3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
The reason for these questions is ALL but one of my studs broke off my right front wheel... Actually, there were two, and the guy who towed my car took the liberty of breaking the other one while he was putting the tire back on (I had taken the wheel off)... I didn't know it, and parked the car when I felt it shimmy and making a loud noise... There were no steering issues, though, which was strange... From reading the repair manual, I need to remove the wheel hub assy. to get more studs, so I figured I may as well change the whole thing, not just the studs... Is that a good idea? It seems like a pretty straight-forward process, but is it difficult to do?
The reason for these questions is ALL but one of my studs broke off my right front wheel... Actually, there were two, and the guy who towed my car took the liberty of breaking the other one while he was putting the tire back on (I had taken the wheel off)... I didn't know it, and parked the car when I felt it shimmy and making a loud noise... There were no steering issues, though, which was strange... From reading the repair manual, I need to remove the wheel hub assy. to get more studs, so I figured I may as well change the whole thing, not just the studs... Is that a good idea? It seems like a pretty straight-forward process, but is it difficult to do?
You don't need to remove the hub to get out a stud, it just makes it much easier. Take off the caliper and rotor, then drive out what's left with a heavy hammer (and a punch if there's nothing there to hit). To put the new stud on (they should be M12 X 1.5 - 40mm), get it situated in the splines from behind and stick it through the hole. Then, take some washers the same diamter (I'd recommend enough to just give the lug nut a few threads) and an old lug nut and tighten the hell out of it until it presses the stud into the hub. It really works if you've got an impact wrench (air or electric, you just need a quick burst of torque). When it's fully seated in the hub, you can loosen the lug nut, remove the washers, and you're done. I had to replace two studs when I got my car, and that's how I did it. I just bought longer studs to accomodate my new wheels and that's how I'm going to put them in, too.
__________________ Current Ride(s): 08 Pontiac G8, 02 Mitsubishi Lancer, 94 GMC Sierra
Former Ride(s): 93 Camry SE V6 5-Speed , 95 Camry DX 4-cyl
You don't need to remove the hub to get out a stud, it just makes it much easier. Take off the caliper and rotor, then drive out what's left with a heavy hammer (and a punch if there's nothing there to hit). To put the new stud on (they should be M12 X 1.5 - 40mm), get it situated in the splines from behind and stick it through the hole. Then, take some washers the same diamter (I'd recommend enough to just give the lug nut a few threads) and an old lug nut and tighten the hell out of it until it presses the stud into the hub. It really works if you've got an impact wrench (air or electric, you just need a quick burst of torque). When it's fully seated in the hub, you can loosen the lug nut, remove the washers, and you're done. I had to replace two studs when I got my car, and that's how I did it. I just bought longer studs to accomodate my new wheels and that's how I'm going to put them in, too.
Where would I get new studs from? The car is in my job's parking lot, and while I can (and will) go and buy an electric impact wrench, I don't have access to electricity for it...
You can buy wheel studs at most parts stores, I think the stock Dorman P/N is 610-266. I did not realize that you're car's in an unconvenient location, I was just suggesting what you could do instead of buying a whole new hub. Using an impact is the quickest way of pulling the stud back into the hub, that's why I suggested it.
__________________ Current Ride(s): 08 Pontiac G8, 02 Mitsubishi Lancer, 94 GMC Sierra
Former Ride(s): 93 Camry SE V6 5-Speed , 95 Camry DX 4-cyl
You don't need to remove the hub to get out a stud, it just makes it much easier. Take off the caliper and rotor, then drive out what's left with a heavy hammer (and a punch if there's nothing there to hit). To put the new stud on (they should be M12 X 1.5 - 40mm), get it situated in the splines from behind and stick it through the hole. Then, take some washers the same diamter (I'd recommend enough to just give the lug nut a few threads) and an old lug nut and tighten the hell out of it until it presses the stud into the hub. It really works if you've got an impact wrench (air or electric, you just need a quick burst of torque). When it's fully seated in the hub, you can loosen the lug nut, remove the washers, and you're done. I had to replace two studs when I got my car, and that's how I did it. I just bought longer studs to accomodate my new wheels and that's how I'm going to put them in, too.
I will be doing this on my dad's 99 soon, which has a broken stud. Do I need to put any compound on the new stud before putting it back on?
Just make sure the hole is clean, the stud's splined section is designed as an interference fit, so it will be very tight.
Unless you do not have power tool I would leave it dry.
If you must use a lube, like doing this by hand tool, get a tiny bit of tapping oil, or anti-seize, something with extreme pressure lubricant (Moly graphite, etc).
Look into loctite retaining compound which will aid in assembly. It also reduces vibration wear and seals out moisture, but really overkill.
__________________
2004 RX330 Sport
2003 Cam I4 XLE
2000 Cam XLE Gold Edition V6
1998 CamCE I4 Super Commuter!
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, 95 Camry DX 4-cyl
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