3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Hi all, I've got a '95 camry I4 120k miles 5SE. Noticed a small oil leak from around block but always had enough oil in pan so didn't worry too much. Traced it to oil cooler. Went to dealership bought o-ring and gasket and put them in. Started engine to look for leaks. After about 20 seconds had a higher pressure leak from bottom of cooler. Thought gaskets might've been off so re-set them and cranked harder on retaining nut. Same thing: high pressure leak from bottom edge.
I checked out the spring loaded oil relief valve and it was toward the top of the holder. Is that normal or do i need to replace it? Or do i need to torque the crap out of retaining nut, which was on pretty tight to begin with, beyond how i found it in first place?
It was coming out fast not a spray but definitely under pressure. I seated it twice on the mount and looked around the perimeter to make sure gasket was on accurately so i'm guessing that's not the prob. Btw when i pulled the cooler off there was no sign of any of the two original gaskets/o-rings. I haven't come across a spec for how much to torque down the bolt so i'm guessing it's not critical the way a head gasket would be.
Down load the service info for the 5-SFE engine from the link below. There is a small section on install/removing the oil cooler parts. There was something about using a rod to push on the relief valve and test it, it should move up and be spring loaded (push from the bottom/opposite end of the nut). The large nut/relief valve should be torqued to 58 ft-lbs
I am looking the the manual, heck the Head gasket job is so intense, you have to tear the whole thing down..........maybe time to sell the GEN 3.......cry...cry...cry....
After resetting the o-ring on bottom of oil cooler and tightening to spec with torque wrench there was no leak. Also tightend spark plug nuts at this time.
Looked at oil cooler this morning and leak had come back. How can a leak come back after fixed? I have noticed vibrations in car after putting on new motor mounts. Could new motor mounts (not oem) be causing oil cooler gasket and spark plug nuts to shake loose? Is this small leak causing enough to jeopardize oil pressure and cause starvation to top end? Or do i let motor mounts "break in" and go from there?
The I4 engine has always vibrated a little. Are you sure the oil is coming from the oil cooler setup? Did you torque the fitting down with a torque wrench to get the max squeeze?
When installing the spark plug nuts, continue to torque them down until the torque value stabilizes.
i can see it slowly spurting from around the 11 o'clock area underneath oil cooler. I checked the spring thing in oil cooler relief and its good; torqued nut to 53 ft/lbs; and torqued spark plug nuts until all under spec. Like i said in earler post, i had the gasket on without leaks and it re-occurred. Is there a blockage upstream that's raising oil pressure at this weak point and causing leak or did gasket "sllip" and start leak again?
How much will this leak lower oil pressure? Enough to screw me or can i wait til weather gets a little better to deal with it? Thanks
After driving around for a week with a visible oil leak from oil cooler, i pulled it off the block and tried to get the relief hoses off as well. Those suckers won't budge even with liquid wrench on them. I thought about just cutting the lines and pulling it out to check bottom side of cooler but the prospect of putting new lines on seemed like too big a job. So, in the course of messing with it i found some of the original o-ring broken and crammed into bottom side of cooler. Pulled it out put new one on and so far so good.
I'm a bit of a noob so anyone who does this job make sure you pull old one out because it will not seat properly unless you do. Hope someone else can use this
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