reverse lamps not working/check engine light - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

leasure23 · 03-21-2007, 11:40 PM

I've been here in the past with great success. I'm hoping somebody can help with an issue in my 99 camry le 4cyl. When I put the car in reverse it will sometimes trigger this light under the temp guage. It looks like a little car with headlights on. This will also trigger the reverse light in the instrument cluster to stay on even when I put in park. I had my friend help check when the car was in reverse to see if the back-up lights near the trunk worked. They did not work at all. I don't know if it is from this issue but my check engine light is coming on sometimes. I'm not sure if these are related. Another note. I noticed when the car is not really warmed up it is slow to respond when I put it in reverse. I'll give it gas and it seems sluggish and unresponsive. When it is warmed up it seems fine. I hope I didn't miss anything. Thanks! Matt

nuchieboy · 03-21-2007, 11:56 PM

that little light under the temp gauge is the bulb light....one or more or your reverse lights or brake light are burned out...press on the brakes and put the car in reverse and have somebody take a look for u...hope this helps

***toyomoho*** · 03-22-2007, 12:36 PM

Next time the check engine light comes on drive to AutoZone or another place that will read the codes for free.

Mike Gerber · 03-22-2007, 06:33 PM

As the 2 previous posters have stated, you have 2 different issues. The light bulb indicator is telling you that one or more of the bulbs is/are burned out. If the indicator appears to be showing the headlights, then your burned out bulb is in front. If it's showing the tail lights, then your problem is one of the rear bulbs. When checking the rears, don't forget that there can be double filament bulbs back there and one of the filaments can be out. Also, don't forget the high mounted brake light. I'm guessing the problem is in the rear since you said that it happens when you put the car in reverse. In order to put the car in reverse, you have to depress the brake pedal, normally trigering the brake lights to be on.

The other problem with the check engine light illuminating, most likely means one of the sensors is going out. As has been suggested above, when it comes on or even flickers on and off, take the car to Autozone as soon as you can, to get the code read for free and then report back here.

Mike

hbasavar · 03-26-2007, 09:57 PM

Does your Odometer and all gauges go out when you put into reverse? I have a very similar problem. If you check the CEL code, it will probably tell you it is the Speed sensor.

The problem so far I have narrowed down that it is a electrical problem with the shorting. The symptoms are
1. your reverse lights don't work
2. odometer all gauges go down
3. your gauge fuse (10 A) is blown
4. your battery is getting drained as well but you won't know it until it fails to start.
5. your irregular driving is because of the speed sensor giving irregular readings. If you fix the problem the speed sensor should be fine.

There are 2 points of short that I have narrowed down to:

1. Short on the wires on the hinge of your trunk
2. Park/Neutral switch

I will keep you posted. In the mean time, if you have already found the problem, please do let me know.

Hemanth.

leasure23 · 04-03-2007, 11:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hbasavar

Does your Odometer and all gauges go out when you put into reverse? I have a very similar problem. If you check the CEL code, it will probably tell you it is the Speed sensor.

The problem so far I have narrowed down that it is a electrical problem with the shorting. The symptoms are
1. your reverse lights don't work
2. odometer all gauges go down
3. your gauge fuse (10 A) is blown
4. your battery is getting drained as well but you won't know it until it fails to start.
5. your irregular driving is because of the speed sensor giving irregular readings. If you fix the problem the speed sensor should be fine.

There are 2 points of short that I have narrowed down to:

1. Short on the wires on the hinge of your trunk
2. Park/Neutral switch

I will keep you posted. In the mean time, if you have already found the problem, please do let me know.

Hemanth.

I'm begining to think the issue is my reverse/nuetral switch. I tested the wiring and I'm getting voltage to the light. This is the weird thing it is doing. If I start it up and put the car in reverse quickly the reverse lights will light up but very dim. Same goes with the park lights and licence plate lights. if i turn on my lights it will quickly turn off all the dim lights and only turn on my tailights. That triggers the reverse shifter light to come on and the light indicator(little car with headlights on) in the cluster. Then the check engine light comes on. I hope that is not the issue but i Think it may be it. I've read other post on adjusting or replacing on a 95 camry. Is it the same for the 99's? I have an automatic tranny is that more difficult?

kamrhee · 04-04-2007, 02:31 PM

I second what hbasavar mention about the trunk hinge. Its not an issue to unwrap the conduit sleeve and check for any broken/cut or almost cut wires. Mine was giving me a rear light bulb out and the reverse /red light at trunk with work occasionally. When I check the wire at the hinge area, a few were cut and a few were barely together.

kamrhee

hbasavar · 04-04-2007, 02:49 PM

Solved mine!

Actually it was both the problems I mentioned above.

I had like 4 wires broken near the hinge area which was difficult to find out. Had to cut open the plastic conduit. I fixed that and loosened the wires out, that way there is no tension on the wires when operating the hinge.

The second was with the Park/Neutral switch which had to be cleaned and positioned back. You need to open the switch and clen the contacts and put some new lubricant over it. You are putting it back on, you need to adjust the position properly so that it makes clean good contacts when shifting.

leasure23 · 04-05-2007, 12:48 AM

Hello hbasavar,

Thanks for the advice. I hope I can clean it up and make it work. It would save me a lot of cash. You mentioned you have pictures. Would it be a problem to post where that part is located on the transmission. Did you put it on jacks or is it accessible under the hood? I can't seem to locate it. Thanks again,

Matt

88 LE · 04-05-2007, 04:23 AM

^ Front of the transmission. Shifter cable is attached to it.

leasure23 · 04-05-2007, 02:43 PM

Nice picture! That will help a lot. How long does it take to remove? I was quoted 2 hours at the dealership.

***toyomoho*** · 04-05-2007, 02:49 PM

Had the same problem with the reverse light wiring breaking at the same location. The shifter switch problem might cause the trouble light to go on as the ECU will have trouble knowing which gear is engaged.

leasure23 · 04-06-2007, 10:01 AM

How do you get this off? I took out the 2 10mm bolts and unhooked the shifter cable. Then I took off the small nut and lock washer that holds the bracket on the switch. Although when I took them all off the switch was loose but wouldn't come off. I noticed the shaft that has the bracket is flat on two sides and threaded on the other two. There is another larger nut that has come kind of lock washer that is real thin and has a tab folded down. Does this need to be removed to remove the switch? I had to put everything back together last night after I couldn't get the switch off. When I was coming home I noticed my cruise control was not working now. I don't even know what to think about that if they are related. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Matt

leasure23 · 07-05-2007, 09:53 PM

I'm still having trouble trying to remove the reverse nuetral safety switch. My first attempt failed. I never got a response to my last post so I put it all back together for another try sometime down the road. I added a picture to illustrate my question. Here was my last post that was never answered. Any help would be greatly appreciated. How do you get this off? I took out the 2 10mm bolts and unhooked the shifter cable. Then I took off the small nut and lock washer that holds the bracket on the switch. Although when I took them all off the switch was loose but wouldn't come off. I tried to wiggle it loose but I stopped from really torqing on it. Then I noticed the shaft that has the bracket is flat on two sides and threaded on the other two. There is another larger nut that has come kind of lock washer that is real thin and has a tab folded down. Does this need to be removed to remove the switch? I had to put everything back together last night after I couldn't get the switch off. When I was coming home I noticed my cruise control was not working now. I don't even know what to think about that if they are related. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

***Silver Streak*** · 07-06-2007, 11:33 AM

^ I would say it's time to go get a Haynes manual, or simply read it in the store. I did this before, and Haynes gave a step by step instruction on how to remove it. I don't think Chilton's did.

On my gen 3, I think there were 3 bolts, but that was 4 years ago. Once you remove all the bolts and shift lever cable, you simply are supposed to slide it off...essentially slide it towards the front of the car.

That's that most information I can offer at this point.....