3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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Anyone ever have any luck replacing the front camshaft seal on the 2.2L 5S-FE? I'm working on a timing belt change on a '94 LE and am trying to plug all my oil leaks while I have the car apart. I've attached a picture below. The problem is, there is no room to drive the new seal in, since the strut tower is 4 inches away. A 36mm socket would work great if there was room for a hammer. My only thought is to use a crowbar and socket and try to push it in by levering off the strut tower. I have doubts that this method will ever get the seal flush.
I'm trying to pull that same camshaft out and can't. It's F'n stuck. I took the cover off and everything, and got down to the belt, but the Cam Gear won't come off. In order to take that camshaft out, you need to get the camgear off then pull the backing metal cover behind that (up against the engine). I assume a breaker bar would do it, but I don't have the correct socket sizes. Goodluck
I used a large crescent wrench to hold the intake cam while going after the sprocket bolt with a long 14mm box end wrench. You have to take the valve cover off to hold the cam. In the picutre, the valvecover is on, but it's just sitting there to keep crap out.
Last edited by gonesurfing; 01-21-2007 at 05:24 PM.
i just replaced this seal a couple weeks ago. i ended up using a large prybar to slowly work in each side of the new seal untill it was all of the way in. it was a PIA, but it did work.
BTW, i was able to remove the cam gear bolt by leaving the timing belt on. that gave enough resistance to hold the gear from turning to remove the bolt.
BTW, i was able to remove the cam gear bolt by leaving the timing belt on. that gave enough resistance to hold the gear from turning to remove the bolt.
I made a seal driver on a lathe that holds the seal square with the camshaft and uses the sprocket bolt to press the seal in. It worked perfectly. No hammers, prybars or cussing required.
You can try finding some tubing and/or flatwashers with correct dimensions to use the same way I did and maybe even use the sprocket to press seal in using bolt.
I also made drivers for oil pump seal and crank seal. I am a machinist so these were easy for me to make.
While you are in there I'd replace the o ring behind oil pump cover along with every other seal you can get to. Also, water pump if you haven't done so already. I just did this to my 97 with 178K on the clock.
One more question. Has anyone ever taken the bearing cap off the intake cam to reseal it? Since I have the seal out, I'd like to take it off so I can apply RTV around the edges (Haynes manual recommends). Problem is, it is very stuck. Tried genly tapping with rubber mallet and also tried genly prying with a screwdriver in the bolt holes. I'd rather not have to take the cam out. Should I worry about resealing this bearing cap, or should I just press a new seal in and move on?
I doubt if oil is leaking from between the bearing cap and head, and would leave it alone. Normally resealing this area is only done when the cam is removed. To install the cam seal, I want the way Osheen suggested. Don't try to hammer it in, use a pry bar or some other method you have some control over when working in this limited area.
I tried to insert the new seal by first lubricating with a little oil and then I put on the sprocket and tightened the bolt...it slightly damaged the outside of the seal...I had better get another one...I think Ill make a seal driver like osheen did above with the new one...5 + years ago...any of you guys still on here? I am also wondering about sorting out all of the water pump/oil pump/timing cover bolts...I had them sorted out and accidently knocked something onto the table they were on...yeah I know what its sounds like...oh well it is what it is any help with some type of diagram would help...or maybe a suicide hotline Lol! Just kidding
I dont understand why you guys just dont take the camshaft cap off the head right behind the camshaft gear?
That's how ive always changed my gasket for the camshaft seal on the 5sfe, and it doesn't leak every time i do it.
Just use a 10mm socket, break the bolts loose, remove them, stick a screw driver down the bolt hole and pry to the side (removing the cap). The camshaft gasket will slide right out, then apply a little oil or grease on the center of the seal and slide over, apply a small amount of sealant to the cap (making sure to not cover the Oiler channel) and re-install bolts.
Someone mentioned this earlier, i just dont understand why you guys go through all the trouble of trying to drive the seal into there when you can just remove two bolts from the cap and its done?
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