3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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I have a 93 Camry 3.0 V-6 with over 192k. GREAT CAR that I plan on going to 250k. One problem. It has a hydraulic motor radiator fan assembly and the fan runs all the time at a very high rpm and sounds much like a small jet engine. There isn't any difference between when the car is cold and idling or when it is warm and running. This problem started at around 175k. Is there a fix aside from replacing the complete motor and fan assembly, $$$$!!!! Or does anyone have a salvaged one that they want taken off their hands.
Go here...http://oregonstate.edu/~tongt/camry/index.html
Download the manual. It's aa PDF so use search for fan. It will lead you to the section on the hydraulic cooling fan. Should be some useful info in there.
FWIW
YMMV
Download the Gen_3, 1MZ-FE (V6) engine section, info starts about page 345.
The fan system has various sensors for coolant temp and A/C overpressure. The fan is controlled by a solenoid valve. One of these items could be defective resulting in the fan operating all the time. The system may be designed to run continuously if s a component fails.
it's not likely the hydraulic motor itself since it just responds to the pressure it is fed and turns. I think it's pretty reliable.
Check the coolant temp sensor and its wiring harness for this which is mounted on the water inlet housing down near the thermostat on this engine. (A bitch to get to)
As well, you may want to locate the solenoid near the power steering pump and disconnect it temporarily to see if it stops the fan. If it doesn't, it's probably stuck open. If it does, then you will need to trace back to the Fan ECU and its inputs to see what is going on.
The best manual for you is the 1993 Lexus ES300 which describes the hydraulic fan stuff in intricate detail. See the 'Engine.pdf', specifically the '62coolantc.pdf' subsection starting on pg. 265.
The fan ECU is actually pretty easy to get to... a phillips screw driver and a 10mm socket and you can pull the glove box out and get right to the ECU (it's a small box the size of a pack of cigarettes on the right side of the hole for the glove box once you get it out).
The PDFs should include some wiring information about the ECU, and you can check voltages directly while it's running to see what's sending signals and what the ECU is sending in response. A volt meter across the blue/white and blue/yellow wires on the wire harness showed me that I was getting VERY consistent water temp (about 2V) regardless of driving conditions, so the cooling system is doing its job. Checking the ECU output to the solenoid (I think it's the yellow and yellow/blue wires), I saw it started out a 0V, but then started turning on the fan at idle with about 4V. After driving for awhile, it would start kicking up to 7 or 8V and it sounded like a jet.
The ECU takes signal in from the water temperature, the A/C overpressure switch, and a line in from another ECU. I jumpered the A/C overpressure switch so it was consistent, and the car's fan acted a lot more normal... it still varied (which indicates that the other ECU's signal must vary with engine conditions), but it didn't sound quite like the Harrier it resembled before. I am wondering now if this switch needs to be replaced...
From a troubleshooting perspective, the more you can dig into it for first-hand data (volts and such) the clearer the answers become.
Good luck!
Last edited by RodMillenFan; 07-04-2007 at 11:01 PM.
The fan ECU is actually pretty easy to get to... a phillips screw driver and a 10mm socket and you can pull the glove box out and get right to the ECU (it's a small box the size of a pack of cigarettes on the right side of the hole for the glove box once you get it out).
The PDFs should include some wiring information about the ECU, and you can check voltages directly while it's running to see what's sending signals and what the ECU is sending in response. A volt meter across the blue/white and blue/yellow wires on the wire harness showed me that I was getting VERY consistent water temp (about 2V) regardless of driving conditions, so the cooling system is doing its job. Checking the ECU output to the solenoid (I think it's the yellow and yellow/blue wires), I saw it started out a 0V, but then started turning on the fan at idle with about 4V. After driving for awhile, it would start kicking up to 7 or 8V and it sounded like a jet.
The ECU takes signal in from the water temperature, the A/C overpressure switch, and a line in from another ECU. I jumpered the A/C overpressure switch so it was consistent, and the car's fan acted a lot more normal... it still varied (which indicates that the other ECU's signal must vary with engine conditions), but it didn't sound quite like the Harrier it resembled before. I am wondering now if this switch needs to be replaced...
From a troubleshooting perspective, the more you can dig into it for first-hand data (volts and such) the clearer the answers become.
Good luck!
Did you ever find out what causes the roaring sound from the fan? Mine does this periodically, and when it does roar, I can feel a slight load put on the engine. Any clues?
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-My baby- 111K - Slightly modded 3VZ-FE - Denso Iridium plugs/Vitek Wires - KYB Struts & Mounts - Whiteline RSB
well its definetly a rare breed. Sorry to hear that i know youll miss it.
Linear Mode
