Alright so here's my short DIY.
I wanted to install the gauges so they turned on with the accesory switch like the stock gauges. So if you want to do the same this will show you a basic idea of how to do so if you don't know. I don't show how to get behind into the dash however. sorry.
Some helpful tools include: assorted flathead and phillips screwdrivers, 10mm wrench, voltmeter, soldering iron, wire strippers, small pliers, electrical tape, wire ties, drill and drill bits, double-sided sticky tape (real thin stuff, not foamy 3M).
The glow gauges come with the faces, wiring, power inverter, and a dial that changes the brightness of the gauges.
I spliced into this wire (second from top) on the center brown plug that plugs into the back of the gauges. Splice the positive wire (all red one) from the glow gauges set into this green/white wire. It provides a 12v power source when the acc. is turned on. This is where a voltmeter came in handy to find the right wire.
This 10mm nut in the lower left hand corner of the dash is a good ground. I just loosened the nut, stuck the red/black ground wire behind it and tightened the nut back downn and made sure the wire wouldn't wiggle loose.
I decided to keep the wires semi clean and organized and tied them up with wire ties.
Here's the dial that controls brightness of the gauges. I found out the hard way that the three wires on my dial were poorly connected and all three broke inside their sheilding, so I had to strip away the shielding and re-solder the wires; otherwise the gauges wouldn't work.
If you have a hand brake, this is where the lever for the e-brake would be on the dash if you didn't have the hand brake. I decided to use this wasted space as a place to put the brightness dial. Drilled the hole and it worked.
I had to remove some of the criss-crossing plastic junk in that e-brake cover-up so the dial would fit.
Here's the dial all done. I used a different dial cover thing (don't know the proper word) than what was sent to me. This one came off of one of my guitars.
All put back together and finished.
The picture is blurry, but don't worry if you were thinking of buying gauges like these, they aren't actually that fuzzy. My camera just sucks.
This took me about 4 hours, mostly because I didn't have everything I thought I would use (double-sided stick tape, my soldering iron stopped working, other stupid crap).
Some general tips:
DO NOT PULL ON THE NEEDLES! AND DO NOT MOVE YOUR FUEL NEEDLE!
If you pull on the needles you run the risk of needing to recalibrate the gauges, and the fuel needle will be miscalibrated right away if you move it. As far as I know though, an easy way to fix a miscalibrated fuel needle is to just fill up the tank and move the needle up just above the F mark. Don't quote me on the fuel needle thing though, I'll report my findings on that in about a week since that's what I had to do
Use double-sided stick tape on the back of all the faces, especially on the tach and speedo. If the gauges are raised up at all the needles may get stuck on the gauge faces and not move smoothly.
Cut a small slit between the odometer reset button and the bottom of the speedo gauge, it will make putting the speedo gauge on a little easier.
Overall I paid 27 bucks for these on ebay from procarparts.com ebay store.
If you have any questions for me about this just send me a message!
Linear Mode
