3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Hello, I just had new cv axles installed on my '93 Camry. The first set did not have abs teeth and so I got the abs light and read the codes stating circuit interruption on both right and left. I had the correct cv half shafts installed. Since the install, whenever I come to a stop, just prior to stopping the brakes grab and release (abs engaged?). I hear/feel the pulses and the car completes the stop. If I brake ever so smoothly I can avoid the interruption. There are no codes or lights. Any ideas?
Hello, I just had new cv axles installed on my '93 Camry. The first set did not have abs teeth and so I got the abs light and read the codes stating circuit interruption on both right and left. I had the correct cv half shafts installed. Since the install, whenever I come to a stop, just prior to stopping the brakes grab and release (abs engaged?). I hear/feel the pulses and the car completes the stop. If I brake ever so smoothly I can avoid the interruption. There are no codes or lights. Any ideas?
If this were not cv axles than I'd say it's time to change struts. I had the same probelem, every time abs engaged if I push prabes a bit harder or the road surface is wet or bumpy, before changing the struts.
I think hoiskii has a valid solution. Certainly if the wheels are not able to stay in contact with the ground then they will not turn at the same rate and will trigger the ABS.
hmthomas, does this happen rough road or smooth road, slow or fast? I guess the other possibility since this just started after the axle install is that maybe one axle has incorrect # of splines. The sensor then would pick up what it considers different wheel speeds. I don't know if it's possible to mismatch axles this way??
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1995 Camry Wagon LE. 2.2 4cyl, 5S-FE, Auto, 185K
If this were not cv axles than I'd say it's time to change struts. I had the same probelem, every time abs engaged if I push prabes a bit harder or the road surface is wet or bumpy, before changing the struts.
Ditto. Replaced struts and it's gone, and plus you have a MUCH improved ride quality, because the struts are brand-spanking new.
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1993 V6 XLE Camry (196,000 miles) totalled 10-17-08
2006 Pontiac G6 GT (147,000 miles)
-License revoked until March 19th
I think hoiskii has a valid solution. Certainly if the wheels are not able to stay in contact with the ground then they will not turn at the same rate and will trigger the ABS.
hmthomas, does this happen rough road or smooth road, slow or fast? I guess the other possibility since this just started after the axle install is that maybe one axle has incorrect # of splines. The sensor then would pick up what it considers different wheel speeds. I don't know if it's possible to mismatch axles this way??
it happens on smooth roads coming to a stop (maybe when it's going 2-7 mph) at a normal (non panic or hard stop) rate of braking. thanks for any input
I found this on a Volvo with somewhat of the same problem you have.
"ABS Pulses at Low Speeds
[Problem]he ABS acts up when I'm driving at low speeds and applying hardly any pressure to the brake pedal of my 1990 740 GLE. The ABS lifts the brake pedal in the same way as if it was locking up.
[Answer]You should remove and clean the front wheel speed sensors. To do this turn wheel full lock to one side and then remove the sensor from wheel that is turned out by undoing a 5 mm Allen screw you will see adjacent to arm where tie rod for steering attaches. Then turn wheel to full lock the other way and do the same on other side. Also unplug and then reconnect the sensor connectors that are in the engine compartment near top of struts. This should effectively clean the connections. This can also cause low speed inappropriate ABS activation."
So you may just have dirty sensors. You may also have a damaged tooth on the spline.
If you are capable I would pull the front sensors and check them. When you remove them you may be able to see down inside to the teeth on the axle. If you turn the axle you may be able inspect each tooth for dirt/damage.
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1995 Camry Wagon LE. 2.2 4cyl, 5S-FE, Auto, 185K
Update....
Well I removed the sensors and noticed that one had a couple of gouges on the sensor surface (maybe from when the cv axel bumped it). The other had some shavings from where one part must have come in contact with the hub. Cleaned them both and put them back. Problem still there. Also, last night while driving in Seattle, the ABS light came on and so I thought, finally, I'll get a code! When I parked it and went to check the code, there was none and the ABS light now is off again.
find the electrical connector for the gouged wheel speed sensor, it should be of the two pin variety. Jack up that wheel off the ground, trans in neutral and e-brake set, plug a dmm into the sensor (don't damage the pins) and set dmm to a/c low voltage. Spin the wheel, and you should get a signal at around 2-4 miles per hour. repeat for other side and see if signals are reasonably similar. That's about the easiest way for the diy guy to check his wheel speed sensors. If a sensor is losing signal early, the abs module would see it as a locked wheel. did you do the work yourself or did a shop do it?
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1996 Camry Sport (that's a DX Coupe with decals) with 186k
european cars are just like japanese cars, just heavier and more expensive.
7 ASE's.
They messed up when they put your brakes back together. I had made almost the exact same thread two weeks ago haha.
same thing happened to me when i got my new brakes this summer .... unfortunately another piece was broken in the rear ABS, so Beaman Toyota of Nashville got a good $500 out of us
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R.I.P. '95 Camry LE | Welcome "Blurple" '96 240SX SE Buy My Weapon-R Intake [Here] http://sck388.mybrute.com
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