92 Camry, auto slips in reverse only...

[Fantomas]

I re-acquired my old 92 Toyota Camry, this was basically my first car when I turned 16. Now nearly 6 years later my sister asked me to help her get rid of it, her and her husband thought it had a rod knock. Out of pure boredom I investigate and it turned out to be a blown distributor cap because of oil in the plugs the radiator was also blown. I basically got a free car.

Now about $350 (radiator, hoses, thermostat, distributor cap, plug wires, plugs, valve cover gasket) in brand new parts the car runs perfectly except the reverse slips. It's been like this for a while but I am told it was getting worse before the cap blew. Car is road worthy now so I was thinking of going down to an oil change place for transmission flush, doubt that will fix it but who knows.

If anybody has any suggestion as to why it might be like this or how I could fix it I would really appreciate it.

[Stillrunning]

I would get the trans fluid flushed and refilled as well as add this to the clean
fluid - http://www.transmaticsc.com/

I usually don't advocate additives to solve mechanical problems but transmissions are so expensive to remedy that a $30 try is worth the effort. I have used this product twice with success both times in different vehicles. Give it a shot.

[Fantomas]

Thanks for your help. I'll get the fluid changed when the place opens, only 6:30am here. I insured the car and took it for a test drive a few minutes ago and have some more observations.

Stall speed in D = 2500 RPM
Stall speed in R = 2800 RPM

Lock up doesn't seem to work @ 65mph in D.

If I'm driving along at 25 mph in 2 and I let off the gas the engine goes back to just a bit above idle.

[Fantomas]

Went to a shop while doing an oil change asked them to drain and fill the transmission as well, the fluid looked absolutely horrible when it came out, 2 quarts out, 2 quarts in. Yesterday I picked up a gasket + filter/pickup and drained the transmission, replaced the pickup and refilled it with 3 quarts. Car feels the same, reverse still slips, harsh in 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th shifts and won't hold gear (meaning I take off from a stop in L get to about 20mph and let off the gas, the rpms just drop to idle).

Reverse doesn't bother me as bad as the fact it won't hold a gear, no engine braking.

Anybody else have any advice?

[Eye8Pussies]

the transmission sounds toast...

since you seem mechanically inclined....may as well swap in a transmission. you should be able to pick up a used one from a junker for a couple hundred bucks

[SilvaCam92]

my camry did (does) the same thing.. it doesnt slip in reverse.. but in o/d it doesnt hold the gear.. when you let off the gas the rpm goes to idle and the car pretty much rolls. i was actually starting to have tranny problems with it in the end. it started to smoke after long drives and it couldnt make up its mind what gear it wanted to go in when you were on the highway.

[Fantomas]

Originally Posted by Eye8Pussies

the transmission sounds toast...

since you seem mechanically inclined....may as well swap in a transmission. you should be able to pick up a used one from a junker for a couple hundred bucks

I have learned to distrust junk yards and used auto parts places. Even if they do offer a warranty I still have to spend time pulling the defective tranny and cashing my refund check or at best sitting around waiting for a replacement tranny

[Eye8Pussies]

...then go buy a brand new one if you're paranoid....

but I'd rather save a couple grand and have to rent a car for a couple of days while they find you a replacement than pay through the nose for a rebuilt or new one...

[Unco]

^^ i agree on both counts: that your transmission is shot and that it only makes sense to buy a 2nd hand transmission from a junkyard for a 1992 car. they're heavy things to pull in and out, but the job itself is relatively straight forward. you just need patience and good equipment.

[ag6286]

before you go wasting money on a junkyard tranny CHECK YOUR SOLENOIDS! they control shifting pressures for the clutches, if there is not enough pressure, then it won't get into gear, or it will take awhile until you build more pressure from the engine at higher RPM

[Fantomas]

All forward gears work great except when coasting down hills, even if you downshift the RPMs are near idle. Does the car know to hold the gear electronically or would solenoids be responsible for that?

[ag6286]

The solenoids are electronically controlled and pressure controlled. There is a solenoid, more specifically, for reverse, atleast for the V6 models (not sure bout I4) and if its not building enough pressure because of a leak/its age it will have much trouble going into gear. As far as your forward gear issue, i don't understand what you're saying, explain it a lil more in depth.

[Doctor J]

In this case you may be able to replace o/d assembly as when C0(overdrive) clutch fails to hold.Refer to service manual for more details. This procedure could be done without transmission removal.

[Fantomas]

Originally Posted by ag6286

The solenoids are electronically controlled and pressure controlled. There is a solenoid, more specifically, for reverse, atleast for the V6 models (not sure bout I4) and if its not building enough pressure because of a leak/its age it will have much trouble going into gear. As far as your forward gear issue, i don't understand what you're saying, explain it a lil more in depth.

Imagine this, you are at a stop sign before a downslope, you put the car in L (1st gear only) and accelerate to 20mph, the rpm should be about 2500 to 3000. You let off the gas and expect compression braking to keep your speed in check. Instead the RPM gauge drops and the car picks up speed as if you just dropped it into neutral. If you press the gas the engine will rev up freely to where it should be in the rpm before propelling the car.

It does this is every gear but o/d. I suspect this to be electronic failure.

[Stillrunning]

Fantomas, if you are not getting power to shift solenoids or a solenoid is bad then only an electrical fix will work. But if this is an internal pressure problem then adding the trans product additive I linked to is worth a try.