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Old 08-26-2007, 06:05 PM   #1 (permalink)
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3rd Generation Overheating experts i need some help

Im pretty good with cars but i cannot figure out the problem as to why my car is overheating.I just put in a new TIming belt,water pump,Seal Gaskets,Thermostat,New Radiator,and radiator cap but my car still overheats.I just dont get it what else could i have missed the fans work on the radaitor and the car runs smooth with no smoke whatsoever.THere is no leakage anywhere ive checked all the hoses and im still stuck.The the problem is that it will heat up very quick i would say probably about 1 mile then the guauge goes up and its getting hot.Im stuck as to what else to look for anyone here have any suggestions i would really appreciate it.Thanks

My Cousin (who is a mechanic) told me it could be 1 of 3 things.1The timing belt could be slightly off.2.THe head gaskets are going bad.3THe block itself might be bad.SO those are the next 3 things im going to do this week but i need to know if there is anything else anyone can suggest before i start doing all this.
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Old 08-26-2007, 06:38 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Did you use an OME thermostat with the giggle valve? If so is the valve @ the 12:00 position? I had this problem using a thermostat by gates and it did not have the giggle valve and I could not burp the air out of the system. If it is not air in the system it could be something worse.
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Old 08-26-2007, 06:44 PM   #3 (permalink)
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yeah i bought the thermostat at the dealer and yeah everything was put on correct.
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Old 08-26-2007, 09:17 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I am sorry that it is not something simple. Checked out your pics on cardomain...NICE
What kind of body kit do you have? I really like how clean the rear is.
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Old 08-26-2007, 10:08 PM   #5 (permalink)
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How did your rad and pump look? If they were gummed up then your block may be also. You could try a flush but it may not help if it's really bad. My guess would be timing but I'm not really familiar with ECU controlled systems. (My experience in actually working on engines predates ECU's when you had to set it with a timing light.) If you're not losing coolant then I don't think it's your head gaskets.
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Old 08-27-2007, 12:55 AM   #6 (permalink)
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A fairly easy way to see if your system is circulating coolant properly and is not clogged/restricted in some way is to remove the thermostat and run the engine. The engine will NEVER heat with the stat removed, providing everything else is working correctly.
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Old 08-27-2007, 01:28 AM   #7 (permalink)
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im gonna try that tomorrow 71Corolla i didnt think about that one.
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Old 08-27-2007, 06:03 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xzbit702
My Cousin (who is a mechanic) told me it could be 1 of 3 things.1The timing belt could be slightly off.2.THe head gaskets are going bad.3THe block itself might be bad.SO those are the next 3 things im going to do this week but i need to know if there is anything else anyone can suggest before i start doing all this.
1. If the belt was off you'd know it by the way the engine ran. The timing would have to be way off to cause overheating, buy that's easy to check with a timing light.

2. If the head gasket was "bad" you'd get coolant leaking into the oil or combustion chamber, also easy to see or check.

3. The block might be bad?? Not sure what he means by that except maybe rust and scale blocking flow or heat transfer. As has been stated a flushing additive might help but if it's that bad to cause overheating no over-the-counter flush will do much.

Question: Did the car overheat before you did the TB change? If not I doubt any of the above.

To check flow you don't have to remove the therm. Just remove the rad cap when the engine is cold and start the car. Watch inside the rad as the car heats and once the thermostat opens you will see the flow at the top of the rad. You may get some overflow as the coolant expands. As for the jiggle valve it is really only important on the first fill to flush air, once the thermostat opens air will flow to the top of the engine. Aftermarket thermostats that don't have jiggle valves have a small orifice instead, but it's hard to see if you don't know it's there. I would suspect air in the system right now. I don't know on what type of grade you filled the cooling system but it helps to jack the front of the car on the first fill to tip the upper rad hose up and help air to escape out the open rad cap. You also should have run the car with the rad cap off to flush air out. I would make sure all the air is out before you go looking for other stuff.
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Old 08-27-2007, 08:22 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stillrunning
1. If the belt was off you'd know it by the way the engine ran. The timing would have to be way off to cause overheating, buy that's easy to check with a timing light.

2. If the head gasket was "bad" you'd get coolant leaking into the oil or combustion chamber, also easy to see or check.

3. The block might be bad?? Not sure what he means by that except maybe rust and scale blocking flow or heat transfer. As has been stated a flushing additive might help but if it's that bad to cause overheating no over-the-counter flush will do much.

Question: Did the car overheat before you did the TB change? If not I doubt any of the above.

To check flow you don't have to remove the therm. Just remove the rad cap when the engine is cold and start the car. Watch inside the rad as the car heats and once the thermostat opens you will see the flow at the top of the rad. You may get some overflow as the coolant expands. As for the jiggle valve it is really only important on the first fill to flush air, once the thermostat opens air will flow to the top of the engine. Aftermarket thermostats that don't have jiggle valves have a small orifice instead, but it's hard to see if you don't know it's there. I would suspect air in the system right now. I don't know on what type of grade you filled the cooling system but it helps to jack the front of the car on the first fill to tip the upper rad hose up and help air to escape out the open rad cap. You also should have run the car with the rad cap off to flush air out. I would make sure all the air is out before you go looking for other stuff.


Back again to air in the system, I had a hell of a time getting the air out of my cooling system. The trapped air even kept my heater from working. I saw on a earlier post where someone used an asprin to hold open their thermostat to bleed out the air. The asprin disolved and the thermostat closed when the engine cooled off.
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Old 08-27-2007, 03:01 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Thanks for the replies guys.SO far i got the timing belt checked and its fine.Now they did a test to see if i have a head gasket blown off and it came back positive.So now we will mess with head gasket and also see if the head is cracked at all.Its going to be a long week .They car started to over heat before we put the timing belt due to the water pump.We changed the timing belt because we were changing the water pump and i havnt changed belt in like 2 years.I will let you guys know whats up with the gaskets and heads.THanks everyone.
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Old 08-27-2007, 03:38 PM   #11 (permalink)
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When does the engine overheat, at hwy speeds, stop and go driving, both. Does running the heater lower the indicated temp any?
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Old 08-27-2007, 04:17 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xzbit702
They car started to over heat before we put the timing belt due to the water pump.
The overheating problem was originally misdiagnosed. Why would the car overheat because of the waterpump, only because it was not circulating coolant. Why would it not circulate coolant; only because the impellers were so worn from corrosion the pump lost its flow capacity - never seen this. Usually the pump shaft leaks and that's why you replace the waterpump.
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Old 08-29-2007, 04:18 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Well after working on the car today on the heads we noticed that they were a bit cracked.So im pretty sure that will be my overheating problem.I sent the heads so they can rebuilt them and i should be getting them tomorrow after noon.Ill post pics of all the mess soon.I pretty that this will solve my overheating problem.
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Old 08-29-2007, 04:19 AM   #14 (permalink)
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by the way which heads work on the 96 I4 camry is it the MR2 or the celica ones i forgot.
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Old 09-07-2007, 07:33 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Well we put the heads and everthing else back on yesterday and the car started but it was shaking.IF i let it run it will turn off but if i press the gas the car stays on but still shaking.We made sure that all the hoses and everything else was put in place so im stumped once again.We checked the timing belt and everything seems to be ok so now we have no idea what it could be.Anyone out there have any suggestions as to what we may have missed.The car turns on but its shaky and if i let go of the peddle it will turn off.
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