3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
On 1996 Camry LE 2.2 my right rear window doeasn't work. I checked swith on that particular door and its working as well as the window motor/regulator. I have another camry that I swap parts with to test them so I know that they both work. I manually pulled that window up and I was able to roll it down with a switch but it doesn't go up! At the same time I have a problem with power locks. Using master switch on driver's side I can lock all locks up but I'm not able to unlock them! But when I press passanger's lock/unlock button they unlock and lock just fine. I checked master switch on my other camry and it works perfect so it's got to be something else. But what though???? So, so far I know that master switch and remaining door switches are working ok as well as motor for the malfunctioning window. I checked wiring in every single door and it looks normal, no craks. The remaining windows work fine. These two: broken window and malfunctioning locks must be related together???
Can you guys help me? I'm running out of ideas. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Last edited by rebiszkrzys; 08-26-2007 at 12:21 AM.
Sometimes moisture and humidity can get into the door and window switches and cause problems. Just leaving a window open to the rain can do it .... more so on an older car.
... Suggest switching out the Main Power Relay and see if you still have the same set of problems. See the discussion here for location of MPR and other helpful hints. http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t206315.html
... Not sure if window and door lock problem are related .... could be. For clarity, try to describe symptoms specifically using terms like master window switch, remote window switch, master door lock, and remote door lock.
.... Forgot to mention, when changing out relays and other electrical parts, it's a good idea to buy a can of electrical contact spray and use on all metal contacts. ... Could be that original part is good, but is just not making good electrical contact due to rust, corrosion, or oxidation.
__________________
98 Camry LE, 2.2L, automatic
50k miles, drop in K&N A/F recent timing belt, water pump
Thanks a lot for your promt reply. I'll try swaping MPR and if that doesn't help I'll also try to swap DLCR from my other Camry, which doesn't have these issues. I will let you guys know about results.
Swaping Main Power Relay (blue big box behind the 'change drawer' on the drivers left hand side) didn't help! Any other suggestions guys? Any help would be appreciated.
P.S. I also checked fuses in that area and they are all fine.
I also tried swaping 'Door Lock Control Relay' which is located on the right hand side, below glove box (orange in color, looks like a circut inside) and nothing! I have two Camrys now. My primary one is a 93 V6 LE that I've had for a little bit over 2 years now with about 78k miles on it and the other one is 96 2.2 LE, 119k miles on it that I bought about a couple of weeks ago. I plan on selling it soon and this damn window and locks problem is driving me nuts.
Do you guys have any other ideas why one of the windows doesn't work? And why am I not being able to unlock doors from inside using master swich (on driver;s door)?
Initially I thought that the reason why this window wouldn;t work was a window regulator. I worked on these previously and usually people think that the motor is burned but most of the times its just brushes. Thats right just brushes. So i took it apart cleaned it and as I thought brushes were gone. I ordered some of Ebay for $10/10 pieces (versus $60 for new aftermarket window regulator) and installed them. I checked this motor/window regulator by connecting it to other rear door and it works perfect (goes up and down) but when I put back to other door where it belongs, it only goes down, doesn't go up! So it's definately not the window regulator because it's fixed now. I also chked switch on that door and it's fine, it works hooked up to the other door.
As I mentioned before I also checked Main power Relay and Door Lock Relay. I did check wire harness and it looks ok.
OK ... so it looks like you at least have motor operating voltage going to the master switch, and maybe to the remote door switch also. Do you have a test light? There is a green wire with a black stripe that you should find in the vicinity of the remote door switch ... not the door motor but the remote switch. This is the wire that controls the up motion of the door. As you push either the master or remote up switch, you should see the test light go on. Also, you could use a volt meter, and observe something like 12 V when you operate either switch. .... There is also a red wire with a black stripe ... this is the wire that controls the down motion. .... The electrical current has to go through the remote door switch to get to the motor, even if the master switch is working for that particular window .... So if something is wrong with the remote rear RH door switch up position, it could be the source of your problem. If you don't have a test light or volt meter, maybe you could replace the remote rear RH door switch and see if that does it.
__________________
98 Camry LE, 2.2L, automatic
50k miles, drop in K&N A/F recent timing belt, water pump
I will get the test light tomorrow and check the wires out. I did however check that switch on LH rear door and it worked. It's like there is no signal going to that door or sth. Wire harness looks good but from some previous posts I saw that that also could be the case/ broken wire and etc.
Correction:
The green wire with black stripe at remote door switch should show voltage only when the master window up switch is pushed.
The green wire at the remote door switch should show voltage when either the master window up switch or the remote window up switch is pushed.
__________________
98 Camry LE, 2.2L, automatic
50k miles, drop in K&N A/F recent timing belt, water pump
Ok so I did get a test light thing at Autozone for $2.99, usefull little thing. Anyhow I did test connector that you plug in to window regulator. Ther is a green one with a black stripe and a solid red. Green one lights up when I push remote switch up(up motion) and also when I pusch button up on the master switch. Red wire lights up when I push remote switch down only. I doesn't light up when I use master switch to do it. So it all looks like you just described it, doesn't it???
DC_98_CAM do you thing it might be the voltage issue or what? I also double checked window regulator again by hooking it up to my main battery and switching terminals to make it go up and down and it works perfect.
What is going on? Any further clues? It looks like you know a lot about it.
Last edited by rebiszkrzys; 08-27-2007 at 10:58 PM.
If you look at the remote window switch, you will see a solid green wire .... no black stripe.
Does this one light up when you push either switch? The solid green wire is the one which activates the up motion of the motor and window. If you are not getting voltage on the solid green wire, then something is internally wrong in the window switch, and should be replaced.
__________________
98 Camry LE, 2.2L, automatic
50k miles, drop in K&N A/F recent timing belt, water pump
If solid green wire at the remote switch light up, and the window still does not work with either the master or remote window switch, then the voltage is not getting from the remote switch to the motor. Try jumping a length of wire from where the green wire connects to the remote switch to the motor terminal where the green wire connects there.
If that doesn't fix it then try this:
Did you check the green wire with the black stripe at the remote window switch for voltage with master up window switch operation?
It should show voltage for master up switch operation, but not remote up switch operation.
.... Also, light blue wire at remote switch should show voltage continuously .... even without window switch operation.
If none of this works .... try to again describe the voltage status of the green, and also the Green-Black wire at the remote switch.
__________________
98 Camry LE, 2.2L, automatic
50k miles, drop in K&N A/F recent timing belt, water pump
Ok. So I double checked everything. Here is what I got:
1) SOLID GREEN WIRE in a plug that goes into window regulator, lights up when remote switch pushed up and also when master switch pushed up.
2) SOLID RED WIRE in a plug that goes into window regulator, lights up when remote switch pushed down only.
3) GREEN WIRE WITH BLACK STRIPE that goes into remote switch plug, lights up when master switch pushed up only.
4) SOLID BLUE WIRE that goes into remote switch plug, lights up all the times/continously.
There is also RED WIRE WITH BLACK STRIPE that goes into remote switch plug but it doesnt light up at any time.
I checked if this is exactly the same case with the other rear door connections. I pulled door panel of and I performed exactly the same test and it is all the same so wire harness on both doors must be fine.
The door harness that I m working on seems to be ok than because I checked all the wires and they work as you described DC_98_Cam, so I don't know where to go from here.
I also checked the switch by connecting it to the other door and and it works fine.
Once again the broken window does goes down but it doesn't go back up. So there must be sth with the green wire which is responsible for up motion??? Although when performing contunnity /light test it seems to be fine. Do you thing that it might be voltage issue/conectivity issue?
The solid red wire should light up when the master switch is pushed down, as well as the remote down switch .... Does it do this?
Check to see if the red wire with a black stripe at the remote switch lights the test lamp when you press the master switch down.
If it doesn't then there could be a break or open in the red wire with a black stripe, which would prevent either the master or remote up position switch from operating. .... The red wire with black stripe provides continuity to ground for the up switches. The open circuit wouldn't necessarily be in the door. It could be anywhere between the remote door switch and the master switch.
One additional test test would be to take a length of wire and jumper from the remote switch to the master switch, at the respective red wire with black stripe pin terminals. .... Operate both up switches and see what happens.
__________________
98 Camry LE, 2.2L, automatic
50k miles, drop in K&N A/F recent timing belt, water pump
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
ToyotaNation.com is an independent Toyota/Lexus enthusiast website. ToyotaNation.com is not sponsored by or in any way affiliated with Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc. The Toyota, Lexus and Scion names and logos are trademarks owned by Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc.
recent timing belt, water pump
Linear Mode
