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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 08-31-2007, 11:12 AM   #1 (permalink)
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How long would they last

I've been noticing a wierd some from my brakes...so i decided to take a look...and i see thats the rotor has been eaten up...well not terribly eaten up but is messed up. WHen i brake you can hear the metal scraping each other. Yesterday i tired to see if i could remove my brakes...no success...but the whole rotor seems to be gone. My question is how long would they last until i find a way to either have someone pay for them or change them myself
With wheels on


Without the wheels

Heres the right side which seems to be getting the same way as the left is but less severe


And is its possible can someone tell me how to change the brakes...i also want the calipers painted...anyone can help me here?
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Old 08-31-2007, 11:16 AM   #2 (permalink)
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idk what you mean by "Eaten up" but if youre trying to say that theyre thin ... replace them now

you dont need anything fancy since its just a DD, and if you want the calipers painted, now is the time - stop by AutoZone and get some caliper paint and spray them when you have the rotors replaced
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Old 08-31-2007, 11:21 AM   #3 (permalink)
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i posted a similar thread here a while back... i my case the rotor got so thin the brake pad came out completely... Just change them... I did it myself its not that hard just make sure you know what your doin
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Old 08-31-2007, 11:23 AM   #4 (permalink)
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3rd Generation

Yeah, I'd invest in some new rotors and pads. I don't know if anyplace would turn rotors with grooves that bad in them.
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Old 08-31-2007, 11:39 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Vemon when i said eaten up...i mean the pad has completely faded or its basically metal on metal contact
i tired to replace it myself but i had no clue in what i was doing and the manual throws me off even more....and tp paint the calipers would i have to do it now while the rotor is messed up or when i get them changed, or while they are being changed?
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Old 08-31-2007, 11:47 AM   #6 (permalink)
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you can do it at any time, but its best to do it when the rotors are removed since then you can just take the calipers off and paint them, let them dry, and have them put back on at the same time as the rotors

just take it to a nearby shop thats good with brakes and tell them you want your rotors + pads replaced, and you would like to paint the calipers so maybe u can coordinate when they are going to replace them
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Old 08-31-2007, 12:29 PM   #7 (permalink)
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i would think most shops arent keen with the thought of taking the calipers off and giving them to the customer to paint while the car sits on their lift. have the brakes fixed first, then paint the calipers when you get the car back. they arent too hard to paint when left on the car.
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Old 08-31-2007, 12:35 PM   #8 (permalink)
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if you want the job to get done right, paint them while off the car ... otherwise youre always going to miss a spot
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Old 08-31-2007, 12:56 PM   #9 (permalink)
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You can easily swing them off without having to bleed the lines and many people have painted them on the car with no problems. So you might not get the back at all or that well who really cares. It is much easier and I doubt any shops would let you take the calipers while they have the car up because then it is stuck up on their lifts for at least a half a day to a day
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Old 09-01-2007, 03:01 AM   #10 (permalink)
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the thign is i dont kno anything about brakes or brake systems...if i did i would have fixed the rotor myself...and i wasnt; going to mess with my DD...BUT if anyone would like to help me with a step by step process i would go ahead and give it a try, becasue the manual is terrible at those types of things
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Old 09-01-2007, 03:29 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Looks like your pads are gone and your rotors are scored.

You're going to need new pads, and two rotors. Since this is your front wheel, I'd get it fixed asap.

On my car, it was the rears, and I actually had a piston that was stuck out causing this problem.

But to remove the rotor, you're going to want to remove the caliper first. Undo the bolts or whatever, and then put it on a stand or something for it to sit. Once the caliper is off, slide off the rotor, and put on the new one.

Make sure you get some brake cleaner and thoroughly clean that new rotor.
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Old 09-01-2007, 12:35 PM   #12 (permalink)
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1.Break loose the lug nuts but leave then on for now.
2.Jack up the front of the car and support it safely on jack stands.
3.Now remove the lug nuts and take off the wheels.
4.Loosen the 2 caliper bolts. There should be 14MM hex. Remove the caliper and hang it on some wire on the coil spring to keep it out of the way. Leave the hydraulic line attached.
5.Remove the 2 v-shaped springs from the break pads and put them aside for reuse. Don't lose them. Now remove the old pads along with the shims from the caliper mounting bracket. (Toyota calls this caliper mounting bracket the torque plate in their manuals.) Note that the two pads are different.
6.Remove the 2 bolts that hold the caliper bracket on. They should be 17MM. Remove the bracket and put it aside.
7.Using one of the old pads and a large c-clamp (or a large pair of channel locks) push the caliper piston back all the way in to the caliper. You may see some fluid overflow and possibly come out the top of the brake master cylinder resevoir and drip on the ground as you do this. This is normal.
8.Remove the old rotor. It will probably be stuck on the hub, so tap it with a hammer or mallet. If it still doesn't come off there are 2 threaded bolt holes in the rotor. Get 2 corresponding threaded screws and screw them alternately in to the 2 threaded holes. They will lever the rotor against the hub and the rotor will eventually break free.
9.Install the new rotor after cleaning it thoroughly with brake-clean.
10.Reinstall the caliper mounting bracket and tighten the 2 17MM bolts to spec.
11.Install the shims on the back of the new pads and then install the new pads in to the caliper mounting bracket. Also install the 2 v-shaped springs in to the pads. There will be small holes in the pads for this.
12.Slide that caliper over the pads and the caliper mounting bracket.
13.Install the 2 14MM caliper bolts and tighten them to spec.
14.Clean the rotor again with brake-clean.
14.Reinstall the wheel and lug nuts. Do the final tightening of the lug nuts when the car is safely back on the ground.
15.Now go do the exact same thing on the other side.

Two additional things to be aware of. First, do one side at a time so you have the other side to refer to if you get confused about something. Also, when both sides are done and the car is safely back on the ground, pump the break pedal until you feel firm pressure. This will push the brake pistons and the pads back up against the rotors. Do not move the car until you feel firm pressure. It is best to do this with the engine running so the power brake booster will assist you. Now take the car for a ride and make several slow speed stops to help seat the pads against the new rotors. Then do several gradual stops from higher speeds. Try to break easily for the first hundred miles or so. This will insure good seating of the pads against the rotors.

Also, don't forget to remove the wire that you used to hang the caliper on to the coil spring. Don't ask me how I know this.

Mike

Last edited by Mike Gerber; 09-01-2007 at 12:37 PM.
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Old 09-01-2007, 05:49 PM   #13 (permalink)
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thanks everyone....my parents gave me money to replace them so i didnt touch them but thanks fro everyones help. Now he was sparkly whites on her wheels now...but i'll use this information for future references. But its not easy removing those bolts, the mechanic had to use a air drill to losen, imagine how long i would have lasted if i tried doing it by hand...
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Old 09-01-2007, 06:06 PM   #14 (permalink)
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^Did he choose to or did he have to?
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Old 09-01-2007, 09:23 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CamNub
^Did he choose to or did he have to?
Here in the rust belt, those bolts that hold the caliper bracket to the knuckle tend to break.
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