3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I am thinking of bleeding my brake fluid...just wondering is there any diff the 2 above???
When bleeding the brake how important is to have a person press down all the way while another person release the bleeder plug???
I was thinking of getting the DIY brake bleeder...how good are they compared to another person to help you out???
BTW for each wheel how many ml should i flush out the fluid???
I got 2x 500ml of brake fluid for the job would that be enough???
I belive DOT4 has a higher boiling point. Your choice as to what to use, either will work. Just use what your owners manual specs. If it says DOT4 do not use DOT3.
Your helper needs to press all the way down and hold until you close the bleeder screw otherwise air may be drawn into the system.
I've only used a pressure bleeder, not a suction one. The pressure one works well once you get the master cylinder adapter on with no leaks. I have three vehicles so I bought the universal adapter and it can be tricky to get on properly. If you want to spend the money I would get the adapter made for the car. I also modified mine with a needle bleed valve at the canister pressure valve which makes it a lot easier to use. The other draw back is the amount of brake fluid you need to do one car because the container is so big. I have to use 2 quarts to make sure the suction straw does not suck air.
I have to do mine once per year due to the humidity here. The fluid turns amber when contaminated so I have no problem seeing the new clear fluid coming through to gauge how much to drain. If you use the pedal method 2 pints should be enough. Do the PS rear first, DS rear, PS front, DS front.
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1995 Camry Wagon LE. 2.2 4cyl, 5S-FE, Auto, 187K
The other aspect that is lost with one person bleeding is the social connection. I actually miss the bonding experience with my wife as she helped me. She got very skilled at it and we had some laughs. Likewise with a not so marital friend, grab a couple of beers and get into a deep conversation about life - even solve world problems.
94_v6_camry, if you use the one person kit with the check valve how will you know the proper amount of fluid has been exchanged? You won't see the color change. I'd also recommend using a turkey baster to suck old fluid from the master and start with clean fluid there.
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1995 Camry Wagon LE. 2.2 4cyl, 5S-FE, Auto, 187K
ive always used DOT4 ... NAPA tells me thats what is specified for the gen3 ... i dont really care if theyre right or not cuz my brakes are working fine
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Ok guys...an updated to my brake.
Just finished bleeding the 4 wheels, does the following seem OK or there is still some trouble with my car????
Now when the car is off (engine not running) i depress and release and each time it's getting harder.
BUT when either i "start the car" or "the car is in motion", i depress the brake and can feel there is little restistance....so just wondering is there still something wrong with my car????
Nothing is wrong, when your engine is on it creates vacuums which help the brake booster, therefore without the engine on you cannot keep pressing the pedal and have it come back up because there is no vacuum.
That is correct. You should still be able to stop or prevent the car from moving by pressing the brake with the engine off though. You just have to push hard.
You should have used most of the fluid to replace the fluid in your system. On the Camrys that I've worked on, I usually use just under 1 quart/ approx 950 mL.
I hope your brake pedal does not touch the floor, engine on or off.
It touches the floor when the engine is "on", that is why i been asking is that normal.
When it's off each press on the pedal it get harder.
So what sort of problems do you think i have???
I already said that if you press it repeatedly and it becomes harder to push that NOTHING is wrong that is normal. But when you are driving and stop the pedal should not be able to reach the floor, you might've let air in your brake system, not have enough fluid, what else I don't know but what I do know is everyones pedal will get harder to press when the engine is off.
It touches the floor when the engine is "on", that is why i been asking is that normal.
When it's off each press on the pedal it get harder.
So what sort of problems do you think i have???
Derrick
No ,touching the floor is not normal.Please look at the gen3 toyota brake manual.I believe it should have a inch or more above the floor,at some 110 pounds of force.
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It could be any of the below.I would follow the 1 car distance per 10 mph rule until you get these checked out.
1. there is air the system.
2. you have not adjusted your rear brakes.
3. your master cylinder is faulty and is letting fluid back past the o-rings.
when the pedal gets harder each time ,it only indicates that the power booster is holding a vaccum and not much more.
keba
ok,I didnt get thro MIC0417 's post after I read yours.He is quite accurate RTF(Gen3 Toyota Brake)M
94_v6_camry, you need to understand the difference between what MIC0417 describes (pedal gets harder with pumping) and having air in the system. On a properly operating power assist system when you pump the pedal (engine off) you are evacuating air from the brake booster, that is why it gets harder. But the pedal will always feel firm not spongy. If you pump the pedal (engine off) until the pedal is hard then turn the car on the pedal will depress a little, but NOT to the floor. When there is a little air in the system it may be hard to tell the difference between evacuating the booster and air in the system. I've been doing my brakes for years and so have developed a feel for the difference. You should not have to pump the pedal at all to get firm brake feel. If you are in doubt take it to a shop and have them test it.
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1995 Camry Wagon LE. 2.2 4cyl, 5S-FE, Auto, 187K
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