3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I have 1996 Toyota Camry LE 4 Cylinder 5sFe engine, and I bought the car used. The car run great with no problem when I bought the car, but now I know the car run rough idle at dead stop (steering vibrate a little bit when you hold with two hands or not holding with two hands).
Here is what I have done to the car to eliminate the rought idle problem.. replaced 4 new spark plugs and with new distrustrutor caps, and wire sets, cleaned body throttle (take off) and cleaned EGR value... I know the engine gas padder now is responding better at acceration...but the rough idle still the problem only at dead stop... not in motion.
I did check air leaks but did not see any.... Does someone has the same problem I had? What did you replaced to fix the problem? I ran out possible clue...Any suggestion I would appreciated? Do you think i should replace EGR value?
the car now has 135,000 miles..and run good..but only problem rough idle(vibrate steering at dead stop).
weak vibrating at the steering (dead stop only), but when i accelerate. the weak vibrating stop... you don't have to hold with two hands on the steering to know the weak vibrating..you can see with you eyes....have any suggestion? the bolds not hold the engine right? does it do on your car when you are still in Motion or does only at dead stop? any suggestion is always appreciated.
it is actually doing it all the time, but you can only see/feel it at a stop
it is your motor mounts, and they do need to be replaced - it isnt urgent, if they are dead your engine wont fall out but the vibrations wont be dampened unless you replace these
__________________
R.I.P. '95 Camry LE | Welcome "Blurple" '96 240SX SE Buy My Weapon-R Intake [Here] http://sck388.mybrute.com
Is this something I can do myself? you know where i can get instruction how to replace the motor mounts? Do you know the cost to have the motor mounts replaced ?
If you are proficient with tools and have the ability to jack up the car and work under it if needed, then yes you can replace the motor mounts. There are a couple of different techniques for checking which mount has went bad, but if none have ever been replaced, some people just replace all for good measure. A search on this site will bring up most of those :-)
For the front and rear mount, make sure you get the hydrualic mounts, not the solid mounts.
__________________ Current Ride(s): 08 Pontiac G8, 02 Mitsubishi Lancer, 94 GMC Sierra
Former Ride(s): 93 Camry SE V6 5-Speed , 95 Camry DX 4-cyl
how many motor mounts on 1996 Camry Le 5sfe engine 4 cylinder ? is this costly to get fix? you think dealer is the best choice to get them check out the motor mounts?
Updated on rough idle only at dead stop. this weekend I checked the engine mounts by pressing down with both hands on the center metal near radiator. When you do that, you look for the front Engine mouting for play (up or down). If it does, replaced. Mine front engine mounts has a lot of play (up and down), so I replaced. When you check both, do a test drive. Turn a sharp turn 360 degree and if you hear clicking sound or something sound like clcicking and clicking on front wheel. this problems are happen to my 1996 Toyota Camry LE 4 Cylinder with 136,000 miles. Also, I know my Engine moving control rod was cracking...and I repalced both at the same time. I bought both at AutoZone...the front and rear engine mounts cost for me 132.00 (each) and I replaced both front and rear eninge mounts and control moving rod. The control moving rod cost $90 at AutoZone. now, the problem rough idle went away. I spend one day on Saturday with my buddy to replaced the engine mounts. I replaced one at a time to see if the rough idle went away. the replaced the front first..the front engine mount was easy. All you have to do, block both back wheels with a brick or something that prevent a car move backward. the engine need to be off and in Parking. Using the strong jack with hydronlic position under your oil pan...be care to put a block of wood on top of the hydrolic to contact with oil pan..to pevent put a dend on it. then start take out the nuts (right first)..the nut is under the car so you have to use the socket to put under to loss it. next, start yout second left nuts and the rest of nut... Now, this is where you need to raise by using the hidrolic jack to raise a little up to take the front mount off...then put a new one in..revese torqe them down... use your hands to handle tight to get in the thread before using the socket to torqe them down. one you get in all the nuts then torqe them down...then release the hidroylic down... this time you do a test drive to see if the rough idle went away....if not, wait for your engine to cool down before you start the rear eingine mount... on my, i took the front off..the rubber insulator(outside) was broken...since my car with 136,000 miles..I went ahead to replaced the rear, too...my rear was not the problem to cause the rough idle..the front and control mount were the problem...one i replaced the front, i went spend a little more $ to replaced the rear mount to prevent further on the road. hope this help people have the same problems I have had.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
ToyotaNation.com is an independent Toyota/Lexus enthusiast website. ToyotaNation.com is not sponsored by or in any way affiliated with Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc. The Toyota, Lexus and Scion names and logos are trademarks owned by Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc.