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3rd & 4th Generation (19921996 & 19972001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 08-03-2006, 12:54 AM   #1 (permalink)
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4th Generation My Timing belt change (very detailed, pics) Gen 4

I decided to post my own step by step instructions for anyone wanting to change your timing belt only. These instructions are very detailed. The car in the pictures is a 2000 4 cylinder camry. First, the tools you will need are 1/2" ratchet, 3/8" ratchet, 1/4" ratchet, 10mm socket 1/4" and 3/8" drive, 12 mm socket 3/8" drive, 14mm socket 3/8" and 1/2" drive, 13/16" deep impact socket 1/2" drive, 3/4" deep impact socket 1/2" drive, about 12" of 3/8" drive extensions, needle nose pliers, hammer, harmonic balance puller (got a loaner at autozone for $15), 2 3" bolts size 6m-1.0 for the harmonic balance puller (bought at home depot), 5/8 Spark plug socket, flat head screw driver, a mirror, floor jack, and jack stands. Tools that will make the job easier are 1/2" impact wrench, 3/8" air ratchet, white marking crayon. Tell me what you think.

Step 1: Put the front of the car on jack stands.



Step 2: Remove the passengers side wheel



Step 3: Remove the two bolts circled in red and remove the side panel. Bolts are size 10.



Step 4: Remove the spark plug wires and spark plugs



Step 5: Remove the long alternator bolt circled in red. (14mm)




Step 6: Loosen the alternator bolt circled in green. Loosen the bolt circled in red enough to loosen the belt. Then take off the bolt circled in green. (I believe both are 12 mm.)



Step 7: Move the alternator to the side. My alternator was stuck so I had to use a pry bar to remove it.



Step 8: Remove the 3 bolts circled in red and take off the passengers side engine mount. (14 mm)





Step 9: Remove the bolt that should be where the red circle is. Then remove 2 more bolts at the bottom of the mount bracket where the green arrows point. Those were a bitch to take off. I long ratchet with a flex head will make it easier. Then remove the bracket. (all bolts are 14mm) Sorry, forgot to take pic of bottom bolts.




Step 10: Unclip the wires from the timing belt cover and disconnect the two ground wires.




Step 11: Remove the two bolts circled in red from the timing belt cover. (10 mm)




Step 12: Remove the left timing belt cover bolt. (10mm)




Step 13: Remove the hidden timing belt cover bolt. It is about where the red circle is. (10mm)




Step 14: Remove the uper timing belt cover. Then remove the bolt circled in red from the lower timing belt cover. (10mm) Also, loosen the power steering pump and take the belt off.





Step 15: Rotate the crank until the notch on the harmonic balance pulley is lined up with with the 0 degree mark on the timing belt cover (TDC). (Crank bolt is 3/4")



Step 16: Make sure the the hole in the camshaft pulley is lined up with the "V" notch. If it is off by 180 degrees then rotate the crankshaft one full turn and then line the notches back up.




Step 17: Remove the crank shaft pulley bolt (3/4"). An impact wrench will make it very easy to remove that bolt. Then use the harmonic balance puller to remove the harmonic balance pulley. Do not try to pry it off and do not use a standard pulley puller with arms. If you chip it, you will spend over $100 on a new one. It only costs $15 to rent one from autozone and you will get your money back when you return it.





Step 18: Remove the the 3 lower timing belt cover bolts circled in red and remove the cover. (10 mm)





Step 19: Mark the old timing belt on the crank and camshaft pulleys.




Step 20: Loosen the tensioner bolt (14mm). Pry it down to loosen the belt and tighten the tensioner bolt back down to hold the tensioner. Then take the belt off.







Step 21: Count the notches between the marks on the old belt and put the same marks on the new belt. Put the new belt on and line up the marks on the pulleys. Now tighten the tensioner. Rotate the crank clockwise 4 times and make sure the timing marks still line up on the crank and camshaft. Put the spark plugs and wires back and start the engine. If the engine runs fine, reasseble everthing in reverse order.

Last edited by JerryGiese; 10-23-2009 at 07:15 PM.
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Old 08-03-2006, 01:16 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Wow, pretty detailed write-up. Great job!

Can anyone confirm if these steps can apply to the V6 timing belt change?
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Old 08-03-2006, 05:07 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Looks really good, thanks!
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Old 08-03-2006, 08:09 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Good lord, I couldn't have taken better pictures if I tried.

You did a really good job writing this up.

I thought about doing this myself, but I've been doing so much work on the other cars lately that most of my weekends have been shot. I was planning on taking this one to the shop because of that, but now that I see how easy it is, I may be able to knock this one out in an hour or two and still have my saturday free!

The other reason I was planning on having this one done for me is because our front oil pump seal is leaking, and from the looks of your picture for step 17, yours might be too. Did you replace any of the seals in that area? If I do all the work, but I don't set the seal in the pump right, and it continues to leak, I usually get mad and throw tools because I have to do it over again, which is not good for anyone. If I took it in, I could just have them re-do it. I can do a lot of stuff, but when it comes to sealing or aligning, I don't have much confidence in that.

Thanks for the inspiration, and we appreciate your pictures.
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Old 08-03-2006, 08:18 AM   #5 (permalink)
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That was really great job..
It should be sticky. Although I would not do it myself in anycase, but it gave me very good idea of how it works.
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Old 08-03-2006, 08:23 AM   #6 (permalink)
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4th Generation

I haven't replaced any seals yet. It think the leaking is coming from the oil pan gasket. I plan on going back and replacing the seals, water pump, idler, and tensioners, but I did not have the money for all of that right now and the person that I bought it from said that the timing belt had never been changed. Since the car has 115,000 miles on it, I assumed it was on the verge of breaking. After getting the timing belt cover off, it looked so good that I neally didn't change it. I decided to post instructions because I have seen alot of not so experienced mechanics that just need to replace a broken timing belt and don't have $400 to spend on a mechanic. BTW, the total cost of this job was about $21.
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Old 08-03-2006, 08:34 AM   #7 (permalink)
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$21 is wowwwwww


But for me, if I would have to do it, it might cost me a lot more as I would have to buy a lot of tools. And because I live in apartment, and keep changing every 2 months, it is quiet hard for me to store them.
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Old 08-03-2006, 08:53 AM   #8 (permalink)
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good job

but you never mentioned to disconnect the battery?
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Old 08-03-2006, 08:58 AM   #9 (permalink)
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he disconnected the spark plug wires, thats good enough...


excellent info!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! thanks a lot for your contribution!
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Old 08-03-2006, 09:04 AM   #10 (permalink)
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damn, this is a "haynes" manual type of writeup. Even more pics and detail than haynes manual. You do take good pics man. keep it up.
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Old 08-05-2006, 08:09 PM   #11 (permalink)
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WOW , Very nice WRITE UP!!!

i'd love to try it BUT i might stuff it up hahaha.......well done!!!
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Old 08-12-2006, 11:11 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Jerry,

Great write up! Thanks!


If I may, I'd like to add some info that may help in installing the new belt:

Here is a trick to properly tension the timing belt on a 5S-FE engine (see signature block for specifics on my car):

As per the instructions in the FSM and Haynes manual, I positioned the crank at TDC and positioned the camshaft at the TDC position. However, when installing the belt, I could not get rid of some excess slack in the front of the belt (the part that runs forward from the top of the camshaft pulley to the waterpump pulley). I could not pull the belt any tighter, since the most I could pull it toward the camshaft pulley was only about half a tooth of belt length.

So, here is what I did to remedy the situation:

I pulled the belt back off of the camshaft pulley. Note that the tensioner pulley was temporarily fixed in the "loose" position, as per earlier instructions in the repair manuals. I then turned the crankshaft 5 degrees counterclockwise. It was now at 5 degrees BTDC. I then put the belt back on the camshaft pulley. The camshaft pulley was still at the TDC position.

I then rotated the crankshaft 5 degrees clockwise to TDC and checked my alignment. Voila! Spot on! The small rotation of the crankshaft had merely taken up slack in the timing belt and did not move the camshaft pulley. Just to be sure, I rotated the crank through 720 degrees and checked my alignment again. Spot on! Ever skeptical, I cranked 'er up (after setting the tensioner pulley as per the instructions) and ran the engine for a few minutes without the upper timing belt cover in place. I shut 'er down and checked the alignment again. Spot on!

Best of all, the forward portion of the timing belt was now properly tight.
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Old 08-13-2006, 08:38 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Very good write up, I see you gen4 guys are being very helpful and postig up some nice threads liek this.
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Old 08-13-2006, 08:47 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Mods, can you make this a sticky
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Old 08-13-2006, 08:18 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Added to the Camry FAQ (http://toyotanation.com/forum/t6831.html)

Step #19 is not necessary. The alignment marks are on the engine.

1. Hole in cam gear lined up to the notch on bearing cap.

2. #1 at TDC. Notch on crank pulley lined up to "0" marking on lower timing belt cover.

Or mark/notch on oil pump pulley lined up to mark/notch on oil pump.

3. Install belt.

4. Tighten tensioner bolt.

5. Rotate crank clockwise 2 full turns (720 degrees).

6. Check alignment of cam and crank (See #1 and #2).


Step #20. Loosen the tensioner bolt, then remove the spring using a pair of pliers.

I suggest replacing the spring. Its a few bucks from a Toyota dealership.


While your at it, replace the 2 accessory belts, water pump (maybe), and any seals (cam seal, oil pump, front main) that are leaking.
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