V6 timing gear removal - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
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#1 Old 08-09-2006, 11:29 PM
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3rd Generation V6 timing gear removal

New to Toyota brand after 9 yrs of Audi's and 25 prior Volvo years. I just got a 98 with the V6 and have a cam seal that is leaking; so I was going to do the timing belt, idler pulleys, cam and crank seals. I'm trying to remove the 17mm bolt that holds the cam gear on. I didn't want to remove the cam covers because those gaskets are not leaking now. I fashioned a tool to hold the timing gear out of angle iron and have 2 3/8" bolt extending out of it and into the recesses in the timing gear. I've used a breaker bar and the bolt does not want to loosen. Is it correct to assume that it is a right hand thread? Any other tricks to removing the timing gear. The rear cam seal is leaking on both cars, a 97 and 98.

Thanks for any input
Greg
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#2 Old 08-10-2006, 12:53 AM
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You say it leaks at the BACK of the cam but you want to remove the timing gear? Im a little confused, i'll just show an image of how to get the camshaft gear off (i'm assuming you mean the gear that is driven directly by the timing belt, and this is called by toyota the "Camshaft Pulley."..)



You can see the handle on the toyota SST is very long, you need some major leverage to get that pulley bolt off it would seem. If you remove the valve cover, there is a section of the camshaft you can put a wrench on to hold it while you undo this bolt -- and it shows this being done in the first drawing in the image below.

But I think you could just make another tool that would do the job. BTW i think that bolt is standard thread and not reverse threaded or anything. Its probably just tight. BTW Toyota says do NOT use timing belt tension to hold the pulley while you try to loosen this bolt...(!)

By contrast in the bottom drawing in the image below, you can see the rear camshaft seals, the half circle things in the drawing. If those are leaking, they are not so hard to change... but like i said, your post was unclear to me so here is image that shows the seals (to the left of "service bolt" there are two of them each cylinder head) as you mentioned were leaking on your engine...


Last edited by marc780; 08-10-2006 at 01:12 AM.
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#3 Old 08-10-2006, 01:05 AM
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3rd Generation timing gear removal

I want to remove the cam pulleys to replace the cam seals. the one towards the firewall is leaking. I looke at teh manuals on line and saw the holders and kind of fashioned a home made one; but it just seems like the bolt is on way too tight to remove. just wanted to verify that they are right hand threads and wondered if the have some form of Loctite on them?
TIA
Greg
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#4 Old 08-10-2006, 01:13 AM
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#5 Old 08-10-2006, 01:53 AM
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They can be very tight. I just removed mine of my engine im building up, and they reaaaly took a lot of muscle to remove. I had to you a spanner and an extention bar on the hex section of th cam to hold it. They are normal thread...left/anticw to loosen it. There shouldnt be any loctite on them. They also shouldn't technically be that tight..meaning that someone has overtightned them previous.

1988 Toyota Camry 2VZ-FE E153
1972 Ford Mustang Sprint "F" 351C-2V 4SPD
1973 Ford Mustang Mach 1 "Q" 383C-4V FMX
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#6 Old 08-10-2006, 10:00 AM
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i use a chain pipe wrench to hold the cam gear, and use the 1/2 ratchet with a 4 ft pipe bar to loose the bolt. two people job though.
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#7 Old 08-17-2006, 09:46 PM
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Exclamation

Quote:
Originally Posted by JetspeedCamry
They also shouldn't technically be that tight..meaning that someone has overtightned them previous.
FYI, the camshaft pulley nut on my old Gen 1 Camry was extremely hard to get loose. When it did finally come loose, it did so with such a mighty SNAP! that I was sure I had broken something.

Since I was the original owner of the car, I can verify that the nut was that tight from the factory.

Last edited by Digger1; 08-18-2006 at 04:21 PM.
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#8 Old 08-22-2006, 02:02 PM
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Quote:
use a chain wrench to hold the cam gear, and use the 1/2 ratchet with a 4 ft pipe bar to loose the bolt. two people job though.
Holy crap. lol

Yeah if you can pad the chain whip part with wrag or rubber piece and hold onto it. Awful tough to get an impact gun in there, maybe impossible.
I believe theres a market for someone to invent a chain whip tool but set up to fit the cam gears and with variable handle lengths for leverage.
Couple ideas here:
1. Tighten, loosen, tighten, loosen. This often works.
2. Tap tap tap the bolt with a hammer. Spray some wd-40 or whatever is close, at this bolt. Tap some more until you're bored to death then stop for a minute. And BTW pad the hammer with a rag. repeat #1.
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#9 Old 08-22-2006, 10:56 PM
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There is an access panel to the flywheel (you'll see two 10 mm bolt heads about 3 inches apart, at the base of the motor, between engine and tranny, that holds a thin sheet metal panel about 4 inches square, a millimeter or less thick). Removed, you'll see about 15 or so flywheel gear teeth.

I stuck a 2.5 or 3 mm hex key wrench between two gear teeth such that when I advanced the crankshaft pulley bolt clockwise, the hex key was wedged between the motor housing and the two teeth. I then used a 2 foot breaker bar to loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt. It's on very tight and took all my might to loosen.

My main focus was to replace the leaking water pump, so I had to remove the camshaft pullies too to access timing belt cover number 3 behind them. Before removing the timing belt, I left it and the hex key in place and loosened the camshaft pully bolts too (the belt kept the pullies stationary).

When putting her back together, I re-installed the former timing belt, put the hex key on the otherside of the flywheel access, and tightened the camshaft pullies to the recommended torque. Then I put on the new timing belt and completed the close-up.

Last edited by JCxy; 08-22-2006 at 10:59 PM.
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#10 Old 08-22-2006, 11:15 PM
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JC good post, it worked for you! But what i hear you saying is used timing belt tension to remove the cam pulleys. Which toyota says is a no no, will you please explain -
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#11 Old 08-22-2006, 11:48 PM
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Yes- I used the old timing belt to counter-balance the camshaft pullies so they wouldn't move when I loosened their attachment bolts. I didn't have the SST listed in the 1MZ-FE manual, and a trip to Sears and Advance didn't turn-up a suitable spanner wrench. The hex key kept the crankshaft from moving counter-clockwise, and the belt kept the camshafts from moving counter-clockwise.

I read that moving the engine counter-clockwise is a no-no, but the camshaft pullies on this engine are torqued at 65 and 94 foot-pounds, so it seemed unlikely (my logic anyway) I'd break the timing belt loosening these bolts (and then turn the camshaft backwards after if it broke). It didn't take much effort to loosen them (in contrast to the crankshaft bolt). That said, I would have preferred having the proper tool, since it would have saved me intalling the timing belt twice (once with the old to tighten the pulleys back to 94 and 65 pounds, and again with the new belt- I got lots of practice installing the tensioner
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#12 Old 12-03-2006, 09:08 PM
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guys, I am fighting this exact same problem. I have already removed the timing belt of the pulleys. Two people tried this holding the camshaft with a wrench and 17 mm torque wrench on the pulleys but in vain. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Mine is a 93 Camry V6 LE (3VZFE), doing a head gasket job. So, you can see I have a long way to go.

Last edited by hbasavar; 12-03-2006 at 09:09 PM.
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#13 Old 12-03-2006, 11:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marc780
Holy crap. lol

Yeah if you can pad the chain whip part with wrag or rubber piece and hold onto it. Awful tough to get an impact gun in there, maybe impossible.
I believe theres a market for someone to invent a chain whip tool but set up to fit the cam gears and with variable handle lengths for leverage.
Couple ideas here:
1. Tighten, loosen, tighten, loosen. This often works.
2. Tap tap tap the bolt with a hammer. Spray some wd-40 or whatever is close, at this bolt. Tap some more until you're bored to death then stop for a minute. And BTW pad the hammer with a rag. repeat #1.
the 24" pipe chain wrench i used is $9.99 from www.harborfreight.com http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=42717,
cut the old timing belt if you are replacing with a new one, and use the old timing belt as padding on cam gear so the chain don't damage the gear teeth, and use another ratchet socket on the cam gear bolt. works perfectly fine for me many times.
this method can also work to hold the crankshaft polley when loosen or tighten the bolt

Last edited by bronzemaxell; 12-03-2006 at 11:05 PM.
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#14 Old 12-03-2006, 11:05 PM
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#15 Old 12-04-2006, 01:33 PM
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Cool

Quote:
Originally Posted by hbasavar
guys, I am fighting this exact same problem. I have already removed the timing belt of the pulleys. Two people tried this holding the camshaft with a wrench and 17 mm torque wrench on the pulleys but in vain. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Mine is a 93 Camry V6 LE (3VZFE), doing a head gasket job. So, you can see I have a long way to go.
The Camshafts have a keyed hex shape on them. Take your valve covers off, put a large wrench on them & gently bind them into the 1/2" thick aluminum head. This will hold the heads in place while you remove the bolt. To install the bolt, bind the other one.

Easy breezy.
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