too.

[prjkt_c4mry]

that happened to me about a month ago. My battery ran out of juice at subway and i had to get my buddies to come help me out. I got a new battery and everything is running great

[Slocrow]

Hey Guys, I sincerely appreciate the good advice re a 7 year old battery and only hope it is the real problem. It's also been suggested by two of my close friends that I should replace the battery, first.
My problem is, I can't understand why the engine won't turn over, as in it doesn't move or revolve, when I slam 950CCA at it through a jump?
If it did (which I expected after cleaning the terminals & hooking the second battery in series) I'd be on my way to purchasing that new battery.
Without rotation, after connecting a second battery for a jump, I'm afraid of starting to throw parts at the problem with no clear diagnosis.

Does anyone have an explanation for the engine not rotating with a second, strong battery providing the jump and with juice apparently flowing based on accessory operation.

Thanks, Frank

[JMSinMD]

You could always go to Autozone or another parts store and get the battery there. If you take it home and it doesn't work then return it.

[v-cam]

^ Still a battery problem. A starter motor uses a huge amount of power to turn over, so your battery must be at very high levels to turn over properly.

Hook up your voltimeter to your current battery and then turn the car over. You will see that it holds 12.5 volts at normal, but as soon as you turn the key it will drop down to 3 or 4 volts. The same will probably happen to your bench battery.

Get a new battery and eliminate that first. More than likely your car will start.

[Slocrow]

V-cam; Not a bench battery the second time around. A 2 month old 950CCA fully charged and used for a jump. Not getting it done. Why????

[v-cam]

In that case, call a mobile mechanic to check it out, even if it is a buggered starter motor, you still need a new battery.

or

Remove the terminals completely from your old battery and connect them to your jump battery. Then try it out without the old battery being connected at all.

Let me know what happens

[Slocrow]

OK! I see, get the old bat out of the loop and see what happens. I'll let you know,,,,Tomorrow! It's 1:43am and I'm off to sleep ville. Thanks to one and all...Frank