Brake Job Totural

[Pimpinda93camry]

The first thing you need to do is buy the brake pads.

The tools required:
Jack
Jack Stand
Bunggee Cord or machinics wire
a ratchet or wrench of the 14mm in size
C-clamp or large screwdriver or brake caliper piston pusher
21mm lug wrench Or a Torque wrench


The first thing to do is to set parking brake and block wheels,
Just brake loose the lug nuts
Next jack up on The Pinch weld or sub frame
Support car with jack stand, Repeat on other side.
Remove the lug nuts and take off wheel.
Next If you are using the screwdrive to push back piston place tip of screwdriver in the slot on caliper. pry the rotor so the caliper piston is pushed all the way into the caliper.
Next take you 14mm wrench or socket and loosen the two bolts on the top adn bottom of the caliper.
then the caliper should just slide off
Next take off the two spring clips adn save.
Then pull out on the pads Noting how each pad is placed.
Take the new pad and place in the same postion that the old ones came off.
if you ar using a caliper spreader or c-clamp: take one of the old pads and place in front of the ring of the piston. and push with the spreader in on the piston adn if you are using a c-clamp tighten the clamp so the piston is pushed back in to the caliper.
Now replace the spring clips in the origanal location and place the piston back into the origanal positon too.
Now take the two 14mm bolts adn replace back into the caliper adn tighten to 26 ft lb or to a good snug tightness.
replace wheel and repeat on other side.
let the car down. before moveing pupm the brakes to a normal feel. now slowyl move adn hit the brakes. to test if it is going to stop.
now you can break in the breaks. do a light stop. and then continue with progressively harder stops. then let cool.
then repeat a few times. now you have successfully completed a brake job.



Now to replace rotors do everything up untill you start to put the pads in and you will have to remove the caliper mount bolts. They are very tight adn when you put them back to geather they need to be very tight also.
when you have the Bolts undone(i dont' know off hand which size they are, and you will need a breaker bar to get them undone) remove braket adn pull off rotors.
Replace with new but to remember to rmove coating with brake clean or laquer thinner.
some people like to "scuff" the rotors to pefent a pull but if this is done incorrectly it can cause a pull.
I don't recomend to "scuff" rotors. Replace new rotors on car and tighten bolts adn then proceed as instructed above.

Sorry i dont have pictures but i just have gotten done my when i though to write it up. adn it is dark out now. so if some you you guys or girls have picture for the inexperienced person i would greatly appriate it.
I did this write up for the people who are intrested in doing ther own brake job and wondered who hard it will be.

I did my brake job in 30 minutes and the pads cost me 15.48 from fedarated autoparts.
so for a new person to car adn some basic hand tools they can save them self some good money.

For example pep boys charge 90 dollars for front brake job. do if you would haev went to pep boys you have spent 75 dollars more then you have to.

PS this information is on a gen 3 4clyc car but most cars are the same.

[Mike Gerber]

The 2 bolts that hold the caliper mounting bracket on (Toyota calls the caliper mounting bracket a "torque plate" in their manuals) have 17MM heads.

Mike

[Digger1]

Pimp,

Thanks for the write up....it will probably help someone some day.

I'd like to add that a brake job is a good time to remove the caliper slide-pins, clean them up, clean the holes they slide into, and re-lube. Use a high-temp brake grease.

[binkyjoe]

Thanks Pimp - your directions got me through my first solo brake job. I had a friend show me about four years ago, but it was good to have instructions again.

And I took some photos along the way, in case they'd help someone else out. (A noob could totally do their own brakes - seriously.)

This is a front brake pad replacement on a gen3 (1995) Camry.

When you take the wheel off, this is what you'll see (I started with the right front):


Use your 14mm socket wrench to loosen the bolts in the back, and take them out:


I rested the caliper on top of the assembly...


Then you pull the little clips off, take the old pads out, and put the new pads in place:


To push the piston back into its housing (which is the only way you'll get the caliper back on), I put an old pad against the piston, and used a carpenter's clamp to do the work (it's what I had available, thanks to a neighbor...):


Then, like Pimp said, just reverse the process: put the caliper back on, and tighten your bolts. Don't worry that the caliper feels loose - it's because the piston isn't engaged yet. Put your wheel back on, and do the other side. Then, get in the car and pump the brake pedal until it feels solid again.

And of course, drive like a grandma for a while (if not all the time; better mileage, eh?)

Enjoy the money you just saved!

[mylesoc]

Hi:

I have my wheel off, and have removed the 2 caliper bolts. I can remove and replace my brake pads, but it seems like I have to loosten the nut in the center of the rotor to remove it (it's behind a cotter pin and bolt protector). I think this also exposes the front bearing (end of the CV drive shaft?).

Just wondering if anyone is familiar w/ this '95 camry front brake assembly, and what is the size in mm for that bolt. Didn't quite have one big enough in my set (guessing it's 30mm or more).

Anyone know what I'm getting into, and what size socket I need to buy for that bolt?

thanks,
Myles

[masteryota1]

wow, wish there were photos for this. after finally doing the oil change, and minor interior things. I want to do something that will really save me money like this

[binkyjoe]

Sorry, all... I guess my pics got moved at some point when I switched hosting companies. Let's try that again:

#1: When you take the wheel off, this is what you'll see (I started with the right front):



#2: Use your 14mm socket wrench to loosen the bolts in the back, and take them out:



#3: I rested the caliper on top of the assembly...



#4: Then you pull the little clips off, take the old pads out, and put the new pads in place:


#5: To push the piston back into its housing (which is the only way you'll get the caliper back on), I put an old pad against the piston, and used a carpenter's clamp to do the work (it's what I had available, thanks to a neighbor...):



And there you go. Do the other side, then pump your brakes until they feel normal again.

And if anyone has a trick to getting the rear drums off, let me know; mine are more tight than, well, you get the picture.

[ghettosled]

Originally Posted by mylesoc

Hi:

I have my wheel off, and have removed the 2 caliper bolts. I can remove and replace my brake pads, but it seems like I have to loosten the nut in the center of the rotor to remove it (it's behind a cotter pin and bolt protector). I think this also exposes the front bearing (end of the CV drive shaft?).

Just wondering if anyone is familiar w/ this '95 camry front brake assembly, and what is the size in mm for that bolt. Didn't quite have one big enough in my set (guessing it's 30mm or more).

Anyone know what I'm getting into, and what size socket I need to buy for that bolt?

thanks,
Myles

do not remove the axle nut to replace the brake rotor! you will have to remove the metal bracket the brake pads rest on. there are two large bolts on the backside. once that is removed, the only thing holding the rotor in place is rust. use a gear puller, hammer or prybar to break that rust bond to remove the rotor. before you slide the new rotor or resurfaced rotor in place, throughly clean the mating surfaces to ensure a flush fit.

[donbryce]

Originally Posted by binkyjoe

And if anyone has a trick to getting the rear drums off, let me know; mine are more tight than, well, you get the picture.

In one of your pictures, you can see 2 holes in the face of the disc/rotor hub. I'm fairly sure the fronts are the same as the rears. These are threaded. I'm not sure of the exact size, but to remove my rears, I found 2 metric bolts that fit and turned them in to easily force the drum part away from the hub. The fronts should work the same way.

Fronts and rears tend to rust up around the flange of the hub. The rears develop a rust ring around the inner part of the parking brake shoe contact area that will catch the edge of the shoes and make getting the disc off really hard. The shoes will want to come out with the rotor. It took me an hour to get each one off, even with the adjusters fully retracted. Lots of prying behind with a screwdriver, swearing, pushing in and out, more swearing.....they will come off though, watch out for the shoe holding springs that pop off and get wedged into the bottom of the parking brake assembly.

BTW, my '96 front and rear calipers have a bolt that comes out and you just swing the part of the caliper that holds the shoes up and replace them.

[Mike Gerber]

"These are threaded. I'm not sure of the exact size"

M8 X 1.25 thread pitch. I use bolts that are about 2 inches in length.

Mike

[cory30189]

do those little spring clips have to go back in the pads or can they be left out? I have an 09 camry with a brake noise after i put the new pads on and i wanna leave those clips out cause they are a pain in the rear for me cause they kept flying out.