3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
96 Camry DX, 130K miles...the taillights have stopped working on both sides. Fuses are fine, in car and under hood. There's power at the fuseblock, but none at the socket. Took the driver taillight assembly out , bulb was fine-both filaments, no wire damage (side marker lights work in the light assemby). Anyone come across this? Please help ASAP!
G
Check the loom of wires inside the trunk by the trunk hinge on the driver's side. Open up the loom and look for broken or frayed wires. Repair them as necessary. This is a common problem area for Camrys, as this loom of wires is subjected to a lot of flexing from all the opening and closing of the trunk.
Well we did that and there were no fray or broken wires. using a continuity checker we figured out that it's somewhere between the fuse block and the plug in the trunk that splits the wiring off to the various taillights. There is a tail light sensor box on that line, could that have something to do with it do you think?
thanks
Grant
just the ones under the hood and the passenger kickpanel. no problems there. we're going to try an jumper the tail lights line around the lamp failure sensor and see if that's it.
its probally the little yellow or white box that is attaches to the loom of wires in there they usually go bad, its the box that tells you if theres a light out on the dash, any who crack that baby open and there are 3 solder joints in there that usually go bad look at them all and if any traces are gone replace them with a jumper wire and you are good to go.
also, from the same forum... same problem (no tail lights, all bulbs and fuses are fine) and I wanted to share my solution.
From what the dealership told me, if you have a 1988-1991 Camry, and you look in your trunk, on the driver's side, behind the carpeting on the side wall - you will find a small yellow box about the size of a pack of cigarettes. Disconnect that box from the wire harness, and use a flathead screwdriver to carefully open the lid. You will most likely see an obvious area that is black and chared a little left of the center marked with a printed number on the circuit board, like 1 or 2. There's the culprit!
You can either pay Toyta some un-Godly ammount of money to replace this POS part from the 80's, you can try to hunt one down in a junkyard for $5-$30 plus gas and time depending on where you find it, or you can make the repair yourself.
Ya, we just got the box opened and the problem looks exactly like photos in my earlier post. Too bad we have planned obsolescence. Keeps Toyota in business. My buddy is going to solder it tomorrow. I'll post back the results. He said 4 of 5 junk yard Camrys have this module removed!
If I want to remove the light failure sensor completely and bypass it, does anyone know the correct way to wire it? I'm not an electrician, but have been studying the wiring diagrams (and experimenting with different connections). There are eight wires, which makes to too many combinations!
My logic says to wire green to light-green, but then the stop (brake) lights cannot be seen.
Have checked with the salvage yards and nothing available nearby. Not interested in paying Toyota's price for the sensor, as I can check the lamps manually.
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96 Camry tail lights out
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