Rear strut removal, HELP! - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

Curry · 07-02-2007, 07:49 PM

Ok so i was putting on the eibach springs and tokico struts today and ran into a problem on the rears. I got both those big bolts and nuts out and the one for the brake line... Im having problems getting the stabilizer end link off.

I already broke both boots on it and figured ill just buy some new ones tomorrow...

Anyway I got the nut lose but it just spins along with the stud. My hex key just rounded out the stud. I already tried penetrating oil and WD40.

i used a dremel and made a straight line across the stud head to see if I could use a big flat head, but that's not working either...

Should I just try to chop the stud off and install new rear stabilizer links?

Can I get them locally from like autozone or pepboys or do they have to be ordered?

bigbird · 07-02-2007, 09:39 PM

well if uve stripped the hex key hole on the end link and ripped the boots then id just get a new one. no oil is gonna get that loose. i had a similar problem on my old camry. i ended up getting some jb weld and putting a piece of metal(i used my hex key since i had extra) in the hex hole and let it set it worked for me. or u could just cut it off. however, it helps to make sure that the rear hub is at the right height, that will make the nut easier to remove since the end link is not under load. u can usually tell if the link can wiggle a little at the joints.

***Eye8Pussies*** · 07-02-2007, 10:42 PM

you should be able to clamp the back of the hex stud (where the boots are) using locking pliers and then get them off that way.....after doing my buddy's celi, I won't even touch the hex part anymore and I just go straight for the pliers

I'd warn you to watch out for the boots and try not to damage them, but that seems a moot point now for you

Curry · 07-02-2007, 10:52 PM

hahah no big deal. Easy enough to replace. I will try that to see if I can get the other one off without damaging the boots.

btw. that fuel reg we have. is there a way to chop that plate off that it uses to mount to the block? I was thinking about reusing it, just need to drill and tap the hole a little bigger.

Mike Gerber · 07-03-2007, 01:57 PM

In my area NAPA carried the swaybar end links in stock, at least for my generation 4. They were around $50 each.

As a side note, WD-40 doesn't work that well as a penetrating oil. Try some PB Blaster.

Mike

***Eye8Pussies*** · 07-03-2007, 02:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Curry

hahah no big deal. Easy enough to replace. I will try that to see if I can get the other one off without damaging the boots.

btw. that fuel reg we have. is there a way to chop that plate off that it uses to mount to the block? I was thinking about reusing it, just need to drill and tap the hole a little bigger.

hmmm....you COULD I suppose....but I wouldn't, just in the fact that the stock plate on the fpr is really thin. If you were to put a fitting on to the plate, you would also then have to figure out a way to tap (or at least make bigger) the end of the fuel rail as well...kind of risky that way if you ask me...

I went with a thicker adaptro plate so that the fitting wouldn't have to go beyond the thickness of the mounting plate so I wouldn't have to touch the fuel rail itself

Curry · 07-03-2007, 02:56 PM

Interesting. Ill see if I can have my friend fab one up for me then or see if the shop will do it when i go. Thanks!

CrawlingEye · 07-03-2007, 03:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eye8Pussies

you should be able to clamp the back of the hex stud (where the boots are) using locking pliers and then get them off that way.....after doing my buddy's celi, I won't even touch the hex part anymore and I just go straight for the pliers

I'd warn you to watch out for the boots and try not to damage them, but that seems a moot point now for you

For sure, either that or just throw it in a vice and clamp down on it as hard as possible, put some nice comfy gloves on and spin the whole assembly.

bronzemaxell · 07-03-2007, 04:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CrawlingEye

For sure, either that or just throw it in a vice and clamp down on it as hard as possible, put some nice comfy gloves on and spin the whole assembly.

i used a midsize c clamp, a 3/8" ratchet wrench and a 5mm hex bit for ratch wrench on the stubborn swaybar link bolt, one end of the C-clamp on the back of the boot, the other end on the wrench. i was able to hold the hex stud pretty firm, while i was turning the turn, nut became very hot, there must be a lot of friction on the rusted bolt and nut. what i supposed to do was wd40 that nuts once a day for a week, and drive it, let the vibration on the suspension do the work.

***Eye8Pussies*** · 07-03-2007, 09:07 PM

^ just as mike gerber said....wd40 doesn't work that well...

wd40 is a lubricant, not designed specifically for loosening nuts/bolts

use ACUTAL penetrating oil for a day or two before hand and it will make life a lot easier

Curry · 07-03-2007, 09:28 PM

Yep that pb blaster rocks. I sprayed all the spots today so i can put the remaining 3 struts and springs on tomorrow and replace those damn links. I have a front one broken also from way back. After that it needs alignment. Good to go after that.

***Knailgun*** · 07-04-2007, 10:02 AM

dammit I want to see my suspension live on through your car

rock on.....pics pics pics

Curry · 07-04-2007, 10:20 AM

lol dont worry it should be done by tomorrow. We're doing some remodeling on the house so i've been a bit backed up with my project. I also need to leave your feecback which i will be doin a few.

Blackhawk3D · 07-04-2007, 10:26 AM

I used an impact gun. But I had a full shop to use so