'96 4 cyclinder oil in spark plug well

[smolskimatt]

I'm preparing to do a compression test on my 150,000 mile 4 cylinder and found oil in one of the spark plug wells. Should the valve cover gasket prevent this?

[Isaac-1]

I had the same problem a couple of years back on my '96 4 cyl, the problem is the spark plugs are mounted into tubes that screw into the head (basicly a pipe nipple), The locktite like stuff Toyota used breaks down over time allowing oil to seep around the threads and till the tubes from the bottom. The fix is fairly easy, it involved removing the valve cover, replacing the valve cover nuts (they have rubber seals on one side, replacing the valve cover gasket, and unscrewing the sparkplug tubes out of tthe head (I used a regular pair of visegrips, Toyota has a special tool that lets you do it without pulling the valve cover off I think) Total time was under an hour, total cost about $30 for new gasket and nuts, I already had high temp oil proof locktite.

Ike

p.s. the hardest part is finding the odd size metric socket for the tube nuts

[Mike Gerber]

"p.s. the hardest part is finding the odd size metric socket for the tube nuts"

I believe it is a 30MM or 32MM socket. I'm leaning toward 30MM.

You might first just try tightening those large nuts to spec and cleaning the oil out of the spark plug hole. I did that on my 94 4 cylinder 5SFE engine about 5 or 6 years ago and the oil never returned. A former Toyota tech told me to try that first. I can't remember the exact torque spec but I would try about 19 foot lbs in 3 different passes; first 7 then 13 and then 19 foot lbs.

Mike

[smolskimatt]

Thanks for the information. I appreciate it.

[-=]KaiN[=-]

it is a 30mm same as the cv axle nuts.

[smolskimatt]

30mm is correct. I got one at Lowes and torqued to 17lbs per the shop manual. I soaked up the oil in the #1 spark plug well and after a 50mi highway trip it looks dry. Thanks again for the information.

I still suspect a slow leak at the spark plug tube base. The oil would have to pool up a lot to get past the upper spark plug nut grommets.

Thanks again.

[-=]KaiN[=-]

Originally Posted by smolskimatt

30mm is correct. I got one at Lowes and torqued to 17lbs per the shop manual. I soaked up the oil in the #1 spark plug well and after a 50mi highway trip it looks dry. Thanks again for the information.

I still suspect a slow leak at the spark plug tube base. The oil would have to pool up a lot to get past the upper spark plug nut grommets.

Thanks again.

The cams throw a lot of oil everywhere in the valve cover. I have replaced just the upper tube seals on several 5s camrys for the same complaint. Fixed them all. I have been a tech for toyota for about 7yrs now and I've only resealed maybe 3 cars at the tube base. You probably fixed it, but your doing the right thing keep checking it. After a few hundred miles if your still dry, your good.

[luderunner11]

I know it's an old thread, but I just want you Toyota heads to know you've helped me out drastically on only my second visit to this site. This IS my first post, but I'm a regular at preludepower.com. My uncle has a 96 Camry 4-cyl. and the oil builds up in each plug tube, even after replacing the upper tube seals 2x. So just loosen the tubes themselves and slap on the locktite??? Thanks again.

[phantomotkau]

I know, I know this is an old thread but I just have to put my two cents in on this.

I've had my gen 3 for about two years now... its a beater/wip/pos car for 500 dollars I had to buy because my car got reposessed - long story that no one generally believes so I'm going to leave it out...but I'm not bitter about it or anything.

Anywho, the key to doing his repair regardless of what you may have read elsewhere is to have the proper tools to do this job.
Also if your going to do this job you might as well replace the spark plug tube rings that sit on top of the valve cover but under the valve cover nuts.

Here is what you need to do this job:
Parts/etc:
new Spark Plug Tube Rings (get these at autozone or equivilant - cheaper than the dealer by about 8-10 dollars0
new Valve Cover Gasket (get the one from the dealer - its cheaper and better quality)
Spark Plug Tube Nuts -30mm - (optional - the guy I bought the car from, who did a head gasket on it overtightned them and crushed them - I didn't buy the replacements, I got the 'nuts and bolts' discount from the local junk yard
High Temp locktite

Tools:
Spark plug tube extractor tool - (This runs about 60 dollars - is it worth the buy? Probably is if you a pro mechanic or an above average DIY'er who is constantly building 4 cyl engines that all have spark plug tubes. For the rest of us we have to improvise; I've read other posts that say that they were able to get the tubes out using vicegrips or even pliers. well only if you want to A, cush the spark plug tubes. B, risk putting small metal shavings in the oil. Vicegrips and pliers will score and mar as they slip on the pipes as you feebely try to break them loose potentailly dropping metal shavings amongst your valves. The only substitution tool that should be used for this is a pipe wrench - sometimes called a monkey wrench. If used properly they will not crush or scrape the tubes and give you much more leverage. They are about 10 dollars at Lowes and you have the added benifit of being able to use it in plumbing applications.)

Torque Wrench/Ratchet - Must have for any DIY'er who wants to do the job right the first time. Torque it down to spec - because Toyota says so.
Flat head screw driver - you may need it to get the valve cover up and the old gasket off.

I guess since this is becoming a guide/walk through I might as well finish:

Step 1: Remove the valve cover by removing the 4 30mm nuts that thread on to the spark plug tubes.
Step 2: Disconnect any breather type tubes from the valve cover (including the tube going to the PCV valve)
Step 3: Remove the valve cover
Step 4: Gaze in amazement at how there is an abesence/overabundance of sludge.
Step 5: Using the pipe wrench remove the tubes (making sure to keep them in order)
Step 6: Clean the threads on the tubes with a wire brush.
Step 7: Apply the lock-tight to the threads
Step 8: re-install the tubes and tighten down with the pipe wrench
Step 9: install the new valve cover gasket
Step 10: Replace the valve cover and put the new spark plug tube rings in place
Step 11: Using the torque wrench, torque the spark plug tube nuts down to 17 ft lbs in 3 passes - I went with a 6, 6, 5 pattern.
Step 12: re-connect all breather lines to valve cover.

Note: if you use the tube extractor tool you only need to do Steps 1(only remove the nuts, not the valve cover),5-8,10,11 and replace "pipe wrench' with "Tube extractor tool"

[peshwa]

Originally Posted by phantomotkau

I know, I know this is an old thread but I just have to put my two cents in on this.

I've had my gen 3 for about two years now... its a beater/wip/pos car for 500 dollars I had to buy because my car got reposessed - long story that no one generally believes so I'm going to leave it out...but I'm not bitter about it or anything.

Anywho, the key to doing his repair regardless of what you may have read elsewhere is to have the proper tools to do this job.
Also if your going to do this job you might as well replace the spark plug tube rings that sit on top of the valve cover but under the valve cover nuts.

Here is what you need to do this job:
Parts/etc:
new Spark Plug Tube Rings (get these at autozone or equivilant - cheaper than the dealer by about 8-10 dollars0
new Valve Cover Gasket (get the one from the dealer - its cheaper and better quality)
Spark Plug Tube Nuts -30mm - (optional - the guy I bought the car from, who did a head gasket on it overtightned them and crushed them - I didn't buy the replacements, I got the 'nuts and bolts' discount from the local junk yard
High Temp locktite

Tools:
Spark plug tube extractor tool - (This runs about 60 dollars - is it worth the buy? Probably is if you a pro mechanic or an above average DIY'er who is constantly building 4 cyl engines that all have spark plug tubes. For the rest of us we have to improvise; I've read other posts that say that they were able to get the tubes out using vicegrips or even pliers. well only if you want to A, cush the spark plug tubes. B, risk putting small metal shavings in the oil. Vicegrips and pliers will score and mar as they slip on the pipes as you feebely try to break them loose potentailly dropping metal shavings amongst your valves. The only substitution tool that should be used for this is a pipe wrench - sometimes called a monkey wrench. If used properly they will not crush or scrape the tubes and give you much more leverage. They are about 10 dollars at Lowes and you have the added benifit of being able to use it in plumbing applications.)

Torque Wrench/Ratchet - Must have for any DIY'er who wants to do the job right the first time. Torque it down to spec - because Toyota says so.
Flat head screw driver - you may need it to get the valve cover up and the old gasket off.

I guess since this is becoming a guide/walk through I might as well finish:

Step 1: Remove the valve cover by removing the 4 30mm nuts that thread on to the spark plug tubes.
Step 2: Disconnect any breather type tubes from the valve cover (including the tube going to the PCV valve)
Step 3: Remove the valve cover
Step 4: Gaze in amazement at how there is an abesence/overabundance of sludge.
Step 5: Using the pipe wrench remove the tubes (making sure to keep them in order)
Step 6: Clean the threads on the tubes with a wire brush.
Step 7: Apply the lock-tight to the threads
Step 8: re-install the tubes and tighten down with the pipe wrench
Step 9: install the new valve cover gasket
Step 10: Replace the valve cover and put the new spark plug tube rings in place
Step 11: Using the torque wrench, torque the spark plug tube nuts down to 17 ft lbs in 3 passes - I went with a 6, 6, 5 pattern.
Step 12: re-connect all breather lines to valve cover.

Note: if you use the tube extractor tool you only need to do Steps 1(only remove the nuts, not the valve cover),5-8,10,11 and replace "pipe wrench' with "Tube extractor tool"

Great info on this thread! I opened up my spark tube wells for compression test and boy there was a slight oil at the base of each spark plug and that had me stumped. I would follow your nice DIY.