3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Hi, I'm new to this forum and am currently repairing a 98 Camry V6 Auto with 186k on the clock. The motor idle fine while in Park or Neutral but once I place the tranny in any of the drive gears; the idle lopes at about 500-600 rpms. During test drives, the idle lopes until I give it alittle throttle, then the motor seems to surge or kick in to running properly. If I press in the throttle more than a 1/4 of the way; it acts like it slightly misses as it is accelerating. It will accelerate but slowly. Now repairs and troubleshooting I have done: I have replaced the MAF(due P0100 code and it tested out faulty), thoroughly cleaned the throttle body, cleaned the idle air control valve and tested the operation of the valve and checked the resistance, tested the tps, ect, vsvs, ignition coil, vacuum tank, egr valve....basically most of the emission and ignition/fuel inj. components. It doesn't throw any codes any more even while slightly missing and running poorly. I keep thinking it's the IACV. Are there any adjustments that can be done to it? I know it has a thremostat on the back of it and it has slotted mounting holes as with the magnetic sensor that controls the valve on the front. Can these be adjusted to change the performance of the valve? Oh, also I have checked the vacuum on the engine. At idle, it starts around 22-20 in. Hg and randomly fluctuates to about 18-16 in. Hg when I place it in gear to make it miss. Thank you for your time.
David
When was the last time you replaced your PCV valve? I didn't see that in your list, it's a cheap item to replace and easy to access. Replace the grommet too, just use caution in removing the old one - use a needle nose or vice grips to pull it out.
Since you already cleaned the throttle body and valve, PCV would be next on my list.
Maybe it would help, maybe not.
Good luck,
- Bluesabre
__________________
1998 Camry LE
5SFE
If you're not livin' life on the edge, you're taking up too much space. (stolen)
Your car has high mileage (but no reason you cant do 100k more, assuming its been kept up); because of this though, I'd start with the basics - i'd do a compression check first. If you find low readings in any cylinders you may just need a valve job, but if this were the case, it would have put on the CEL by now, probably.
(That said, if you do decide to do a check just a tip - removing the back spark plugs on the V6 is hellish at best, so id just check the 3 front ones first. And if you find low compression in any cylinder, quit checking then and there as there's probably no point. And maybe start thinking valve job and maybe new/reground camshafts - unfortunately-)
If your compression in all cylinders is strong, whew, you can probably fix it without going broke. I have some wild guesses off the top of my head: Weak fuel pump (this is rare, as they usually just quit). Clogged fuel filter? Worn out or clogged fuel injectors. Worn timing belt has jumped time or stretched. Worn out camshafts.
Thank you for the replies. Yes, I have replaced the PCV and the fuel filter not long ago just forgot to mention those too. A compression and timing check are next on my list. I have noticed that at fast idle it runs fine but once the motor warms up the idle starts to lope as when place the tranny in a drive gear or putting the a/c on. I wonder if it could be the PCM. Will it throw code if it is working improperly? Because the car also has an ABS, TRAC OFF, rear taillights fail warning(even though I have replaced all the blown bulbs), and an airbag problem indicator lights on the dash. The timing belt was changed at 157K. The injectors all pulsate fine and am running a large dosage of injector cleaner as we speak but haven't noticed any effect what-so-ever.
Thanks,
David
i had a similair problem once, tested everything under the sun, full tune up, comp test, verified timing ect...ect.... one thing you might want to focus on is the coolant temp sensor........ i saw you checked resistance? dont go by the specs, resistance tests on those are bullshit. if you have access to a scantool with a datalist look at the temp reading for the ect. the one i had trouble with would jump around AFTER it warmed up and it would cause it to tel the ecm it was around 23 degrees f making the engine run very rich and foul out the plugs. it was intermittant and wouldnt happen all the time. reading your post, this sounds exactly what mine was doing. it never turned the mil on either. if you dont have access to a data list equipped scan tool just replace the ect senor.... very inexpensive 20-25$ i think? if you do change it, let me know what happened..... just curious.
i had a similair problem once, tested everything under the sun, full tune up, comp test, verified timing ect...ect.... one thing you might want to focus on is the coolant temp sensor........ i saw you checked resistance? dont go by the specs, resistance tests on those are bullshit. if you have access to a scantool with a datalist look at the temp reading for the ect. the one i had trouble with would jump around AFTER it warmed up and it would cause it to tel the ecm it was around 23 degrees f making the engine run very rich and foul out the plugs. it was intermittant and wouldnt happen all the time. reading your post, this sounds exactly what mine was doing. it never turned the mil on either. if you dont have access to a data list equipped scan tool just replace the ect senor.... very inexpensive 20-25$ i think? if you do change it, let me know what happened..... just curious.
This is very interesting. I'm going replace the ECT now even though I have recently improved the idle and driveability greatly by taking the valve cover off and cleaning the PCV components. Also, I'm in the process of replacing the possibly fouled Bosch plugs( less than 10K on them) with the OEM NGK plugs.
OMG! This car is a Pandora's Box. I go to pull out the number 6 cylinder plug and the plug socket won't fit or go on properly. So I try to push the socket repeatedly and trying to turn it but no help. Finally, I get out a small mirror and a flashlight to look into the plug hole and find the rubber grommet from a spark plug socket smashed down around the plug. Then, I proceed to remove the intake manifold to get some clearance. I've used about every tool know to man to try and dig out the grommet. Eventually, a few pieces came out but there is still some around the hex of the spark plug. I don't want to use heat to burn the rest out unless there isn't any other way. Is there a chemical that melts rubber? Any opinions on the situation would be great.
Thanks, David
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PCV Checked?
Then, I proceed to remove the intake manifold to get some clearance. I've used about every tool know to man to try and dig out the grommet. Eventually, a few pieces came out but there is still some around the hex of the spark plug. I don't want to use heat to burn the rest out unless there isn't any other way. Is there a chemical that melts rubber? Any opinions on the situation would be great.
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