How To Change Brake Pads and Rotors?

[buzlink]

Does anyone have a brake chaning how-to? I'm getting ready to help my girlfriend change her brake pads and rotors, as the pad has compeltly worn away and dug into the rotor. Also the front driver side had two wheel studs break off while taking the wheel off.

Are there any special tools required to change the brake pads and rotors? How do I seperate the rotor from the wheel hub?

Thanks

96 Camry

[Stillrunning]

Originally Posted by buzlink

Does anyone have a brake chaning how-to?

Haynes Manual - $18

[number73forlife]

Haynes manual ftw and if you have a good tool set all else that you need apply is elbow grease and time.

[ASG14]

And a little tip. If they have not been done in years, get a breaker bar. Trust me on that. $20 at most auto stores.

[buzlink]

Originally Posted by Stillrunning

Haynes Manual - $18

Got one

[Blackhawk3D]

Okay, here's a quick DIY.

1. Take wheels off
2. Pop off old pads/rotors
3. Pop on new ones
4. Your done!

Once you start doing it it's pretty self explanitory, the hardest part is compressing the pistons to put the new pads on.

[goldi5sfe]

no special tool reguired

[toyomoho]

You can find Toyota OEM service info at the link below. If the system has ABS don't force the fluid back into the brake system when pushing the caliper pistons back. Open up the bleed screws to do this.

Be sure to reuse any pads shims or you may have brake squeal. Toyota pads work well and cost about the same as after market. Toyota rotors are much more expensive, suggest Brembo.

Pick up wheel studs at the dealer or autoparts shop (cost is cheap). Use a torgue wrench if you have one to install the lug nuts.

http://oregonstate.edu/~tongt/camry

[mr.pringles]

click for how to replace brake pads
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t92082.html

[marc780]

I just did my wive solara (close enough to Camry?) and the rotors were like $21. each. Since it is like $15 or more to have a rotor turned, and you have to jerk around all day hauling dirty rotors and wait for the guy etc. to get it done, i just got the cheapos!
But you can pay for toyota rotors if you must have the best - i can get by with the cheaper stuff. These rotors work fine and no noise or squaks.

[RningOnFumes]

or another suggestion is to have a couple spares you have ready (already turned and everything) When you feel the need to swap out the rotors do it and take the ones off the wheels to the shop at your leisure.

[chullen]

Originally Posted by toyomoho

You can find Toyota OEM service info at the link below. If the system has ABS don't force the fluid back into the brake system when pushing the caliper pistons back. Open up the bleed screws to do this.

Be sure to reuse any pads shims or you may have brake squeal. Toyota pads work well and cost about the same as after market. Toyota rotors are much more expensive, suggest Brembo.

Pick up wheel studs at the dealer or autoparts shop (cost is cheap). Use a torgue wrench if you have one to install the lug nuts.

http://oregonstate.edu/~tongt/camry

don't listen to him by open the bleeding screws youa re only letting air into the system via the vaccum it is creating on the system just carefully compress the pistons a c clamp works well

[Stillrunning]

Originally Posted by chullen

don't listen to him by open the bleeding screws

Forcing Dirty Fluid Back into the ABS: [From Motor Service Magazine]

We believe the biggest brake bungle techs are making today is forcing caliper pistons back without clamping the hose and opening the bleeder. Since the line comes in near the bottom of the cylinder where the sediment is, this forces debris up into the ABS unit, and that will likely result in a comeback for a glowing anti-lock warning light. Just opening the bleeder as you may have done in the past isn't good enough anymore. You've got to choke off that hose. [Editor's note: you can buy inexpensive plastic pliers with rounded jaws designed to clamp rubber brake hoses without damage.

[bronzemaxell]

Originally Posted by Stillrunning

Forcing Dirty Fluid Back into the ABS: [From Motor Service Magazine]

We believe the biggest brake bungle techs are making today is forcing caliper pistons back without clamping the hose and opening the bleeder. Since the line comes in near the bottom of the cylinder where the sediment is, this forces debris up into the ABS unit, and that will likely result in a comeback for a glowing anti-lock warning light. Just opening the bleeder as you may have done in the past isn't good enough anymore. You've got to choke off that hose. [Editor's note: you can buy inexpensive plastic pliers with rounded jaws designed to clamp rubber brake hoses without damage.

i changed brake pads dozens of time on my vehicle with 4 wheel ABS, i just used a c clamp to push the piston back, some fluid overflow from the brake reservior. no problem what so ever though. as soon as you open the bleeder valve, air can get in or out of the brake system, thus might require bleeding the brake again.

[Stillrunning]

Originally Posted by bronzemaxell

i changed brake pads dozens of time on my vehicle with 4 wheel ABS, i just used a c clamp to push the piston back.

Dozens? How many miles do you get from your brakes? Anyway, I don't know how you take care of your brake fluid. I flush mine once per year so I'm probably at low risk of much dirt in the system. Most people don't maintain their fluid though. Clamping the brake line minimizes the air in the system and makes for a short bleed to pump air out of that part of the system. It also prevents having the master overflow.