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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 08-07-2007, 11:20 AM   #1 (permalink)
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4th Generation Ok

Ok well i just screwed up cuz I took my camry to the dealer and payed 95 dollars to figure out why my abs light was on and my shifter wouldnt shift out of park, come to find out that it was due to the wire for my subwoofer which was wired to a fuse in my fuse box and was a complete waste of 95 dollars, but anyways just a question how do i actually wire my subwoofer or amp wire whatever it is to my fuse box correctly, keep in mind i have a stock deck, i dont have an aftermarket deck
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Old 08-07-2007, 11:25 AM   #2 (permalink)
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why is you amp wired to the fuse box? the power should go directly to the battery and have its own fuse along the way. the ground wire should be connected somewhere near the amp. and the only wires left (the 12v signal wire and speaker/RCA wires) should come from the back of the stock HU.
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Old 08-07-2007, 11:33 AM   #3 (permalink)
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aftermarket sub? If so that is an absolute no-no when wiring your subwoofer you never go through the fuse box. If it was the stock wiring I would assume it would be a mistake on their side unless you mess with it
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Old 08-07-2007, 11:43 AM   #4 (permalink)
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ghettosled's right. The main power lead to the amp should connect directly to the positve post of the battery with a fuse. I used 4 gauge wire and a 50amp inline fuse. The ground wire can be connected to any metal surface near the amp. The control wire from the amp (usually blue) can be spliced into the remote wire of the power antenna with a wire tap connector. You may need a wire diagram for your car to find the correct wire. All thats left is the audio signal leads to the amp, and your good to go.
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Old 08-07-2007, 11:52 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uibalnme
ghettosled's right. The main power lead to the amp should connect directly to the positve post of the battery with a fuse. I used 4 gauge wire and a 50amp inline fuse. The ground wire can be connected to any metal surface near the amp. The control wire from the amp (usually blue) can be spliced into the remote wire of the power antenna with a wire tap connector. You may need a wire diagram for your car to find the correct wire. All thats left is the audio signal leads to the amp, and your good to go.


holy moly, 4 gauge... i thought mine was beefy with 9 gauge.
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Old 08-07-2007, 11:53 AM   #6 (permalink)
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same as the others, u never want to wire an amp to a fuse box. i suggest u get an aftermarkt deck. it will help simplify the system.
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Old 08-07-2007, 11:57 AM   #7 (permalink)
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9 guage running how much power???

Im running 4 guage just for like 600wrms
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Old 08-07-2007, 05:51 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Yeah, 4 gauge for me. Bigger wire means maximum, clean power. I've got a 1000 watt amp pushing Pioneer D-series speakers front and rear. I also have a 340 watt amp running a set of Aura Audio bass shakers under the front seats. They give me the rumble without having to give up the trunk space for an actual subwoofer setup.
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Old 08-07-2007, 06:44 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uibalnme
Yeah, 4 gauge for me. Bigger wire means maximum, clean power. I've got a 1000 watt amp pushing Pioneer D-series speakers front and rear. I also have a 340 watt amp running a set of Aura Audio bass shakers under the front seats. They give me the rumble without having to give up the trunk space for an actual subwoofer setup.
Why would you put 1000 watts to speakers and 340 to subs, or bass shakers whatever, why???
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Old 08-07-2007, 08:21 PM   #10 (permalink)
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The 1000 watt amp is 250 watts X 4ch. My door speakers can handle 260 watts max, and my rear speakers can handle 350 watts max. As far as the 340 watt amp, it was the cheapest one I could find when I installed my bass shakers, but could still give them full power. The bass shakers operate between 20-80hz so I can feel the bass. They only need 50 watts rms and 75 watts max.
http://www.aurasound.com/

So, it makes perfect sense for me to put 1000 watts to my speakers and 340 watts to my bass shakers.
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Old 08-08-2007, 07:13 AM   #11 (permalink)
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i always thought the watts rating on the amp was the total output? i have a 100 watt 2-channel amp. so ive been assuming this for years that i had 50 watts per channel. d'oh!
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Old 08-08-2007, 08:56 AM   #12 (permalink)
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As others have said, you want the amp connected directly to the battery. There is a power-on cable which usually connects to the power antenna wire on your deck, so it turns off and on with your stereo.
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Old 08-08-2007, 10:32 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghettosled
i always thought the watts rating on the amp was the total output? i have a 100 watt 2-channel amp. so ive been assuming this for years that i had 50 watts per channel. d'oh!
I think that would be correct?

1000W= 250x4 or 500x2.
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Old 08-08-2007, 10:32 AM   #14 (permalink)
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ghettosled you have to check specifically for your amp and what the rated w rms are. many companies try to advertise their amps with the max output so they look powerful while running much less rms. its the rms value that counts so just see how much rms ur amp sends and then you can see if you are giving enough power to ur speakers
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Old 08-08-2007, 10:49 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Yeah, my 1000 watt amp is running about 80 watts rms X 4ch. My front speakers run at 60 watts rms, and the rears run at 80 watts rms. So, My 1000 watt amp is a perfect match to my speakers. Trust me folks (MIC0417) I've done my homework when it comes to car audio.
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