'95 brakes (v6 sedan)

[toyomofo]

Need to install new rotors and pads all around on the Camry (95 V6 LE) this weekend. Pulled off the wheels tonight to take a look and had a few Q's. I've looked over the dmtrx.ca site (great info) but thought you guys could verify some things.

Front and rear are single piston calipers from what I see, 2 bolts up front and 1 on the rear

front-AISIN L284 (57-28)
rear-AISIN (35-10)

Do you need any special tools (sliding pin)? Do you have to fasten the disc with hub nuts (size/thread)?

I don't have a manual (and never did the brakes on this car) and need the Camry for work Monday, so any help would be greatly appreciated.

Paul

[Mike Gerber]

There is a generation 3 Toyota factory service manual stickied at the top of the General Camry Discussion Forum, that is available for free downloading. Download it and refer to section BR for information on the brakes. It should answer all of your questions and be a good reference guide for you.

From my experience you will need a 14MM wrench to remove the caliper mounting bolts, a 17MM wrench to remove the caliper mounting bracket (Toyota refers to it as the "Torque Plate"), a 4 or 5 inch c-clamp along with an old pad to push the piston back in to the caliper and a couple of bolts (sorry I don't remember the size and pitch) to lever the rotors off the hubs as they are usually rusted on there. I would suggest doing one brake at a time so you will always have the other side as a reference.

Mike

[bronzemaxell]

Originally Posted by toyomofo

Need to install new rotors and pads all around on the Camry (95 V6 LE) this weekend. Pulled off the wheels tonight to take a look and had a few Q's. I've looked over the dmtrx.ca site (great info) but thought you guys could verify some things.

Front and rear are single piston calipers from what I see, 2 bolts up front and 1 on the rear

front-AISIN L284 (57-28)
rear-AISIN (35-10)

Do you need any special tools (sliding pin)? Do you have to fasten the disc with hub nuts (size/thread)?

I don't have a manual (and never did the brakes on this car) and need the Camry for work Monday, so any help would be greatly appreciated.

Paul

buy a big hammer, incase rotor stuck at hub, u can knock it off

[toyomofo]

Thanks for the pointers, much appreciated. Anything specific about bleeding the brakes (using the 2 person method)?

[Eye8Pussies]

nothing special about the brakes on the camry...I've found that compared to many other designs out there (i.e. gm) they are the easiest to work on

as a tip for getting the rotor off if it's stuck to the hub- use the bottom caliper bolt from the rear calipers and it will fit right in the hole in the rotor to pop it out

[nodrogkam]

^ yep nothing special.

Bleeding brakes with 2 ppl is the best.
Start from the wheel farthest from the brake cylinder and work your way to the closest.

so first, Right (passenger) Rear, left rear, right front, and finally (Driver ) left front

[Mike Gerber]

You can bleed the brakes as a maintenance item if you want, however, it is not necessary to bleed the brakes when simply replacing pads and rotors. You do not open any of the hydraulic lines during these procedures.

Mike

[toyomofo]

I'm going to bleed the brakes because the fluid is pretty dark so I figured this would be the time to do it. I got ceramic (blue) pads from carquest, the guy there told me they're OE. But the rotors are Chinese (also from Carquest), don't know how to feel about that. I would have ordered the Brembos but time is an issue. Thanks again for all the responses.

[Venom_5]

lol @ the guy who said to buy a big hammer ... but hey, sometimes thats all you need

and good pads & rotors are always nice, but just remember you dont havta go TOO high quality unless youre gonna be out racing on a regular basis

[toyomofo]

Well, I thought it was the rear pads that were done, but turns out the rotor lip had rotted away and the pads were cracking (chunks were getting lodged between the pads and rotor). I was wondering if anyone knows the torque specs for the caliper mounting brackets (front & back).

[Mike Gerber]

Originally Posted by toyomofo

Well, I thought it was the rear pads that were done, but turns out the rotor lip had rotted away and the pads were cracking (chunks were getting lodged between the pads and rotor). I was wondering if anyone knows the torque specs for the caliper mounting brackets (front & back).

Check the manual I referred to above for the torque specs.

Mike

[Eye8Pussies]

Originally Posted by toyomofo

Well, I thought it was the rear pads that were done, but turns out the rotor lip had rotted away and the pads were cracking (chunks were getting lodged between the pads and rotor). I was wondering if anyone knows the torque specs for the caliper mounting brackets (front & back).

long story- tight with a 1/2" wrench


I usually don't torque things with proper torque even though I have both a good 1/2" and 3/8" torque wrenches. After a while, you should know the feel for things. Also try to note how tough they were to get off in the first place. And also take note of the size of the bolts themselves

[toyomofo]

Well, I torqued everything goodnuff by feel. My torque wrench doesn't go low enough for the rears and the fronts I just got lazy and cranked on till it felt right. The front bolts (which hold the bracket in place, not the smaller caliper bolts) were on there real good, I had to use a cheater bar to get them off. Thanks again for all the help. Smooth quiet brakes now.

[Eye8Pussies]

good to hear

I just changed my dad's front rotors on his sienna yesterday- 1 hour for both sides w/ cleaning and greasing. It's ridiculous how much the dealership charges for a brake job