CV axle replasement (i searched)

[satansvalet]

i searched but i did not find all the info i am looking for.

i have a 92 Camry 5s-fe and today i was at the store and either my CV joint or axle broke...i cant tell yet because it is dark, and i cant find a working flashlight anywhere...

i had my car towed home by a friend, but my questions are...

1) How hard is it for a driveway mechanic to replace either the CV joint or axle?
2) what tools are required (or even help)
3) can i replace either one part or the other, or do they basically come together in a pair (both the joint and axle)
4) where can i find the info on how to do this procedure, or is the Hayes manual my best bet?

Thanks,
I really don't want to have to drive my dads 96 neon for very long.

[toyomoho]

Which side broke, passengers or drivers? The passenger’s side can be harder to replace as it has an intermediate bearing. This bearing can freeze in its housing. Usually the complete axle is replaced as they are usually sold complete. Shop around for prices, most axles sold are rebuilt.

You will need a socket and large breaker bar to remove the axle nut that is torqued to something like 217 ft-lbs. Removing the axle from the differential can be challenging, you will need to pop it out with a pry bar. Pickup a torgue wrench.

You should be able to do the job, but take your time and expect a few issues if you have never done this type of thing before.

Check the TN threads at the bottom of this page as the problem has come up before.

The link below provides access to service manuals to do this job.

http://oregonstate.edu/~tongt/camry

[satansvalet]

it broke on the drivers side (US car), where the axle goes into the transmission.

Thanks, i really appreciate your help.

[abew330]

my pass. side broke.. i went to autozone and got both axles for like 220 i think and did the job myself.
what a pain in the ass that was
i didnt have any tools.. (a set) so i went out and got a tool set from sears but even then i didnt have all the tools i need... (for axle nut)
it is way easier if you have a compressor and air tools

[toyomoho]

Driver’s side is the easier side. Pickup a metric axle nut socket at Sears or Harbor Freight. Harbor Freight sales a low cost ¾ inch drive breaker bar. While there get a drive adapter to go from the ¾ inch drive to the ½ inch socket. ½ inch drives sockets are much cheaper.

Don't need a compressor if you have the large breaker bar (and a cheater pipe).

Send me a message if you get into trouble.

[abew330]

right.. you dont need a compressor but it WOULD make things a lot easier

[toyomoho]

Yes I know, but what are the odds he has one. I did it without using one and I have one, plus all the air tools, etc.

[satansvalet]

yeah i have an air compressor. but i dont have an impact wrench...


thanks guys ill post back in a few days when i have time to work on it.

[satansvalet]

alright i went to start tearing it apart today, and all i was able to remove was my hubcap...and the cotter pin. the only large socket i have that remotely fits, if the 1"1/4 that we bought to fix my brothers corolla...

so what size socket do i need to buy?

thanks.

EDIT: nevermind i found my micrometer, and it is a 30mm socket i needed so i picked one up for $13.77 not bad, considering i was expecting to pay around $15(autozone $13.77 and autozone.com $15)

[ghettosled]

its good that you bought the 30mm. standard size axle nut and that socket can be used to remove the valve cover(s).

how did it go, any other questions?

[satansvalet]

well i got part of the axle romoved, but this piece i cant remove...




and here are some pics i took of the process and of my car and my brothers car...

http://s91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...xio/cv%20axle/

[engineer]

<never changed the half shafts (CV shafts) on a Toyota, but have on my Mazda (twice, both sides), so it should be pretty similar>

That part can be removed and should already be on the replacemnet part you bought (held on with the CV boot). It may take some prying (be careful), but it will come off.



This is how your shaft should look when you bought it, as well as how it should look when you remove it from your car. The upper-left "joint" in this picture is the part still in your transmission. It is the housing for the 3 bearings that your old shaft has at the end. Like I said, the only thing that holds the two peices together is the CV boot (well, other than once it's installed. . . .).

[engineer]

Oh, I should tell you, drain your Transmission fluid!!! If you don't do this first, you'll end up with a huge mess on your hands, literally!!!

[satansvalet]

alright man, thats actually the part that broke...it like its worn down...

i can put my car in reverse( on the jackstand/wood) and that piece will spin...but when i put it in park...it grind alot while still spinning...slowing down slowly.


ok i got that piece off...

[engineer]

whoa!!! just looked at your pictures!! how long has it been since you last changed your CV boots? those things are cracked, and probably why your driver side CV joint failed. The boots are meant to keep road grime and moisture out. If they have a tear in them (or dry rotted like the one you show in your picture), then it lets all of the road junk into the joint, basically causing wear, heat, and eventually premature failure. Check the passenger side and see how the boots look. If they are torn as well, might as well take care of it now.

Good luck.