3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Hey, my 1995 Camry A/C has not been a 'cool' as years past. All summer it has been taking forever to cool the car. Eventually, cool air arrives but why does it take so long?
If it was a leak it should not be working at all by now.
I see my 2005 Camry has an A/C filter that needs to be changed. Maybe my 1995 one also has an A/C filter that is preventing it from working as it should?
any suggestions are appreciated.................Folken
No A/C filter on 1995 USA cars. May be low on Freon. There should be a sight glass on the dryer which will allow you to see if the Freon has bubbles in it when circulating (too low).
No A/C filter on 1995 USA cars. May be low on Freon. There should be a sight glass on the dryer which will allow you to see if the Freon has bubbles in it when circulating (too low).
I see what i think are bubbles; at least it's not clear.
Can they top up the freon, even it's this old? I don't think it's leaking becasue it would be all gone by now, wouldn't it?................Thanks Folken
Folken, I have used an honest shop to diagnose what I can't, then fix it myself. See if you can get a shop to do that. Otherwise you can buy an inexpensive dual low/high gauge and a Haynes Cooling/Heating text and do your own diagnosis. Be prepared to re&re the evaporator if it is an expansion valve. Do not fill without a high pressure gauge.
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1995 Camry Wagon LE. 2.2 4cyl, 5S-FE, Auto, 187K
If it has been a gradual cooling decline, then it is likely you have lost coolant or your compressor is worn out. To diagnose it properly, you really need a set of hi and lo R134-A gauges. IF you want to just try adding some freon, then you can probably get away with using a decent lo side gauge and a can of r134-a with the proper fitting for your lo side shrader valve. When cooling and the A/C clutch engaged, the low side should be between 24-34 PSI depending upon the cabin load and ambient temps. If it is higher than that, then slowly add coolant and check to see if the pressure is dropping. You will see the pressure fluctuate between a low value and then slowly rise to maybe 35PSI when the compressor cycles. You want to use the lo reading when the compressor is actually on. As you add freon, if you don't see the lo value decreasing then stop. You need to be diigent about this because the freon charge weights in cars these days is so low, you can easily overcharge.
Another thing you should check is the electric fan on the radiator/condenser and if there is any blockages of the fins from debris, plastic bags stuck up there, etc. When the A/C is on, your electric fan on the rad should be blasting away.
As well, check to see how often and how long the A/C compressor stays on. That can usually indicate particular problems also.
Folken, I have used an honest shop to diagnose what I can't, then fix it myself. See if you can get a shop to do that. Otherwise you can buy an inexpensive dual low/high gauge and a Haynes Cooling/Heating text and do your own diagnosis. Be prepared to re&re the evaporator if it is an expansion valve. Do not fill without a high pressure gauge.
thanks for the reply, will keep your suggestion in mind...
If it has been a gradual cooling decline, then it is likely you have lost coolant or your compressor is worn out. To diagnose it properly, you really need a set of hi and lo R134-A gauges. IF you want to just try adding some freon, then you can probably get away with using a decent lo side gauge and a can of r134-a with the proper fitting for your lo side shrader valve. When cooling and the A/C clutch engaged, the low side should be between 24-34 PSI depending upon the cabin load and ambient temps. If it is higher than that, then slowly add coolant and check to see if the pressure is dropping. You will see the pressure fluctuate between a low value and then slowly rise to maybe 35PSI when the compressor cycles. You want to use the lo reading when the compressor is actually on. As you add freon, if you don't see the lo value decreasing then stop. You need to be diigent about this because the freon charge weights in cars these days is so low, you can easily overcharge.
Another thing you should check is the electric fan on the radiator/condenser and if there is any blockages of the fins from debris, plastic bags stuck up there, etc. When the A/C is on, your electric fan on the rad should be blasting away.
As well, check to see how often and how long the A/C compressor stays on. That can usually indicate particular problems also.
dave mc
thanks for the reply. There is no blockage and the fans are working normally.
I see some bubbles in the sight glass, so maybe some freon is required. However, as I said before I don't think I have a 'leak' cause the freon would be all gone by now...I think this sounds like something out of my tech range though. I will see if I can get someone reliable to top it up for me. The A/C is working and cold air comes it's just not nearly as efficient as it used to be......thanks again....Folken
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