Calliper Brake Bolt Removal Woes - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

nodrogkam · 09-03-2007, 11:23 AM

Bah this happens to me every time i try to change discs on any vehicle...there's always that ONE bolt that just won't ever come off unless i bring it into a shop with airtools.

I've tried breaker bar, wratchet with mallet/hammer combo and brute force. Hell the bit is showing wear already, but the bolt is still good.

Are there any suggestions on what i can do or use to remove it?
- Upper calliper bolt to remove the entire calliper and braket.

Thanks TN'ers!

Stillrunning · 09-03-2007, 03:07 PM

Torch heat? Anti-seize should be your friend.

CamrySExxx · 09-03-2007, 03:12 PM

torch! or go to a buddys with air tools ? deff anti-seize when you re assemble

dc_98_cam · 09-03-2007, 03:37 PM

I was trying to remove a nut on some metal shielding next to an exhaust manifold yesterday. It must have been rusted .... probably shouldn't have tried to work on it since it was still warm. I rounded the edges of the nut with the correct wrench, and vice grips just ground away what was left of any facets. Finally, I got a reasonably sharp prick punch and placed it on a spot towards the outer edge ... so that the punch blow would loosen the nut. After several hammers on the punch, the nut broke loose. The sharp point of the punch was able to dig in and grip the metal that was still there. I guess it was the jarring or impact of the punch that was able to make a difference. .... Might work on your bolt.

aja8888 · 09-03-2007, 03:53 PM

A little PB Blaster and some time may get the corrosion free. Then hit it with everything you have again.

CamNub · 09-03-2007, 04:33 PM

If you round it, best bet is to hammer something that is 1 mm smaller onto the old one.

nodrogkam · 09-03-2007, 04:35 PM

Thank you. PB blaster will probably be my route. I dont want to pay for more installation fees...

and they never used antisize on the bolts, but whatever...i'll see how it goes...

CamNub · 09-03-2007, 04:38 PM

You just need to break it loose. Once it gets loose, you're in good shape.

But get the anti-seize and if you brake a bolt, don't drive the car until you get new ones.

nodrogkam · 09-03-2007, 05:04 PM

hah duhh! thanks for the info tho.

for a camnub u have an aweful lotta posts...

CamNub · 09-03-2007, 05:11 PM

Use a wrench and not a ratchet when you're hammering it.

nodrogkam · 09-03-2007, 07:34 PM

lol i know i should...but hey...im just breaking cheap wratches left n right....hahah

well pb worked, everythings off, cleaned and begning painting some stuff.

haha the driver side rotor was rusted on...pb took care of that too. I dont like how rusted my brembos got...

CamNub · 09-03-2007, 07:55 PM

^You don't ever want to get PB/WD-40 on your rotors. Make sure they are thoroughly clean.

Edit: Good to know you finally got it off though. I hate pounding on Rachets because they just bounce right back.

nodrogkam · 09-03-2007, 08:05 PM

i see...

well i clean all brake parts and what not before and after assembly, definately before the final drive.

CamNub · 09-03-2007, 08:09 PM

Don't ask me why, because i don't remember. I was at a guy's house, and he told me that when he was teaching me how to do my brakes. I think that's why he never used said product when we were tryingt o get my brake line off.

I think it might be because the oil makes it hard for you to remove the rotor, or maybe it makes the pad hard to catch on the rotor. But you want that rotor really really clean.

nodrogkam · 09-03-2007, 08:13 PM

lol well of course u dont want oil on ur brakes...lol! ever tried walking over some oil slick? :-p

Bleh...are anyone's rotors this rusty?