oil pump o-ring and pulley instructions - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

ghettosled · 03-28-2007, 09:38 PM

i finally got around to replacing my oil pump o-ring. low and behold! my oil leak has stopped. i took pictures along the way in case anyone was interested. it actually turned out to be very easy to do (once the timing belt is off).

take off the lower timing belt pulley pictured.

timing belt pulley removed.

i removed the oil pump pulley now because i wasnt sure how everything was connected, but the outer assembly can be removed with the pulley still attached. i used a strap wrench to hold the pulley and a socket wrench on the nut. then unscrew the 7 bolts holding the outer assembly to the main pump body. take note of the location of the two smaller bolts.

the outer assumble was stuck in place, so i took a mallet and tapped the edges until it broke loose. the outer assembly will come out with the pulley shaft. BE CAREFUL this shaft doesnt slide out and hit the floor or get dinged/scraped up! once you, pull the shaft out from the backside. use a screwdriver to removed the old shaft seal.

carefully scrape the old o-ring off the outer assemble and main pump body. use some brake cleaner to clean off the old oil. pay close attention to clean out this little oil drail hole near where the shaft seal was.

with the assembly now clean, install the new shaft seal. i used a larger socket and a hammer to seat the seal. DO NOT press the seal in all of the way until it cant go in any further. you will cover that drain hole you cleaned out in the previous step. install the seal in far enough that the outside edge is even with the front surface of the outer assembly.

clean up the area the new o-ring will go on the pump main body. back to the outer assembly, before you install the pulley shaft, use some clean oil and lube up the surfaces that will make contact between the outer assembly and pulley shaft. to hold the o-ring in place, i dabbed a couple of small strageticly placed dots of RTV to hold the o-ring in place. then bolt the outer assembly back to the main body. turn the shaft as you install the outer assembly to slip the pump gear back together.

install the oil pump pulley, timing belt pulley and re-install the timing belt.
so... any questions?

hbasavar · 03-28-2007, 10:41 PM

Very nice. thanks for sharing. How much time did it take for you overall?

ghettosled · 03-29-2007, 07:45 AM

from start to finish including timing belt and putting all of the tools away, just under 3 hours. and that was taking my sweet time and some pictures along the way.

popeye08 · 04-08-2007, 02:08 PM

Very nice picture, thanks.

Did you see any oil on the timing belt? I probably have the same problem, but I may have to leave it as it is at this time and just eye on the oil level. Is it a big deal?

Quote:

Originally Posted by ghettosled

from start to finish including timing belt and putting all of the tools away, just under 3 hours. and that was taking my sweet time and some pictures along the way.

ghettosled · 04-09-2007, 08:27 AM

no oil on the belt, just on my driveway. as long as its not leaking like a river, its okay to wait as long as you keep up with the oil level. heck, ive been wanting to do this for about 2 or 3 months before i got around to doing it.

popeye08 · 04-09-2007, 06:00 PM

Thanks.

last time I used 5w-30 for the first time, it suddenly leaked a lot. I have switched back to 10w-30, maybe 10w-40 later and see. My lesson if you have an old car and do not try to use dilute oil if you haven't replaced the seals.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ghettosled

no oil on the belt, just on my driveway. as long as its not leaking like a river, its okay to wait as long as you keep up with the oil level. heck, ive been wanting to do this for about 2 or 3 months before i got around to doing it.

WhiteRabbit · 04-09-2007, 07:45 PM

thanks for the write up!

wtjpcardinal · 05-20-2007, 09:27 AM

I'm getting ready to do the oil pump seal also while doing the TB and WP. The factory repair manuals say to remove the oil pan. I guess that isn't necessary? Thnaks

ghettosled · 05-21-2007, 07:24 AM

if you remove the whole oil pump, then yes, you have to remove the oil pan. but if you are just replacing the o-ring and pulley seal, then no.

profuse007 · 05-21-2007, 08:13 PM

while y'all guys are at it, check the oil pump rotors for wear. usually, the drive rotor (the one w the shaft) is worn out. my camry had 200k+ miles and it was barely in specs. i got it replaced for about 30bucks at toyota.

locker · 05-22-2007, 09:13 PM

just happend to notice this post today. Was very helpful as I just replaced those same seals today

wtjpcardinal · 05-23-2007, 03:39 AM

Just to make sure I'm doing the right thing, the crankshaft goes through a separate part of the oil pump? I have replaced the crankshaft seal and am going to replace the oil pump seal. It looks like all of that is one piece on the engine, but with your pictures it shows 2 pieces. I just want to make sure I didn't mess up and replace the crank seal too early in the process. From the looks of things, I would have to pull it all off to replace the oil seal and do the crank seal again. But your pictures(which are great) show I wouldn't. Sorry if these questions seem dumb but I don't want to mess this up since it's my first time. Thanks everyone!

ghettosled · 05-23-2007, 07:50 AM

hey, if you have questions, do ask. its better than not knowing and doing something wrong.

the crankshaft does not go through the outer assembly of the oil pump. you will have to remove the crankshaft pulley, but thats it. the 6th photo down you can see the outer assembly off of the oil pump and the crankshaft timing gear and seal are still in place. if you were to replace the gasket for the main body of the oil pump, then you may have to remove the crank seal and timing gear, but not for the oil pump o-ring and pulley seal.

Stillrunning · 05-23-2007, 08:50 AM

Other than RTV use assembly grease on the o-ring groove to hold it in place. I would also smear the oil pump gears with assembly grease as well otherwise you will be getting a dry start-up. Toyo seals now have factory dabs of grease on the lip seal. Another reason to buy Toyo seals.

wtjpcardinal · 05-24-2007, 03:34 AM

Thanks for all the help. All in all, this doesn't seem like that bad of a job except for getting the right SST's or making them. Thanks for the tricks in helping also. I just wish I had more time to work on it instead of a little here and a little there. These long hours of getting the Camries down the line and out the door doesn't allow that much. Thanks again!