help stereo tronle draining battery

[jaswasup]

Help anyone
I just installed a new amp 1200 watts and three subs 2 x 12 and 1 x 15 "
Prblem is the amp is drianing my battery and it is hooked up on a remote wire so it is only on when ignition is on
DO i need a capacitor or that and a new alternator to up the amps
I eard not to install a second batterry as that is only myth

Please help

Thx
Jay

[Curry]

Forget anything your friends told you about audio.

FIRST go to http://www.bcae1.com/

do the big 3 upgrade on your wires.

If you still need more power. Get a high output alternator.

If you still need more power. Get a second battery and wire it in parallel.

Do you play your system with the car off? DONT DO THAT WITH A REGULAR BATTERY.

You need a deep cycle dry cell to do that.

[jaswasup]

thank you so much

[jaswasup]

whAT is the big three upgrade on the wire />

[Curry]

http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...TID=73496&PN=1

Google is your friend and so are car audio forums.

I suggest your do more searching.

[ONE_to_HATE]

wtF? 2-12"s and 1 15" ?... iDK dude, you're prolly better off feeding the 2 - 12s instead of putting low powers into three subs. -

anyways.. . just grab a capacitor with a LOW ESR rating, don't go cheap or its not gonna matter.. if you're running a 1200W amp- let's say its a top notch rockford monoblock amp, you're probably running no more than 500W RMS.

.. also, if your amp is "draining" your battery- its hooked up half ass bring it to the place you got it installed at or if you did it urself, congratulations- more work comming up!

battery/alt. - hell no, waste of money on the Alt especially. unless you're gonna do a competition grade (2,5xx+W rms) system - then its worth it. but if not- fukc it . Battery, -eh .. if its new leave it but if you're gonna have to replace it maintinance wise, grab a better one. Note: Blue/Red tops don't do shit for you- if you wanna go all out, grab a yellow top.

[Curry]

Originally Posted by ONE_to_HATE

battery/alt. - hell no, waste of money on the Alt especially. unless you're gonna do a competition grade (2,5xx+W rms) system - then its worth it. but if not- fukc it . Battery, -eh .. if its new leave it but if you're gonna have to replace it maintinance wise, grab a better one. Note: Blue/Red tops don't do shit for you- if you wanna go all out, grab a yellow top.

I think you need to do some more research.

An alternator and battery is not a waste of money. The car pulls power from the alternator while its running and will only use the battery when it can't supply enough current. Even then you will still experience dimming.

With a highout put alternator its able to keep up with the electrical demand and keep your battery or batteries charged.

I've done many setups with caps and batteries + alts. The systems with the upgraded alternator and battery performed way better and always hit with full power.

Do you even know the difference between the red/blue and yellows?

Neither is better than the other. They all have specific purposes. A yellow top will allow you to constantly discharge your system wthout doing damage to the battery. Its called a deep cycle battery.

A red top is used for mainly starting the car.

Blue top is used for marine applications but I've seen guys use them in place of a yellow tops.

[Eye8Pussies]

^ a note on the blue-tops....do you know why some guys use them in place of the yellow-tops?



unbeknownst to most, there are actually two different blue-tops...one is a regular marine battery while the other is also a deep cycle battery.

you can tell by the color of the rest of the battery cells- the dark grey is the regular while the light grey is the deep-cycle

[Curry]

jaswasup

What kind of bass are you looking for? Quality or do your want something that hits hard and deep?

if you wanna stay with quality keep the 2 12's

If you want a deeper bass go with the 15.

Don't run all three, it just doesnt make sense.

[Curry]

Originally Posted by Eye8Pussies

^ a note on the blue-tops....do you know why some guys use them in place of the yellow-tops?



unbeknownst to most, there are actually two different blue-tops...one is a regular marine battery while the other is also a deep cycle battery.

you can tell by the color of the rest of the battery cells- the dark grey is the regular while the light grey is the deep-cycle

Ahhh i didnt know that. King has once again shed some light on an age old mystery.

ya learn something new everyday

[jaswasup]

man you guys know so much
Its awesome to be around such knowledge
Here it is
I guess i will try the 15 inch on its own and se what it handles and how it prforms and if it eats my battery
Then i will make a decision to keep one or te other only and dump the other or install it in my other vehicle

Keep me informed and i'll keep you updated
thanks a tonne guys
Jaswasup

[ONE_to_HATE]

Originally Posted by Curry

I've done many setups with caps and batteries + alts. The systems with the upgraded alternator and battery performed way better and always hit with full power.

I call bullsht. You don't need cap+ batt + alt to make a system doing 600W RMS (if that) run well and top notch. Definetly not an Alternator- c'mon now.. I'm doing a 500rms. on a Memphis PRD amp bridged down to 1.ohm with two DVC Polks + a Monster Cap. and i don't get shtted on by my ORIGINAL 8yr. old battery and alternator. Whatever you've been doing for 1200max amp is much much too much.

Originally Posted by Curry

Do you even know the difference between the red/blue and yellows?

Neither is better than the other. They all have specific purposes. A yellow top will allow you to constantly discharge your system wthout doing damage to the battery. Its called a deep cycle battery.

A red top is used for mainly starting the car.

Blue top is used for marine applications but I've seen guys use them in place of a yellow tops.

.. what was the problem again?
- oh yeah, discharging..

.. what did i suggest again?
- oh yeah, yellow top.

.. what did you say a yellow top does again?
- oh yeah, " A yellow top will allow you to constantly discharge your system wthout doing damage to the battery."


so relax chief, i know you do systems but don't get in my face tellin' me i gotta research.. trust me- i'll let people know if im unsure.

[Curry]

Originally Posted by ONE_to_HATE

I call bullsht. You don't need cap+ batt + alt to make a system doing 600W RMS (if that) run well and top notch. Definetly not an Alternator- c'mon now.. I'm doing a 500rms. on a Memphis PRD amp bridged down to 1.ohm with two DVC Polks + a Monster Cap. and i don't get shtted on by my ORIGINAL 8yr. old battery and alternator. Whatever you've been doing for 1200max amp is much much too much.

Theres no need for all three.

What I am saying is, you either get a cap or you get a battery + alt.

The battery + alt will be much more beneficial than just a cap.

Like i suggested from the beginning.

Proper wiring and a big3 upgrade will more than likely solve the problem. No need for a cap, battery or alt.

[Curry]

Originally Posted by ONE_to_HATE

.. what was the problem again?
- oh yeah, discharging..

.. what did i suggest again?
- oh yeah, yellow top.

.. what did you say a yellow top does again?
- oh yeah, " A yellow top will allow you to constantly discharge your system wthout doing damage to the battery."

Now why would the battery discharge if the car is running? Hmmm sounds like an alternator problem...... A yellow top wont fix that problem. It will only save you from having to buy many batteries.

The issues still remains. there is either a wiring problem or he's just pulling too much juice for the alt to handle.

For all you know the alt could be bad.

[ONE_to_HATE]

I see, the way you answered his question was with the big picture in mind which the entire electrical including the alternator but the way i answered it was only what he stated. My bad, - i mean definetly we can argue this through.. but there wouldn't be a point to it.