Oil consumption nightmare

[Rev8k]

I have a 1999 Camry V6 (5 speed) with 87,000 miles.
The car uses oil way too much. It uses a quart every 500 - 1000 miles.
Yes, it varys. I keep track of it everytime I put a quart in (10w30 Valv Maxlife).
Anyway, it does occasionally smokes (blue) at cold start-up which tells
me it's the valve seats. However, upon research, I've read that it would
not cuase this kind of oil useage. Or would it? Does anyone else have had this
kind of oil usage?

I've also had the dealership check to see if Toyota would cover this utilizing
that class action lawsuit. However, the service manager said after checking
the engine that there was not enough sludging in the engine for Toyota to cover it.
Apparently, the engine does not have a sludging problem but it does have an oil buring problem.
He said it could be the piston rings. But wouldn't the car smoke during driving if that was the case?

Anyway, if the valves are causing this kind of oil consumption, is it worth getting
a valve job? How much would it typically cost? BTW: The car does run fine but now the
check engine light is on. It's probably a bad cat because of all the oil burning. I will get the code
today. Anyway, I'm almost ready to unload this car to Carmax which says they will give
my $3,500 for it. I'm starting to hate this car! I thought Toyota's were supposed to be reliable.

Sorry about the rant. Any advice from you guys will be appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

[dc_98_cam]

Typically, difficulties of this nature are caused by an interval or period when maintenance was neglected. All it takes to ruin an engine is a year or so without an oil change.
... Not necessarily .... there could possibly be a defect or some unusual problem.
Do you have records of oil changes?

[Rev8k]

I bought the car a few months ago from a dealer. Dealers (in my expereince) NEVER have documentation on used cars. However, the CARFAX report on this car was pretty clear that the car was dealer serviced at the proper intervals. I know some CARFAX reports are not always clear especially if the previous owner did their own oil changes. This one however was pretty clear and was one of the reasons why I purchased the car. I've owned the car for about 10,000 miles and have changed
the oil twice. This is why this is such a "head scratcher". The car seemed like it was taken care of.

[Stillrunning]

Certainly 87K is not a lot of miles for oil burning to occur. It could be valve seals as you suspect, it could be the piston rings or it could be a head gasket leak into the cylinder. The valve seals may be able to be fixed without removing the heads if you can get access. I've changed valve seals using the compressed air method on a V6 rear wheel drive, but a FWD may give you access problems, especially on the rear cylinders.

Why don't you do a compression check and see if one or more cylinders shows low. If they do that may lead to a head gasket. I would also pull the plugs and keep track of where they came from. Look for signs of oil burning. Usually if rings are gone you will have lower compression and you will get more or less oil burning depending on whether you are accelerating or coasting down hill. When you coast with your foot off the pedal it creates higher vacuums in the cylinders. The vacuum will tends to draw oil up past bad rings. Frankly I would not suspect rings at this point. Does the oil get dirty very quickly after you change it?

[toyomoho]

As Stillrunning states, find out what the problem is with the engine plus have the codes read. Then make a decision based on the facts.

Are you going to the same dealer for opinions that sold you the car? If so, find another dealer.

If a bad engine, installing a good used engine is usually cheaper then a rebuild.

[Rev8k]

Thanks guys.

I've had the codes checked at Autozone and the only code that's coming up is PO135.
I suspect it's the O2 Sensor. I don't think that's the problem. However the oil problem
may have caused the O2 Sensor to fail.

No. I didn't buy it at a Toyota dealer but I had a Toyota dealer check it for sludging.
But, If Toyota isn't going to cover this then I'll probably not go back. The next thing
Toyota wanted to do is charge me $1,200 to tear the engine down to do a "further investigation".
Give me a break! I think I can get a reman engine for that. I know a mechanic who
actually owns a ES300 with the same drivetrain. So, I'll probaby have him do the
work from here on out. I just want to know where to start.

Wouldn't you have visable signs if the head gasket is bad (dipstick, oil leak)?
And wouldn't you have a degrade in performance if it is the head gasket or rings??
Like I said the car runs well and get pretty good gas mileage for a V6 (25 mpg).

Thanks again.

[Stillrunning]

Originally Posted by Rev8k

Wouldn't you have visable signs if the head gasket is bad (dipstick, oil leak)?And wouldn't you have a degrade in performance if it is the head gasket or rings??
Like I said the car runs well and get pretty good gas mileage for a V6 (25 mpg).

If the leak were from an oil galley to a cylinder you would see no sign of an external leak. You would however get an oil fouled plug in that cylinder. Or you would get oil in coolant or visa versa. But I'm assuming you have looked at your oil for signs of water and your coolant for signs of oil. As for performance, if the consumption is not enough to foul a plug into missing you may not notice much. Why don't you at least pull the plugs and have a look before you go about replacing the engine.

[Rev8k]

Believe me. Replacing the engine is the last resort. Especially since the engine is running fine otherwise.

Yes. I did look at the old oil as well as check the dipstick for any coolant leakage.
The coolant looked fine. No signs of oil leakage.
I think I will start pulling plugs. However, I thought the dealer already did that when they
checked for sludge. I suppose I could call and ask them. Also, a compression check might
be a good idea.

Anyway, I'm still leaning towards valve seats since it does smoke on cold starts.
That's the only other symptom I have so far.
It just seems that's alot of oil to go through for just valve seats. But I do drive the car
90 miles a day. Perhaps that might make a difference.

[Stillrunning]

Rev8k, forget the dealer, they are not on your side. Inspecting for sludge does not include pulling the plugs. Look at the plugs and do a compression check. That much oil from a valve seal or two at 87K is very excessive and I doubt the cause of your problem. The oil at startup could also be a blown head gasket as when the engine is off the oil would seep into the cylinder from the breach in the gasket. The volume of oil use looks more like HG at this stage than valve seal(s). If it turns out to be HG then you could also replace the seals when you fix the HG. If you match a reduced compression on a particular cylinder with oil fouled plug also on that cylinder then to me that would pretty much confirm HG. From that point you hope it is a HG and not a cracked head - also a possibility. But you won't really know for sure until you pull the head.

[skewe]

FYI - $3500 for the car is a bargain. I am sure it can fetch $5k on eBay.

If it is not killing you, just drive it till it dies.