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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 02-14-2007, 03:29 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Smile Got new Rotors and brake pads!!

Hye everyone, yesterday I got four brand new rotors and ceramic brakes for my 1998 Camry, I paid about $165 for the parts and an extra $80 for labor. My previous front rotors were so bad that the mechanic said that I was lucky not to have been in an accident by rear ending someone. One thing I wanted to point out was that before the new brakes were installed, my entire front of the car would shake under braking either heavy or light and also, the steering and the front of the car would shake at highway speeds which at first I thought was because of wheel balancing but I found out after the new rotors and brakes were installed that it was because of my uneven rotor wear that my front end was shaking. I am soooo happy to have gotton this service done because before this my car would not even start to slow down unless I had the brake pedal half way down ...I know that was NOT safe at all...stupid me....but unfortunately I didnt even have money to get the brakes changed ...anyhow....the brakes feel alive now of course...but my mechanic said that the brake pedal would feel a little soft but I have to drive the car for a couple of hundred miles before I achieve full breaking performance. I just wanted to share with you guys and if anyone who has bad rotors is thinking that their car is shaking at high speeds because of wheel balancing...I would recommend that you get new rotors and that might fix the problem
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Old 02-14-2007, 04:11 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I recently got my brakes replaced to, but mine werent that close to dead so I didnt notice much of a difference.
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Old 02-14-2007, 06:15 PM   #3 (permalink)
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The shaking was caused by Warped Rotors. As the Caliper (and pads) press onto a warped rotor, it pushes back and fourth. Like if you look at an old warped record (an actual, old, plastic record), and see the record player needle bouncing. Best way I can think to describe it.
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Old 02-14-2007, 06:24 PM   #4 (permalink)
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annnnnd...that comes from too much heat getting to the rotor, that also produces glazing of the pads, and isnt good for braking performance, the pads, or the rotors! please....dont ride the brake, or hold the brake (decelerating, i.e.-down a long hill) for long periods of time.
the warped rotors are easy to find, as the car only viberates while braking, wheel/tire balance is a vibration all the time...usually when going highway speeds.

glad youre safe now!
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Old 02-14-2007, 08:34 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ASG14
The shaking was caused by Warped Rotors. As the Caliper (and pads) press onto a warped rotor, it pushes back and fourth. Like if you look at an old warped record (an actual, old, plastic record), and see the record player needle bouncing. Best way I can think to describe it.
yep thats exactly what was going on with my car....it was horrible
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Old 02-14-2007, 08:38 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Axel Kain
annnnnd...that comes from too much heat getting to the rotor, that also produces glazing of the pads, and isnt good for braking performance, the pads, or the rotors! please....dont ride the brake, or hold the brake (decelerating, i.e.-down a long hill) for long periods of time.
the warped rotors are easy to find, as the car only viberates while braking, wheel/tire balance is a vibration all the time...usually when going highway speeds.

glad youre safe now!
yeah man I never ride my brakes.....I always shift my car into a lower gear and use the engine to slow the car down for me....but yeah...I know the difference between the two different kinds of vibration....I dont think I was clear enough in my post.....but yeah I am safe now...thanks
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Old 02-15-2007, 09:24 AM   #7 (permalink)
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yeah man I never ride my brakes.....I always shift my car into a lower gear and use the engine to slow the car down for me...


Just a bit of friendly advice. Stop using the engine and transmission to slow the car. These are expensive components to repair or replace. Use your brakes. That's what they were designed for and are relatively cheap.

Mike
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Old 02-15-2007, 09:32 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Gerber
yeah man I never ride my brakes.....I always shift my car into a lower gear and use the engine to slow the car down for me...


Just a bit of friendly advice. Stop using the engine and transmission to slow the car. These are expensive components to repair or replace. Use your brakes. That's what they were designed for and are relatively cheap.

Mike
haha....maybe I could have said that in a better way....I dont always use my car engine to slow my car but if its a road where I need to use it I will....but its not like I am using my engine to slow down when approaching a red light or something ....but i dont ride my brakes like crazy....specially like some old people do
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Old 02-16-2007, 07:56 PM   #9 (permalink)
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BTW...I got rotors from this brand called WEAREVER....never heard of it before....is it any good or am I just relying on cheap stuff....as for the pads....I got these Bendix CT-3 for the front and back brakes.....what are you opinion on these pads?
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Old 02-17-2007, 01:58 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Bendix= great, expensive, raybestos=good, good price, Wearever=ok, better price. its not like wearever is bad, but it aint the best. it should do a good job.
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Old 02-17-2007, 05:53 PM   #11 (permalink)
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^^^ Okay...glad to hear that these parts are good....now I am just waiting for the pads and rotors to break in so that I can get maximum brake performance. However, they feel real strong already
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Old 02-18-2007, 03:02 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I've never heard of pads & rotors having to break in. They should be working great from the get go.
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Old 02-18-2007, 04:39 PM   #13 (permalink)
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yes you always have to "break-in" your brakes. its nothing special, you just shouldnt be too hard on them for 50-100 miles of driving. its just where the rotors, and pads are getting to know eachother, and beginning their wear cycle.
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Old 03-05-2007, 06:23 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Axel Kain
yes you always have to "break-in" your brakes. its nothing special, you just shouldnt be too hard on them for 50-100 miles of driving. its just where the rotors, and pads are getting to know eachother, and beginning their wear cycle.
I've just replaced my front brake on my 97 Camry and I've noticed a smoke are comming out from both wheels. Is this very common for first few miles? I don't think I've cleaned a rotor very well(rotor had some protective oil on it) but I'm assuming it need to "break-in".
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Old 03-05-2007, 08:17 PM   #15 (permalink)
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a bit of smoke at first is ok, and youd notice your steering wheel pulling one way or another if they werent working right.
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