3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Hey guys, glad i could find this forum. I used to frequent the "camryman" forums", but they seem to have dissapeared. I am a long time Camry lover, my last car was a '88 Camry 4 banger that i drove to about 298,000 before i got tired of it leaking so much oil.
Anyways, i know have a 94 V6 sedan with around 105,000 on it that i bought 2 years ago. About 3 weeks ago i noticed a pretty bad burning smell when i turned my car on, so i pop the hood and wam no coolant in the system at all. I quickly got it to a dealership where they told me i have a leaky waterpump, and a leaking radiator, and estimated the repairs (with a new timing belt) to total around $1000. I have been putting off the repair and just constantly refilling the coolant because im low on funds, and im having a hard time justifying spending the money to get it fixed.
I'd like to do the radiator myself as my cost would go from about $500 at a dealership to about $180 for parts, but i have heard that the v6 is a tricky fit for the radiator, and it may be more pain than its worth. Any of you have experience putting one in, or useful tips? I saw there are pictures on here of someone doing a 94 4 cyl. but it looks slightly diff. than the v6.
I am looking for encouragement! If i can change the radiator myself, ill save enough money to pay a dealer to change my water pump and timing belt (which i definitely cant do on my own)! Should i try and do it? I have little experience fixing cars, but i am pretty handy.
Get the water pump and timing belt done ASAP! DO NOT WAIT! My friend has an Audi, and just yesterday, her water pump gave out after leaking for a while. Water pump ended up crapping out 100%, and car overheated bad. when you get the pump and belt done, have them change the Tensioner and the 3 crank seaks/gaskets. If you do it, do it right. I just had mine done over the summer.
For the radiator, if your good with cars, and do not mind spending some time, do it yourself and save a good bit of $. I personally have not done that, but it should not be too too hard for a Do It Yourself person.
But for the water pump, do it NOW! DO NOT wait. Before you know it, it crapps out, your car overheats, and welcome new engine.
And just FYI, in case you were interested, you have a 1MZ-FE Engine (Thats the engine code for the V6). Not sure if you knew.
Good Luck!
~Adam
*Edit. Along with the radiator, change the Thermostate and upper/lower radiator hoses as preeventative maintmence.
__________________
Employed at Toyota in Parts, again.
My riced out crapmobile Camry: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/228043...y-xle-sedan-4d '96 Camry: 2MZ Supercharged.....
'95 Corolla AE101: JDM Tails/Trunk Panel/Grill/Headlights with BiXenon Projectors. JDM Lighted Ignition Keyring and Cabin Air Filter
5 Lug Corolla WHAT?
i figured i would have to have the waterpump changed asap, but i am lucky that i have not had to drive this car for over 2 or 3 minutes at any time in the past 2 months.
I have pretty much decided to do the radiator myself, with the help of a more mechanically minded friend, and a free open garage on the campus here.
My one question is, as im reading the repair manual for the 1MZ-FE, i see that everything is pretty straightforward when replacing the radiator, except bleeding the electriconically controlled hydraulic cooling fan system. And also filling the cooling fan resevoir tank, as i dont know where that is exactly. Will i be able to do the bleed without special tools?
That really should not be hard at all. I do not know for sure though. I have a 1996 1MZ-FE, BUT, on 1996 Camry's, both fans were eletric, and not hydrolic (off the power steering pump I think). I'll try to ask at the dealer today if I get a chance to get there. Bot for special tools, I doubt it. I've nearly disasembled my entire car with a basic tool set.
Thanks for the replies, i took a look and i definetly have a hydraulic fan what a shame!
The only tool i was worried about really is the one to jump OP1 to E1 to bleed the hydraulic cooling fan system. Can i just use a nice heavy gage wire to do this?
Also what do people generally use to plug the transmission oil lines so they dont just pour out the whole time they are disconnected from cooler?
You have to jump the wires to bleed the system??? haha. Wow,t hats a weird one. I have not read up on it. Does it keep the line open and puming to bleed it then? Last time I jumped for a Check Engine Light, I just used a paper clip, and that works fine.
No idea on the tranny tines. I'd say while your at it, just drain out as much as you can, and add new fluid. It will only help. Draining the pan itself is only about 3-3.5 quarts. You know, one of the few things I've yet to do on my car is change my radiator, haha.
__________________
Employed at Toyota in Parts, again.
My riced out crapmobile Camry: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/228043...y-xle-sedan-4d '96 Camry: 2MZ Supercharged.....
'95 Corolla AE101: JDM Tails/Trunk Panel/Grill/Headlights with BiXenon Projectors. JDM Lighted Ignition Keyring and Cabin Air Filter
5 Lug Corolla WHAT?
You should not have to bleed the hydraulic fan system. I never did on my wife's 93 V6 camry and it was fine. Just remove the hydraulic lines from the fan carefully and raise them up out of the way so fluid does not drip out. Take the fan out and keep it oriented vertically so the fluid in it does not leak out either. The system should bleed itself eventually when everything goes back together since the fluid circulates thru the PS pump and the pump is highest point. You should get a new copper gasket washer(s) from the dealership though for the hose connection to the fan.
yeh i was pretty confused myself about the wire jumping, but it says as the second to last step in the repair manual to do this as it "grounds the ECT sensor" and fixes the cooling fan at 1100 rpm, then you start the car, and remove the jump and its done?
strange indeed!
how much is reasonable to pay for a new waterpump and timing belt with new tensioner and gaskets and such with labor (from a toyota dealership)?
Davemac2 has a good point. You likely will not have to bleed it.
I'd guess around $450-$600 parts and labor. for the belt, pump, and rest. BUT, All dealers are different, depending where you live. Where I am, would be more expensive then, say a place in Maine, due to the fact of a higher cost of business. Best bet is to call up your local dealer service Dept, and ask.
__________________
Employed at Toyota in Parts, again.
My riced out crapmobile Camry: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/228043...y-xle-sedan-4d '96 Camry: 2MZ Supercharged.....
'95 Corolla AE101: JDM Tails/Trunk Panel/Grill/Headlights with BiXenon Projectors. JDM Lighted Ignition Keyring and Cabin Air Filter
5 Lug Corolla WHAT?
My experience may be helpful to you, knowing what i know now (learned the hard way and presented in this post) i wouldnt hesitate to do the water pump etc. myself-
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
ToyotaNation.com is an independent Toyota/Lexus enthusiast website. ToyotaNation.com is not sponsored by or in any way affiliated with Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc. The Toyota, Lexus and Scion names and logos are trademarks owned by Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc.