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Old 09-04-2006, 04:34 PM   #1 (permalink)
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3rd Generation Valve Cover Leak

I have a 93 XLE w/V6 and 187k miles and the valve covers are leaking. Searched the forum and read a lot about oil leaks, but didn't find anything about advice on how to get to the back valve cover. Anybody had any experience replacing the back valve cover? And what else would be beneficial to have done if I attempt this myself. I don't see a way to get to the cover without taking all kinds of air intake parts. It was hard enough to get to the spare plugs when I replaced them a few years ago. Any advice would be appreciated.

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Old 09-04-2006, 04:53 PM   #2 (permalink)
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just did this. you have to pull the upper intake manifold. the spark plug tube seals are the devil to get out. you need to lube them with oil when you are reinstalling them and you need to drive them in with a driver. when reinstalling the valve cover gaskets, you need to apply sealer in the factory locations by the cam humps. be VERY careful when retightening the valve covers. inch pounds my friend. they are very prone to cracking. it's a few hour job but its fairly simple. the longest part is removing the upper intake and cleaning it and the valve covers. remember to grab a new intake gasket. if you need more detailed advice, just ask.
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Old 09-04-2006, 05:07 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks for the reply and advice mazdaverx7. I'll let you know if I need any advice.
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Old 09-04-2006, 05:17 PM   #4 (permalink)
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no problem man. like i said, if you need the advice ask. i'd even pm you my number and i'll explain in detail on how to do it.
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Old 09-05-2006, 12:38 AM   #5 (permalink)
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not sure if the 3vz is like the 1mz setup, but the biggest problem i had was moving the rear engine harness out of the way...beyond that, it just takes a bit of time ot get to the rear cover

oh, and if you are looking at the shop manual, don't follow the torque listing for putting the bolts back on. I think they list it as 69inft, but following that using a torque wrench, I snapped two bolts on my front cover- I was lucky that it wasn't the rear bank where it would be damn impossible to drill them out
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Old 09-05-2006, 07:39 AM   #6 (permalink)
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yes, the rear bank harness is a pain in the taint to move and work around. there are two studs sticking up that the harness affixes to and lifting the harness over the studs and keeping it out of your working way is frustrating at times.
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Old 09-05-2006, 07:46 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I broke a valve cover . Somehow I read the torque specs as 51 ft/lbs.
The dealer wanted like approx $230 but I got a junkyard spec for $35.

The back cover is the absolute bitch, plan an afternoon around this. Eat lunch early.

I recommend getting the metal gasket for the intake since you are there.
Do the plugs and change the plug cables if they are old.
I also did the distributor cap and rotor arm since I figured I was there.

If you are not leaking from the sparkplug tubes, don't change the gaskets out.
Unnecessary frustration.
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Old 09-05-2006, 08:43 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Thanks for the replies. What torques spec. would you recommend?
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Old 09-05-2006, 10:19 PM   #9 (permalink)
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the reccomended torque is 52 INCH pounds. please do not go over that, you will crack the valve cover. i know from cracking one myself.
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Old 09-05-2006, 10:40 PM   #10 (permalink)
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if you really want to be careful as well, pick up new valve cover bolts as well, since the old ones with the crush washers will be all compressed and even with the factory torque specs, you can still snap the bolts
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