Changed front brake pads. Questions.

[etc]

As usual, the Haynes manual is wrong about several things, even about such simple things. You do not have to unbolt the bolt where the brake hose goes to.

It says to squeeze the brake pads before you remove the caliper, I did it after.

Also, it recommends unscrewing the master cylinder cap, I have never heard of anyone else suggest that. Maybe something specific Camry?


Anyway, question -- I found one of my caliper bolts (Whatever they are called) frozen. The bottom one on one size. I couldn't squeeze it in by hand. I don't mean the caliper itself, big cylindrical one, but the small part where the bottom bolt that holds the caliper screws into, the 14mm size, with the rubber cover.

I beat on it with a hammer and it moved. Is it dead?

[Stillrunning]

Originally Posted by etc

As usual, the Haynes manual is wrong about several things, even about such simple things.

You do not have to unbolt the bolt where the brake hose goes to.

From Haynes: "the center arrow points to the brake fitting bolt, which SHOULDN'T be unscrewed unless the caliper is being completely removed."

It says to squeeze the brake pads before you remove the caliper, I did it after.

The reason for doing it before you remove the caliper is so you can use a large C-clamp. If you do it after then a special piston compressor tool is needed - unless you use channel locks, which can be a pain. I prefer to use the piston compressor tool.

Also, it recommends unscrewing the master cylinder cap, I have never heard of anyone else suggest that.

If you squeeze brake fluid back into the master cylinder there is a possibility that you can over pressure the plastic reservoir and crack it. Safe policy is to loosen the cap.

Anyway, question -- I found one of my caliper bolts (Whatever they are called) frozen.

I think you mean the caliper slide pins, name used in Haynes.

I beat on it with a hammer and it moved. Is it dead?

Well, if you read the Haynes Manual, which does not recommend beating it with a hammer, you would have seen that it does recommend these pins be removed, cleaned, and lubricated. It is also recommended that you clean and lubricate the pin bores in the caliper as well. No it's not dead, but it could bind and cause uneven and premature wear on the pads.

The Haynes Manual is not the "Bible", and it does make mistakes, but not as many as people would make if they followed the manual.

[etc]

these pins be removed, cleaned, and lubricated. It is also recommended that you clean and lubricate the pin bores in the caliper as well

It looks like one pin is binding. How do I lubricate it?
And where is the pin bore in the caliper?

[Stillrunning]

If you remember you had to unbolt the pin bolts in order to remove the part of the caliper that has the piston in it. When that was removed you were able to remove the pads. With those parts removed you can separate the pin boots from the pins and slide out the two pins from the other half of the caliper. The pin bores are the machined holes in the caliper that the pins slide into. I use a small round brush and solvent to disolve and clean out the old lubricant in the bore. I then dry it as much as possible with a paper towel and blow it dry with compressed air. You will need high temp caliper grease to re-lubricate the pins and bores.

Most of this is explained in the Haynes Manual, with pictures.

[Yanpapa]

If a pin is binding, it may be bent. After you greased and inserted to a bore, it should move freely. Also make sure rubber cover(Toyota called it Dust Boot) is not damaged.

[qprint]

The bottom Sliding Pin on the mounting bracket has a groove on the bottom of the pin and a rubber ring sits on it. Make sure the ring does not slide up to the top of the pin when inserting it into the bore.