Strut install advice

[Galvatron]

My girlfriend's 99 V6 has some knocking noises coming from the front suspension. Too many potholes in the city, methinks. I'm 99% sure it just needs new struts, how likely do you think it is that the mounts will need to be replaced too? Is there any easy way to check before taking everything apart?

Which brand struts do you like best? Looking around online I see the KYB's and Monroe's. I have KYB's on my car and they are great. We don't need anything sporty, it's just a daily driver for her and luckily she doesn't have the upgrade bug like I do

Finally, anything strange I may run into? I'm going to rent a spring compressor, and I have a full set of sockets/ratchets, and an air compressor with an impact gun. I saw something about having to cut a slit to work the brake line out and not have to bleed them, was that only older Camries?

Thanks in advance.

[Admiral]

if you have over 80k miles, i'd change the mounts too. tokicos are nice. monroe would prop be the cheapest replacement.
i've never heard about cutting a slit. I'm not too sure what you mean. my guess is you will not have an issue with it.

[Galvatron]

It's got around 105K right now.

Here's the thread that turned up in searching about struts:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t121308.html

[Dave G]

I recommend having a 1/2" breaker bar and correct size socket for the lower strut bolts. Impact may not remove them.

[Galvatron]

Sounds good, I've got one already.

[AyzhenInvasion]

Originally Posted by Galvatron

I'm 99% sure it just needs new struts, how likely do you think it is that the mounts will need to be replaced too? Is there any easy way to check before taking everything apart?

u need new struts if you push on the car, let go, and it seems to occilate more than normal. when u push down, it should come back up to equilibrium but not go over, and down again.

if ur still gonna get new struts, i would replace the mounts too. (i replaced the struts and springs.. then a week later had to replace the mounts >.< too much work)

Originally Posted by Galvatron

Which brand struts do you like best? Looking around online I see the KYB's and Monroe's. I have KYB's on my car and they are great. We don't need anything sporty, it's just a daily driver for her and luckily she doesn't have the upgrade bug like I do

like admiral said. tokicos are nice (performance (stiffer)), kyb would be stock feel.

Originally Posted by Galvatron

Finally, anything strange I may run into? I'm going to rent a spring compressor, and I have a full set of sockets/ratchets, and an air compressor with an impact gun. I saw something about having to cut a slit to work the brake line out and not have to bleed them, was that only older Camries?

no. just be patient while tryin to get everything out and apart, and together and back in. u have all the tools except spring compressor. just to warn you, most of the spring compressors are a bitch. all u have to do with the brake lines is unbolt them from the strut. no bleeding necessary

[Galvatron]

Thanks for the advice. The only reason I'm weary of doing the mounts is because they pretty much cost the same thing as the struts. I guess we should do them anyway though.

[Mike Gerber]

I recommend changing both the struts and the mounts at that mileage. The 97-99 Camrys had some real problems with clunking noises created by defective strut mounts. Since you are going to do that, consider the Monroe Quick struts. They are a strut, strut mount, spring and all the rubber pieces, in a 1-piece assembly. They don't cost much more than replacing the strut and the mount alone and everything is now new, with less work and no danger of having to compress the old springs on and off. You just unbolt and remove the old strut assembly and bolt in the new assembly. Do a search; they have been discussed here numerous times. I found Pep Boys or Murrays to be the cheapest in my area. IIRC they were about $180 each.

Mike

[keithy]

if you're not getting the monroe struts assembly, make sure you align the shaft with the strut mount properly. When I did mine, I forgot about that and now, whenever I turn the steering to pull out from the walmart parking lot, I hear a little knocking sound. I need to redo mine on the front driver side.

Also, make sure you have the haynes manual in case you're lost.

[Galvatron]

Turns out the Monroe quick struts are $160 each from Advance Auto Parts. We're just going to do that, I like the idea of knowing everything up there is brand new and not having to go in over and over again for little things.

I know this isn't related at all, but I don't want to start a new thread for such a simple question. With the 1MZ-FE, do I have to remove anything to get to the rear spark plugs? I took a quick look and couldn't even see them, I'm afraid you have to take off the intake manifold or something like that.

[ASG14]

The knocking IS the strut mounts most likely. Not the strut itself.

My RECOMMENDED service is:
Struts
Mounts
SwayBar Links
Sway Bar Bushings

As I look at it, do it all, and get it out of the way for a worry free drive.

[ASG14]

Originally Posted by Galvatron

With the 1MZ-FE, do I have to remove anything to get to the rear spark plugs? I took a quick look and couldn't even see them, I'm afraid you have to take off the intake manifold or something like that.

The EASIEST way is to remove the intake plenum, but can be done without removing it. Just harder, and need the right tools. Too bad your near Philly and not closer to me, or I'd help.

[metalo69]

You don't need a spring compressor or to remove the intake plenum. Jack the vehicle up, remove the wheel, unbolt the calipers from the discand use some wire to hang them up out of the way, then losen the bolts that connect the strut to the steering knuckle (but don't remove them). Put the wheel back on, and set the car on the ground (with the jack still under the pinch weld). Now, remove the nut that holds the strut together (its the big one in the middle), then unbolt the strut from the strut tower. Lift the car back up and put a block of wood between the strut and the CV shaft (to prevent damage to the CV joint). Be extremely careful as you remove the bolts that connect the strut to the knuckle. The strut will sting out a little and land on the wood. Use something about 3 feet long or more, and push the strut away from the knuck (I personaly just kicked it but this can be dangerous). The strut will fall away and have no tension on the spring now. Now you can take it apart with out fear. You will need a strong friend to help you put the new one together, then you can put it all back into the car. Don't forget to put the bump stop on the new one, you need it. Once done, repeat process on all other wheels as needed.

Wheel thats one way, but I will tell you right now just go to Auto Zone and rent a damn spring compressor! lol. It is a lot easier with one, but you still have to be careful because whent he spring is compressed it has a lot of force behind it, if it where to come free and hit some one it could brake a rib, or something worse. Even out of the car they usually have about 300lbs or forse behind them.

[keithy]

oh yeah, don't forget about the ABS sensor as stated in the instruction of the sticky.