3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I just read several of the 8+ page turbo threads, and I have a decent understanding. I'm not looking for anything major, and since I would be running all stock internals I was looking at something like a 50-75 shot. And if I understand this right, the wet kit pretty much requires a new high-flow fuel pump, such as the Walbro 190, and that a dry kit can just be sprayed right after the MAF sensor on the air intake, and is less dangerous.
I have a few questions though. With a dry kit, all I would need to do (engine wise), is connect the injector in the intake piping after the sensor, right? And would that kit include everything I need to get started (is the nitrous included in the bottle from that site?) And would everything be safe to run on stock internals and everything? Im just looking for some serious input here.
Also, someone brought this website up on a previous thread, and they are actually located in NH as well. With this (#16) "HP Kit", really add any noticable difference, especially for $1300? Or would it allow me to run a higher shot? http://www.importperformanceparts.ne...ek-toyota.html
they never ship bottles charged(full). as far as wet and dry, ive herd that dry is safer but u also run the risk of a back flash. but im a far cry for a nitrus expert or fan, it only causes problems compared to other means in my experiance.
I looked into N20 for my 3.8V6 camaro...so not sure if it's applicable to a camry...
for my camaro, I wouldn't have needed a aftermarket fuel pump unless I was going 100+shot (dry)...full exhaust and intake were recommend, other than that you SHOULD be set to go w/ stock internals w/ a 50 shot or maybe a 75 shot (once again, not sure w/ your engine)
You will want a RPM Window switch...and possibly a bottle heater and purge
ALSO, I know someone who sells complete kits w/ a window switch for ~$500
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Last edited by blackedcoupeLE; 03-29-2007 at 10:09 PM.
From what i've read, dry kits are much easier to install, remove, and dont require as much modifications, but arent as "accurate" as wet kits, which I believe are used in conjunction with your fuel rails, injectors, and such.
I was assuming that as long as I wasnt running above 75HP, I shouldnt have a problem, but i'm not sure.
that's the thing dry kits has a more of a chance to mess your engine up than wet kits because wet kits mix in with the fuel so I guess it balances it out. I could be wrong but I have to read up on it again I had it down a long time ago but forgot.
^I was under that same impression from what I remember reading as well. I thought because there was always more gas for the wet kit it made the chances of damaging your engine less. But again I would wait for a person with more expertise for confirmation
not too sure...numbers can vary....a 50 shot for wet usually actually puts down almost 50whp, whereas dry shots are less...and for the 5sfe...I would presume so as well.
that, and for a 100bucks as preventative measures, why wouldn't you?
and geoff- yes, that would fit. the pump itself is usually universal, since you will have to mount that onto your fuel pump mount yourself and hook it up to the hoses yourself as well
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for the SC im getting a Wet Kit, Zex or NX (most likely NX). Its harder to install, becuase you tap into a fuel like to get a source of fuel for the nitrous, but its a lot safer.
Ill be doing some supporting mods, exhaust intake, safc, fuel pump, bottle heater/cooler, purge, wideband etc. Safer than sorry, ya know? Probably goign to cost about $500 for the kit and another $500 for the needed mods, pump, purge, etc.
Don't run a dry kit unless you are capible of adding fuel by your own means.
You can only get away with relatively small horsepower increases on the stock fuel system simply because you only have so much over-fueling on the factory system avalible at it's factory tune.
If you're hell bent on running a dry shot (Which I would not. A wet kit is nothing more than splicing the fuel return line, or fuel sending line & running one more line to the solenoid / fogger nozzle). Spray it BEFORE the MAF.
That way atleast you will get afew horsepower worth of more fuel b/c the ECU will atleast see that the incoming charge is denser because it is colder. It will not compensate even 50% for the change like that, simply because n2o is 33% oxygen & ambient air is around 21% o2.
Dry kits are not safer than wet kits. Wet kits are safer until you get to the point that you need progressively more fuel than can be provided by a simple fogger nozzle. Which... Isn't going to happen until you hit afew hundred horsepower. or you can afford stand-alone engine management, or extra injectors.
The s-fe intake manifold & fuel rail doesn't flow particularly evenly either.
Run a 50 wet shot & install NGK Copper plugs 1 step colder than stock. You'll want a Walbro 190. Noone would ever get away with running an extra 75hp of anything on the stock s-fe fuel system. There's bearly 140bhp worth of fuel there safely & definately not even 175bhp worth of fuel.
And that IP website is a sack full of horse manure. It should be avoided.
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