96 Camry power windows problem

[slowmanvns]

Is there a problem withe the gen 3 power windows.
The left rear window is non-functional and the driver's window works intermittently. It will always go down but does not always come up. Sometimes the door has to be "gently slammed" before it works - though this not always the fix.
Is it a problems with the switch or the regulator?.
How can I test the switch?
Thanks.

[-=]KaiN[=-]

your driver window needs a motor and as for the rear window you need to diagnose that to see if it is in the master switch or if the motor is just bad. Also ive seen the rear windows just get stuck to the window runs from heat and not getting rolled down very often.

[dc_98_cam]

There is a wire connector which contains the wires relevant to the problem which you describe.
It is located in the front left door panel. Labeled as connector IH2. If you can remove the door panel and access this connector, you can disconnect it, clean it with electrical contact cleaner spray, examine for obvious problems such as loose connections or terminals, and reassemble. .... Could be something else, like a motor, but check connector IH2 first.

wires to look for on IH2:
light blue, green with black stripe, and red with black stripe ... also several other wires within this connector.

[-=]KaiN[=-]

ih2 is the correct junction, but i would just see if the connector at the motor had 12v when pressing the switch. If so that eliminates all junctions and wiring up to the motor. Im not sure the colors but at the motor you should have 12v on one wire when pressing the switch down and 12v on the other wire when pulling the switch up. If so the motor is your problem. Good luck and happy diagnosing.

[slowmanvns]

So, here's what I found.
No power is being received at the rear left window - I checked this using a voltmeter. I checked the voltage at the motor/regulator connection as well as at the voltage at the switch. (I used the voltage at the rear right window, which works, as a guide which gave me 12+ both at the motor/regulator and at the switch itself).

Regarding the driver window - I believe it could be a switch problem since the voltage at the motor/regulator connection is giving me 11.48. Sometimes the reading did not return to 0 even after I released the switch giving me the notion that the switch is not contacting/releasing properly. I was able to remove the entire switch from the front door but I have no idea how to open it to check/clean the contacts. Could this switch being bad cause the non-voltage at the rear left door?
Thanks.

[dc_98_cam]

Originally Posted by slowmanvns

So, here's what I found.
No power is being received at the rear left window - I checked this using a voltmeter. I checked the voltage at the motor/regulator connection as well as at the voltage at the switch. (I used the voltage at the rear right window, which works, as a guide which gave me 12+ both at the motor/regulator and at the switch itself).

Regarding the driver window - I believe it could be a switch problem since the voltage at the motor/regulator connection is giving me 11.48. Sometimes the reading did not return to 0 even after I released the switch giving me the notion that the switch is not contacting/releasing properly. I was able to remove the entire switch from the front door but I have no idea how to open it to check/clean the contacts. Could this switch being bad cause the non-voltage at the rear left door?
Thanks.

When you say you removed the front door switch, what does it look like? Are you talking about the harness connector, with quite a few wires? IH2 is a blue snap together connector, which could possibly be part or all of the problem. It should be located someplace around the front of the front door panel... you just need to take it apart, inspect it, and clean it.

[toyomoho]

Suggest you download the Gen_3 wiring diagram from the link below:
http://oregonstate.edu/~tongt/camry

Each non-driver window switch receives power from two sources to allow independent operation of the window by both driver and passenger switch. The wiring is a little different then expected because of this.

One common problem is the wiring between the driver’s door and frame become frayed or damaged over time due to the constant opening and closing.

[rebiszkrzys]

Check wire harness and/or window regulator/master switch, these would be the most common suspects.

[slowmanvns]

Originally Posted by dc_98_cam

When you say you removed the front door switch, what does it look like? Are you talking about the harness connector, with quite a few wires? IH2 is a blue snap together connector, which could possibly be part or all of the problem. It should be located someplace around the front of the front door panel... you just need to take it apart, inspect it, and clean it.

Sorry, I wasn't too clear...by the switch I mean the entire assembly containing all the window switches and door lock switch which connects to the wire harness with all the wires. I'll have to look for the blue IH2 connector.

[-=]KaiN[=-]

I have seen lots of older camry's with breaks in the wire harness where it passes through the door and into the driver kick panel. That section of harness inside that rubber boot has to bend everytime you open and close the door eventually the wires break. I have seen this cause speaker problems and window problems all around the car.

[slowmanvns]

Originally Posted by -=]KaiN[=-

I have seen lots of older camry's with breaks in the wire harness where it passes through the door and into the driver kick panel. That section of harness inside that rubber boot has to bend everytime you open and close the door eventually the wires break. I have seen this cause speaker problems and window problems all around the car.

I'll have a look there as well.
Thanks.

[unkit]

Are the gen3 power window mechanisims etc the same as gen4?

[Your Uncle Moe]

Stop what your doing. I had your SAME exact problem! If u search for it you will find it. Throughout the years of opening and closing your door, the wires inside the rubber loom running from your door to the chassis bent and eventually broke inside or around that rubber loom. Ill bet you if you checked there you will find at least 2-3 broken wires.

To test it, Hold the window switch in the "UP" position and jiggle the rubber loom around. If it goes up after messing around with it, then thats your problem.

When I opened mine up, I found 5 wires............ 4 of them were broken!!!!!!!!!

I also had the problem in my left rear window.

I cut off the bad sections, tied them together, soldered them together and then wrapped them in electric tape before reinsterting them back into the rubber loom.

Edit: Just read KAIN's last explanation. Yea. hes right. Im 100% sure thats your problem.

[-=]KaiN[=-]

Originally Posted by Gridlyne

Stop what your doing. I had your SAME exact problem! If u search for it you will find it. Throughout the years of opening and closing your door, the wires inside the rubber loom running from your door to the chassis bent and eventually broke inside or around that rubber loom. Ill bet you if you checked there you will find at least 2-3 broken wires.

To test it, Hold the window switch in the "UP" position and jiggle the rubber loom around. If it goes up after messing around with it, then thats your problem.

When I opened mine up, I found 5 wires............ 4 of them were broken!!!!!!!!!

I also had the problem in my left rear window.

I cut off the bad sections, tied them together, soldered them together and then wrapped them in electric tape before reinsterting them back into the rubber loom.

Edit: Just read KAIN's last explanation. Yea. hes right. Im 100% sure thats your problem.

your right man i have had to perform that repair many times, alot of times i will actually add a couple inches of wire to the broken ones to try to prolong them breaking again. You see this problem with tail lights and other accessories in the trunk where the loom bends on the trunk hinges.