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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 08-25-2006, 10:10 PM   #1 (permalink)
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3rd Generation Engine went Bang now runs very rough

Today while my son was driving his '96 Camry 4 cyl (5SFE) home from his first week at college the engine made a loud bang sound, he kept driving but the car would not go over 45 mph after about another mile it died completely. Now it will start, run very rough, and the oil light is flickering at idle, oil lights goes off on reving. It has now been towed to an independant garage, anyone have any guess on what they will find?

Thanks Ike

p.s. the car had been running at highway speed for about 1.5 hours when this happend, water pump and timing belt replaced 3 months ago.
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Old 08-26-2006, 04:44 AM   #2 (permalink)
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id would check the oil level and pressure, since the oil light comes on. they will check out your oil pump if pressure is low at idle.

whats the milage on the vehicle?

in my case, my oil pump was still okay(slightly w/in spec) after 213k miles(5sfe) but im havin it replaced. however it had a good oil level history.

not sure the "bang" is caused by, it could be numerous of things.
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Old 08-26-2006, 11:23 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Oil level is normal, oil was changed just 2 weeks ago, still looks normal, no visible metal shavings, etc. Current mileage is around 107,000.

Ike
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Old 08-26-2006, 02:00 PM   #4 (permalink)
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It sounds like you had a backfire the cause of which is likely evidenced by the continued poor performance. The oil light may be flickering because it is now idling very low. It's possible the coil is shorting out or there is a problem within the distributor. Pull the cap and see what you have.
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Old 08-26-2006, 02:14 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Here are the very first two things i would do:

1. Check the oil pressure! I think it is possible the oil light may be flickering due to the engine's sputtering at idle, so the oil pressure fluctuates between normal and zero?

2. (Loud bang from engine = of course not a good thing, maybe a valve or piston broke somehow...), next, do a compression check on all the cylinders! You can buy a cheapo compression gauge from Harbor freight or someplace, cheaper than you will pay to have it done, if you are mechanically inclined at all (i.e. you change your own spark plugs) you can do the compression check. And the range you are looking for is from 145psi (bare minimum) to like 180 i think (someone help with the exact figures on this engine)?.

3. If compression is low, on one or more cylinders this engine needs internal work most likely - sorry

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Old 08-26-2006, 04:19 PM   #6 (permalink)
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do what mark780 said.

you might have spun a rod bearing or bent a rod, you sai it runs rough but does it make a clanking noise with it?
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Old 08-26-2006, 05:20 PM   #7 (permalink)
JUST RE ENGINEER IT
 
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motor time
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Old 08-26-2006, 06:55 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Thanks for all the help so far, I too am suspecting it is new engine time, hopefully we will know more monday when the shop it was towed to opens. I have been trying to find some information on these cars online, and would like your thoughts and corrections to the information and options of engine swap. 1st it appears the 1996 model was a one off year with the 5SFE being produced in 3 varieties, 92-95 version 96 only and 97-01, I assume this makes the '96 verison hard to find, therefore I would like to ask which is easier to retrofit the 92-95 version or the 97-01? Also what is unique about the '96 model? I have also seen ads on ebay, etc selling the 3SFE (a 2.0 liter import engine they claim is drop in compatible with the 5SFE for as little as $500 used), any thoughts? Remember this car is a basic "first car" mainly for comuter use to and from college on the weekends. Either way I go I will have the work done by an independant shop, although I usually do all my own automotive work, I simply don't have enough free time to tackle it myself.

Thanks again Ike
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Old 08-27-2006, 01:50 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Isaac my friend, in my experience, go for the very closest to whats in there, or it might be too much work - the engine people will know as long as you have the VIn.
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Old 08-27-2006, 12:28 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I have an update on the symptoms, while driving my son back to school today, I stopped off at the shop it was towed to and tried starting the car to hear for myself what it is doing. First off the engine cranked up on the first try, it is idling low running only slightly rough now, however something is obviously dragging it down, there was no belt slippage sounds. There is also a clack clack sound about 1 - 2 times per second at low idle. The oil light did not come on, but I only ran it for about 30 seconds. I am wondering if the problem may be a bad oil pump that is seizing up, any other thoughts?

Thanks Ike
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Old 08-27-2006, 01:25 PM   #11 (permalink)
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if the engine is idling too low, it will be rough. check belt tension and crankshaft pulley (my crank pulley failed on my 5sfe). do a seafoam treatment, it may help out the rough idle, it helped mine tremendously.

the clack clack sound..... i dont think anyone on this board can diagnose the problem.

for the sake of safety, check your oil pressure. since you have a good history of oil level, id doubt ur pump is failing on you. my 5sfe had 213k miles and the oil pump spec just barely under .001" w/in spec.

good luck
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