accel problems - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

diengcamry · 09-20-2007, 01:44 AM

Ok it has a few symptoms and I did search but couldn't find what I was looking for. I think I have a bad sensor. If it starts (40% time it just cranks) it will idle just fine. In park it will go to red line if I slowly give it gas to full throttle. A quick blip of the pedal will cause hesitation. Full throttle and hold will stall my auto. In gear it's even worse. In gear anything more then about 1/4 throttle will stall. I can get to 70+mph but it takes about a mile. I replace pump and that was not it. Pulled plugs and they are ok. No arcing from wires and no signs of carbon tracking in cap. Rotor looks good also. Fuel filter, cap, rotor, plugs and wires done about 5-9K miles ago. I have good spark even when it doesn't start. I'm thinking either TPS, crank or maybe map. Any ideas? I can't find my digital multimeter right now but I will check the volts on the sensors tomorrow when I get off I hope. Suggestions?

dc_98_cam · 09-20-2007, 01:58 AM

Take a look at the diagnostic section of the repair manual for your car.
Maybe you can get some ideas as to what might be wrong.

diengcamry · 09-20-2007, 02:04 AM

I scanned through it but got a lot of basic Bull. I tried the fuel pump thinking the book might be on to something. That was a month ago. I've since given up on the book being even close to helpful. The tow bill is 88 just for a $50 diagonsis at my work but they are a Chrysler Jeep dealer not toyota. Tech gave me a few ideas and I tried. Which means I've checked the ignition system and fuel. Not either of those.

diengcamry · 09-20-2007, 02:08 AM

By ignition I mean I have good plugs wires cap and rotor and I get spark. By the way my car runs on three cylinders with the fourth igniting on the heat shield to the manifold hence the spark being there. no proof it's sparking right cylinder or correct time though. no poping through intake unless I hold throttle until it does stall which gives me a good cloud out the intake when it does die.

dc_98_cam · 09-20-2007, 02:09 AM

.... interesting to see if there are any DTC codes being set .... apparently no CEL yet.
Guess you have OBD I though ... not as convenient as OBD II.

deekay140 · 09-20-2007, 08:43 AM

you should always start with year and engine size. i will assume its a 4 cyl.if so, replace the coil

diengcamry · 09-20-2007, 09:18 PM

my bad. Yeah 94 2.2L. I think it may be a map or TPS as I idle fine when I do start. I have spark and fuel. I can't get a crank no start right now so I can't tell if it's cutting fuel or spark for the crank no start. When it does start it will idle fine in park or drive. I took it for a drive today and if I can ease it past 4K rpm it will go full throttle in a blink of the eye. From 4K to redline that is. It's easier to redline in park then drive though, which makes me think it's a map. But the off idle stumble make me think it's tps. If it helps the problem didn't start until after the engine was steamed cleaned.

diengcamry · 09-20-2007, 09:24 PM

no check engine light but my seat belt light does stay on with the seat belt fastened. I also found a burnt wire to the fuse block and fixed that. Seems to have fixed the crank no start problem but that may be coincidence. The burnt wire was a small wire off the battery positive terminal. It does have an aftermarket positive terminal wire that has been on since I bought it. I was told by a tech to measure the volt range on the tps and map and compare to factory specs. I have access to Alldata I just need to call a buddy to get the specs.

deekay140 · 09-21-2007, 07:00 AM

you have a distributor issue, check and make sure there is no water in spark plug tubes, replace the coil, you have a weak spark

Mike Gerber · 09-21-2007, 04:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by deekay140

you have a distributor issue, check and make sure there is no water in spark plug tubes, replace the coil, you have a weak spark

I have to agree. You have checked/replaced every part of the ignition system except the coil. The coils go fairly often on these 5SFE engines (along with the older 3SFE engines) and what you describe can easily be caused by a weak spark. You still haven't told us how many miles on the engine so this is a best guess. You can use a DVM and the specs from the manual to check the coil.

Mike

diengcamry · 09-21-2007, 10:40 PM

I checked for water but it has been almost 2 months since I washed it. I just found my DMM so I will check the coil tomorrow. Oh the car has 135K miles. Plugs, wires, cap and rotor were replaced 5K miles ago.

Dawgz · 09-21-2007, 11:54 PM

Check and Clean the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner.

check the Throttle body, clean it, and the butterfly valve in there.

that SHOULD help u.

diengcamry · 09-22-2007, 12:20 AM

MAF? I have a map and an IAT but no MAF. Unless I'm missing something? Between the filter and throttle body I have one plug in and it's the Inlet Air Temp sensor iirc. Throttle body is dirty but not too bad. It was cleaned not too long ago.

diengcamry · 09-24-2007, 03:38 PM

ok I just checked the Ohms on the G+ and G- result was 230 Ohms. NE+ and NE- were OFL. So I have a bad pickup coil if read the manual righ? I just called toyota and they want 409 for the complete dist. Checkers wants 150 reman without the module. Is the module the part that goes bad or will the checker's unit work? Checkers wants 200 for the module.need to fix this today please help. If I go to pick a part can I just check the resistance on the dist to make sure it will work? I hate buying electronics from the salvage yards but I need this car running tonight.

dc_98_cam · 09-24-2007, 05:47 PM

.... maybe you should check the specs on the ignition coil, within the distributor, as well as the pickup coil. ....
... a complete new distributor would have both though.
.... I would just get one from the salvage yard ... have to be absolutely sure that it will work in your vehicle though. ... specify California or not, year, model, engine, or whatever.

.... at the salvage yard, the chances are that the parts there will work. If the yard is reputable, they will exchange non-working parts for different ones. .... you'll never get a cash refund though.

If you decide on a used distributor, you might want to go ahead an purchase a new distributor cap .... The important thing here is to have clean, shiny metal electrodes ... inside the cap. This makes a big difference regarding ignition and performance. I would recommend a getting a name brand cap ... since you would be sure of getting better quality, longer lasting materials.