Where should I start???

[renmike]

Okay, I need some honest assistance here.

Some background: Last Sunday, I pulled the car out, washed, polished, and waxed the camry, no problems. Pulled the car back under the carport. Monday afternoon, I was getting ready to go to class when I went to start the car, it had a hard time idling then finally started sputtering and smelling really rich. I pulled the spark plugs and noticed the #4 plug was a little bit wet and smelled a little bit of fuel. Just to add, I've noticed in the mornings for the past month or so a strong fuel smell when I start the car up and it continues to smell that way until it warms up.

Now tonight, i crank it over a few times (with the plugs out), and nothing comes out of the plug tubes (just in case I thought I had a blown head gasket). I put the spark plugs back in, and start it up. It idles kinda funny for about 20 seconds, then smooths out. It :SEEMS: okay now. I checked for any trouble codes, and the only one I got was a code 63 for the tranny (i'll check that out this weekend).

So now I'm kinda perplexed. I have already did the quick-clean on the IAC valve, I am curious what else would let the engine pump in excessive fuel upon cold starts. I have been searching and reading the Toyota manual, but a quick breakdown of most to least likely sensors/places to check would be very helpful. I have no problem checking resistances or voltages, I just want to make sure I'm checking the most likely things first.

Thanks.

EDIT: I took my truck to work again this morning but I went ahead and tried to start the car and it started right up... very weird. I don't feel like being (possibly) stranded in Memphis traffic this morning though.

[GrkBallaG]

Originally Posted by renmike

I am curious what else would let the engine pump in excessive fuel upon cold starts.

Sounds like a coolant temp sensor. It may be stuck on something and saying it is alot colder than what it actually is and dumping mad fuel in the motor.

[renmike]

I thought I had read something where the coolant temp sensor had something to do with how much fuel the engine receives before it warms up, I'll make sure to check that out, thanks.

[Mike Gerber]

"I pulled the spark plugs and noticed the #4 plug was a little bit wet and smelled a little bit of fuel"

Check the injector for that number 4 cylinder. It may be leaking down after engine shutoff and causing that cylinder to be really rich when restarted. You can only check the electronics on that injector yourself. Use a DVM and the specs from any manual. If the electronics check out OK, I would try a couple of cans of fuel injector cleaner in each of the next couple of tanks of gas. If the problem persists, pull that #4 plug again and check to see if it is still wet and still smells like fuel. You may eventually have to replace that injector, but since injectors are not cheap, I would try everything else first.

Also, check the resistance of that #4 spark plug wire. It could be going bad causing a weak spark to be sent to that plug.

Mike

[renmike]

Originally Posted by Mike Gerber

"I pulled the spark plugs and noticed the #4 plug was a little bit wet and smelled a little bit of fuel"

Check the injector for that number 4 cylinder. It may be leaking down after engine shutoff and causing that cylinder to be really rich when restarted. You can only check the electronics on that injector yourself. Use a DVM and the specs from any manual. If the electronics check out OK, I would try a couple of cans of fuel injector cleaner in each of the next couple of tanks of gas. If the problem persists, pull that #4 plug again and check to see if it is still wet and still smells like fuel. You may eventually have to replace that injector, but since injectors are not cheap, I would try everything else first.

Also, check the resistance of that #4 spark plug wire. It could be going bad causing a weak spark to be sent to that plug.

Mike

I'll check that injector out as well. I think I have a whole set of injectors on the other head I pulled off the motor, so if anything I can eventually swap one out. Can I take an injector somewhere to have it tested, then I'll know if when I do have to change them out the ones i'm putting in are good?

I sure hope the plug wires aren't screwed up, its a set of NGKs that shouldn't be six months old.

Thanks

[Mike Gerber]

Originally Posted by renmike

I'll check that injector out as well. I think I have a whole set of injectors on the other head I pulled off the motor, so if anything I can eventually swap one out. Can I take an injector somewhere to have it tested, then I'll know if when I do have to change them out the ones i'm putting in are good?

I sure hope the plug wires aren't screwed up, its a set of NGKs that shouldn't be six months old.

Thanks

You can have that injector checked out, but I don't think it's really cost effective. Besides, you usually have to send the injector away to a place that can flow test them. Since you have 4 other ones to try, I would just try one or two of those and see if the problem goes away. Just be sure to have a couple of a new o-rings on hand when you swap injectors. The old one will probably turn to dust when you take it out. Also, don't forget about checking the electronics of your current injector with the DVM.

If the plug wires are six months old, they should be fine. If you saved the old ones and weren't having any problems with them (just changed them out as routine maintenance), you could switch the old number 4 wire in place of the new number 4 wire, just as a lark. You never know. I have seen parts defective right out of the box.

Mike

[renmike]

Aww shucks, I threw my old plug wires away about a month ago when I was cleaning out my stuff. I still have the old block, and a complete head with intake and exhaust manifolds still attached sitting in the back, and I think I have the neck that came out of the side of the head that the ECT and coolant gauge sensors were in with the sensors still attached.

[Mike Gerber]

Originally Posted by renmike

Aww shucks, I threw my old plug wires away about a month ago when I was cleaning out my stuff. I still have the old block, and a complete head with intake and exhaust manifolds still attached sitting in the back, and I think I have the neck that came out of the side of the head that the ECT and coolant gauge sensors were in with the sensors still attached.

I would think that if the ECT sensor was the problem, then all the plugs would have been wet with fuel, not just number 4. Remember, you can still check the ECT sensor with a DVM and the specs from any manual. Check it cold. It only takes a minute.

Too bad about the plug wires. Can you borrow one from a friends car just for a test? If you have an extra plug, you can pull that wire and put a plug in it. Then lay it across the engine block to ground it and start the engine. Look for a bright blue spark, not orange or yellow.

Mike

[renmike]

I went home and checked the resistance of the ect sensor (i found the other one, and checked it too). They both check out okay. I did notice that while the manual states that I should be receiving 5 volts from the ECM with the key turned on, I'm receiving more like 6.5. I checked it with both my voltmeters and got the same reading. I don't know how much that'll make of a difference, but I'll keep an eye on it. The only things I haven't done yet are check the voltage from the injector (pulled the rail and 4 injectors from my other head just in case i needed one) and check the spark on the plug. Listening to it today, I don't hear it missing. i won't have time again until saturday to get back into it, but i'll check all the other stuff out then. thanks for all the suggestions so far.

[Peka]

Originally Posted by Mike Gerber

Too bad about the plug wires. Can you borrow one from a friends car just for a test? If you have an extra plug, you can pull that wire and put a plug in it. Then lay it across the engine block to ground it and start the engine. Look for a bright blue spark, not orange or yellow.

Can't you just swap leads with another cylinder and see if the problem moves or stays on the same cylinder?

[Mike Gerber]

Originally Posted by Peka

Can't you just swap leads with another cylinder and see if the problem moves or stays on the same cylinder?

I thought of suggesting that, but having a 5SFE 4 cylinder engine myself, I doubt whether the leads (spark plug wires to us) will fit when trying to switch them.

Mike