MIL, P0135, Oxygen Sensor Bank1 Sensor1 + Pictures

[dlee]

Ok, here's my first post...and problem..."Check Engine Light"

Model: Camry 1997, V6, California

DTC: P0135 "Heated oxygen sensor heater circuit malfunction (bank 1, sensor 1) (according to Auterra Dynoscan and Chilton's)

Possible problem area:

• Open or short in heating oxygen sensor heater circuit
• Heated oxygen sensor heater malfunction
• PCM malfunction

Diagnostic steps taken so far:
1. Unplugged negative battery terminal, MIL disappears, then reappears after ~10mi (done twice)...thus, it's a "true" DTC (right?)
2. Bought from Kragen online a Bosch Premium Oxygen Sensor (Part#13354) for $99. Checked the resistance between terminals +B and HT and it's 8.8ohms

Questions:

1. Are these the correct locations of each sensor?

• Bank 1, Sensor 1 = upstream (pre-catalytic), rear manifold sensor, near firewall [Picture A]
• Bank 1, Sensor 2 = downstream (post-catalytic), access from underneath car [Picture B]
• Bank 2, Sensor 1 = upstream (pre-catalytic), front manifold sensor, easily accessed under hood [Picture C]

[Picture A]: Bank 1, Sensor 1 ???



[Picture B]: Bank 1, Sensor 2 ???



[Picture C]: Bank 2, Sensor 1 ???


2. If Bank 1, Sensor 1 is near the firewall, how does one access this sensor? From underneath car? From passenger/driver seat through firewall? (I've taken some pictures from underneath the car and it's doesn't look easily accessed...)

3. Does the Bosch oxygen sensor resistance seem a bit low? (8.8ohms) Shouldn't it be higher? Would a Toyota OEM oxygen sensor have the "11-16ohm @68F" as specified by the factory service manual, and thus the higher price?

4. As an aside, what would happen if I replaced the "faulty" oxygen sensor with an air/fuel sensor instead of another oxygen sensor? Would the PCM understand?

Thanks!

[toyomoho]

The identification is correct. Make sure you replace the appropriate sensor with a similar one. The A/F has a wider operational range then the 02 and is usually used in California certified cars.

Check the post below for other thoughts on this code.

Oxygen Sensor P0135 Code

[dlee]

toyomoho, thanks for the quick response. toyotanation rocks! btw, how did you access the oxygen sensor by the firewall? overhead or underneath the car? it seems like a tight squeeze from both directions. did u use a special tool? (longer wrench, oxygen sensor socket?)

[Eye8Pussies]

an oxygen sensor socket is well worth the money to avoid the frustrations

[Mike Gerber]

I agree with eye8pussies. An O2 sensor socket is the way to go. Depending on how hard the sensor is to get to and reach, you can sometimes use an open end 22MM wrench. Before trying to remove this, lot's of a good penetrating oil (like PB Blaster) is your friend. Let it soak a while.

Mike

[bigg321]

You Must Use 1 From The Dealer The Aftermarket One Will Not Work I've Had This Problem Many Times Where Customers Buy Aftermarket Ones When You Put The Dealer One In The Lightr Will Go Away Other Wise You Will Tear Your Hair Out Its Not An Oxygen Sensor Its A Fuel Metering Sensor This Is A Fact Not A Guess They Range From $140 To $176 Depending On The Dealer

[OEMonkey]

Just a little correction JJ.

It's Air Fuel Ratio Sensor, not Air flow Meter. An AFM would be found on the intake on vehicles equipped w/ one. A/F sensors monitor post-combustion O2 content in the exhaust before the catalyst.

P0135 Heated
Oxygen Sensor
Heater Circuit
Malfunction
(Bank 1 Sensor 1) Heater current exceeds 2A or heater current of 0.2A or less when the heater operates. Please confirm heater resistance specification in Vehicle Repair Manual.


(2 trip detection logic)


You have to use an A/F sensor fr Toyota if the car is a ca. emission certified (look at your vehicle emission label under the hood.) With a 135, just replace the sensor, very common code. And you check resistance on the sensor itself, connector unplugged. Do not do a resistance check on a powered circuit, it'll fck up your meter.

[battlekat49]

i had this same problem and replaced the sensor by the firewall after removing the top of my intake filter cover and everything going up to the throttle body. after that it was just a matter of me lying on top of my engine since im only 5'5 and reaching in there to pull out the sensor.
thing is that my CEL is off but when i plug in my odb2 codereader it tells me that the catalyst monitor hasnt run and its been 3 days now since i fixed the problem. the emission light on the reader is at yellow because of the catalyst monitor not running but the CEL is no longer on. when does the catalyst monitor finally complete the "has run" process?