3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Sometimes I have found that spraying WD40 or like down the tracks/guides cleans them up and lubricates them enough to lower friction and increase speed.
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1995 Camry Wagon LE. 2.2 4cyl, 5S-FE, Auto, 187K
I have ruled out low voltage. The failure of the stock motor/relay was due to the excess stresses on the cables/pullies, causing eventual failure of the pullies.....my stock motor still works fine, just the cable is ruined.
does anyone know of a way to refresh/replace the window slides?
there is a rubber seal that starts down by the door speaker, travels up over the window and back down all the way down to about where the red warning light is (on the door)
Remove the glass (easy) 2x 10mm bolts
pull the rubber seal out, if it is filty clean it, most likely it will be clean and supple, mine is from an abused 92 and it was not hardened at all.
get a flashlight, inspect the metal track where the rubber gasket was just pulled from
IF THE TRACK IS PINCHED CLOSED EVEN A LITTLE BIT, IT WILL MAKE YOUR WINDOWS HARD TO RAISE/LOWER
Mine was pinched by the mirror, someone must have hit something with the mirror and it flexed in and bent the track.
I just stuck a screw driver in the track and bent it back into shape, which worked for me.
you can replace the tracks, I'll bet that toyota doesnt charge too much for them, totally worth it in my opinion.
BS. I know for the rubber guide tracks on my 99 toyota camry, toyota wants either 80 or 180 for each. Im pretty sure it was 180 each. I have to live with windows that are slow and that close crooked so air comes through them because toyota fucks you on them.
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'99 Camry I4 - INJEN SRI - Clear Corners - Euro tails - New Muffler - Gauge color mod - More coming soon!
I'm looking for any oklahoma ppl with camrys on here. Let me know.
The problem with mine tured out to be the master switch. The contacts corrode over the years and create a AMPERAGE drop not a voltage drop to the motors this is what can cause slowing and failure of the windows. I have attempted to take apart the switch and repair it but it is nearly impossible to reassemble correctly. My advise is to buy a new one. Getting a used one usually has enough corrosion to cause the same problem.
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