Stalling, dead car and ruptured fuel pipe - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

fire-monkey · 03-02-2007, 01:35 PM

To begin with, though I think I am somewhat handy but a complete novice when it comes to automobile. I began thinking my car is an 04 instead of 94...yes, that bad:-)

Here is the story, 94, v4, 2.2 camry, was working perfectly but didn't start one cold morning eventhough it was turning over, had spark plugs replaced, it worked for one week and then it began to stall when ever I come to any stop at stop signs or stop lights. The engine would rumbled and grumbled, rpm foes up and down and bit before goes dead, several times it died very smoothly while the car is in motion and I did manage to glide over to the shoulder. It died completely eventually and wouldn't start again.

AAA hauled me home and I thought it may be faulty spark plug wires, so I had those replaced, no use. It still turns over but it wouldn't start. I tried to clean the throttle body and the butterfly(not sure if my cleaning job was good enough) and checked the air filter. No good. All these are done with an aid of a repair menu as I would be completely lost under the hood. So someone mention it maybe the oil filter, and...

As I was trying to take the old oil filter off, not easily accessible, I got the top nut off but in the process of getting the bottom locking nut, I reached it and after some mighty effort, it turned, so slowly I begin to turn it but after few twist, I realize I was turning the entire assembly. Yes you may have guessed it, I was actually twisting the fuel pipe. opps. Now I think I have ruptured the metal fuel pipe.

So now the car wouldn't start(still haven't figure out what the original problem is) and the fuel pipe is now bend twisted, and ruptured. Question with the fuel pipe is, can I just cut off the fuel pipe and connect the two end with rubber hose and clamps with a generic oil filter in the middle, will it handle the "higher" pressure of fuel injection.

Please please help!!!!!!

Thanks for all the kindness in advance

alotawatts · 03-02-2007, 11:03 PM

Why do you keep saying oil filter when you are talking about fuel ?
Don't feel bad. Someone else here that works in Toyota service center was talking about their shop keeping extra fuel lines in stock for their rookie mechanics that do the same thing.
You probably could splice in rubber FI hose but you really need a recessed part in each line end to seat the clamp(s). Get a new metal fuel line. (Junk Yard ?) Use a flare wrench and support the filter so you don't tweak the line.
My $.02

fire-monkey · 03-02-2007, 11:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alotawatts

Why do you keep saying oil filter when you are talking about fuel ?
Don't feel bad. Someone else here that works in Toyota service center was talking about their shop keeping extra fuel lines in stock for their rookie mechanics that do the same thing.
You probably could splice in rubber FI hose but you really need a recessed part in each line end to seat the clamp(s). Get a new metal fuel line. (Junk Yard ?) Use a flare wrench and support the filter so you don't tweak the line.
My $.02

Thanks, that is yet another reminder how much an amateur I am, any idea how much a new metal fuel line pipe might be. I almost want to throw in the towel and let the professional handle it.

I mean even if the rubber line can be a permanent solution(have anyone done this???), I still don't know if that is the cause of the car not starting, so...what to do???

***Eye8Pussies*** · 03-03-2007, 01:01 AM

where does that section of the metal fuel line detatch? if it will be a big job, then I would find a different route. As well, if I was going to replace it, I wouldn't go to a junk yard for something that important.

as for the other route that you mentioned using rubber hoses, that is not a problem. Just make sure that you pick up specific hoses made for high pressure (100psi+) and also designed specifically for fuel use, as fuels can deteriorate rubber not designed for use with gasoline. As for the clamps, make sure that you pick up specific fuel line clamps as well and you'll be fine. Then camp those hoses on tight.

In regards to your original problem, I would say check your MAF sensor. The up and down idle before stall + no start condition indicates bad readings at the maf. It could also be vacuum leaks, but unless the vacuum leak is massive to the point where you can hear it or see it, the car should still run, but just really rough. But with a really bad maf signal, the car will just die.

fire-monkey · 03-03-2007, 08:30 AM

The twist/ruptured section of the fuel pipe occurs just below the fuel filter, about an inch. Has anyone actually done something like this, using high pressure fuel hose in place of metal fuel line??? I really have no idea and not exactly with the idea but neither does caughing up big buck for the proper repair by professional, the car is only worth what 2 grand at best?

The MAF sensor, is it within easy enough reach by a super rookie like me?

thanks

alotawatts · 03-03-2007, 11:27 AM

Again, without recessed points (like the connections on this filter - see link) on the hard lines for the clamps you are going to have gas leaks. Pressure is upwards to 40lbs. Maybe okay for a non FI / carburetor system. Call around to some shops and get some price quotes ?
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/ima...3321270038.jpg

***Eye8Pussies*** · 03-03-2007, 12:24 PM

^ I disagree

I've done the clamping from hardline (the hard plastic line connecting to the fuel pump) with no recessed points to a rubber line using fuel hose clamps with no problems. they must be tightened up extremely well though. the fuel line clamps were designed for this exact use because it exerts equal pressure all around the rubber line unlike most clamp designs

fire-monkey · 03-03-2007, 01:43 PM

Here go nothing, just got fuel hose and clamps, I figure to put two clamps at each point, that ought to hold... fingers cross.

As for the dead car won't start, someone mention it may be the ignition coil, which I have yet touch because it seems to be hard to get at, and it's nothing that can be visually inspected. But one thing at a time...

Thanks for all answers and helpful suggestions

fire-monkey · 03-03-2007, 08:46 PM

Up date;

Hose and clamps and generic fuel filter seems to be working, fuel are coming through so I think that is an indication that the fuel pump is working, but still it wouldn't start....

94CoupeV6 · 03-05-2007, 12:27 AM

Just so you know, it's an I4 (inline 4 cylinder), not a V4.

fire-monkey · 03-05-2007, 07:34 AM

Thanks, now I know, how to call it properly.

Will try to get at the ECT sensor and EGR valve and see if they do anything....

***Eye8Pussies*** · 03-05-2007, 11:28 AM

did you end up checking the maf sensor?

the ect sensor and egr valve can cause problems, but will still let your car run

fire-monkey · 03-05-2007, 06:28 PM

very unhappy update, I got the fuel pipe fixed and had a generic see through fuel filter inplace of the original metal filter and the clamps seems to be holding... Try turning it on, still no go.

So at the point the list of potential culprits are Idle air control, throttle position sensor, MAf sensor, ETC sensor, EGR valve and lastly, ignition coil or distribution cap.

In face with the long list and I have no electrical background, I wasn't about to plunge into the world of ohm and replacing every bit seems to be unrealistic so I did the wimpy thing and had AAA haul the car to the nearest garage.

Upon calling the garage someitmes later, the guy said, why did you have the car here...I said it wouldn't start... and the guy said, well, my elf went in and the car started right up!
What the #@$$%$@#$$%!!!! The car wouldn't start since thursday and it does the moment it get to a garage... I just can't believe it. So what am I to do now?????