3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
94 Camry with 128,000 miles on the odometer. The tranny fluid looks very dark and dirty. I don't know if the fluid has ever been changed (haven't owned the car for long). No issues with the transmission though -- shifts very smoothly and has plenty of power. My question is should I flush the transmission or not? I've heard -- could be a myth -- that fluid on high-mileage transmissions shouldn't be changed. What do you guys recommend? Flush it, just drain and refill it, or leave it the hell alone? How much does it cost to flush anyway? Is it a plausible DIY for a complete noob?
.... just draining and refilling mine. By the time I get to the 3rd or 4th cycle in a few months, it should be mostly new fluid. .... Don't think you want dark or dirty trans fluid.
... Not too sure about the flush method.
On the Gen 4, you have a separate differential compartment. Maybe on the Gen 3 too. Just drain and fill one time.
.... Also, you should probably remove the transmission pan and clean all the metal powder and other residue, at least once. Minor work involved ... just a few pan bolts,... get a new pan gasket from the dealer.
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98 Camry LE, 2.2L, automatic
50k miles, drop in K&N A/F recent timing belt, water pump
.... just draining and refilling mine. By the time I get to the 3rd or 4th cycle in a few months, it should be mostly new fluid. .... Don't think you want dark or dirty trans fluid.
... Not too sure about the flush method.
On the Gen 4, you have a separate differential compartment. Maybe on the Gen 3 too. Just drain and fill one time.
.... Also, you should probably remove the transmission pan and clean all the metal powder and other residue, at least once. Minor work involved ... just a few pan bolts,... get a new pan gasket from the dealer.
Yeah, the 94 camry has a separate differential as well. I guess I'll have to change the fluid on that too. By the way, when you re-tighten those bolts after you're done, do they have any specific torque requirements? I read somewhere that over-tightening the bolts can cause the pan gasket to leak.
By the way, when you re-tighten those bolts after you're done, do they have any specific torque requirements? I read somewhere that over-tightening the bolts can cause the pan gasket to leak.
You're right .... you don't want to squash the pan bolt gaskets. I bought the OEM pan gasket, and just used a light touch on the bolts .... after two or three turns they seem to stop moving .... and I stopped tightening. Might be simpler to look up the torque value ...seems like it was 7 ft-lb. .... Will have to check that value again.
You're right .... you don't want to squash the pan bolt gaskets. I bought the OEM pan gasket, and just used a light touch on the bolts .... after two or three turns they seem to stop moving .... and I stopped tightening. Might be simpler to look up the torque value ...seems like it was 7 ft-lb. .... Will have to check that value again.
By the way, if the transmission still has the original fluid in it then it has to be Dextron II which is no longer available. If I'm doing a drain and refill then I'll be mixing some of the old Dextron II with new Dextron III making something like Dextron 2.5 . Do Dextron II and III mix well? By the way, what are the best brands of Dextron III and Dot 3 (brake fluid) for Gen 3 Camries?
If the fluid is really dark and dirty (and especially if it has a burnt smell), I would do a flush which is what I did on my newly acquired ’95 Camry a few months ago.
Materials:
a. six feet of 3/8” ID clear rubber hose from the hardware store (they’ll sell it by the foot). Make sure it’s clear.
b. transmission fluid funnel.
c. two empty gallon milk jugs and a permanent marker (like a sharpie)
d. Seven quarts of transmission fluid. You should only need five or six, think of the additional quart or two as insurance. Keep your receipt so you can return them if not needed. Also, buy the name brand fluid, don’t buy the generic stuff.
Steps:
a. Using a pitcher, add water to one of the milk jugs one quart at a time until you have put in four quarts. Mark lines on the jug after each quart. Set the other jug next to the first and mark lines on it as well. Drain the water.
b. With the engine off, unplug the left line going from the radiator to the transmission (as you are standing in front of the car looking at the engine, the line on your right). Slip the 3/8” ID hose onto the nib coming from the radiator, put the other end in one of the milk jugs which is sitting on the left side of the car (so you can see it from the driver’s seat). Take the caps off of a few quarts of transmission fluid. Put the funnel into the transmission fluid tube (the tube where you check the level).
c. Start the engine. As transmission fluid starts filling the milk jug, be adding fresh fluid through the funnel – try to keep the level inside the car as constant as you can (as one quart comes out, be putting in a quart). That’s what the lines on the milk jug are for, so you can see exactly how much is coming out. After four quarts, put the hose into the next jug.
d. At some point during the flush, get into the driver’s seat and with your foot firmly on the brake, shift the transmission one gear at a time, pausing for five seconds or so on each gear. Put it back into park.
e. At some point you’ll notice that the fluid going through the tube looks “clean”, turn off the car and reconnect the hose from the transmission to the radiator. Make sure that you’ve put in the same amount of fluid as you took out (you know how much came out because the jugs are marked and you know how many empty bottles of transmission fluid are laying on your driveway).
Start the car, let it run for a couple minutes, then check the level with the dipstick.
With regard to dropping the pan, I didn’t do that on mine. Does Toyota even recommend it? Volvo says to not drop the pan unless there is a problem.
And I said to buy “name brand” transmission fluid over generic based on personal preference – I know that the generic stuff is supposed to be “as good” as the name brand stuff, but for just a buck more or so per quart I pick up the name brand stuff.
Wahed i have to be a stick in the mud here and disagree with some of the other people. Your car has over 100,000 so if this were my car i would say do NOT flush. Do a search for other posts where people with high mileage trans flushed and killed their trans. (The crud was holding it together).
Try just a simple fluid change and not a flush. If she is still running well after that you might take a chance on a flush.
Most likely, the problem with 'flushing' is that there is a lot of metal powder and foreign matter in the bottom of the transmission pan. When you get a lot of fluid turbulence, as during the flushing operation, you will agitate this dust and powder, and allow it to move to the valve body or other places where it can lodge.
If you remove the pan, clean it, replace the gasket, and also the strainer ... a minor task, you shouldn't have any problems.
If you don't remove the pan and clean it, you could easily damage something permanently.
You will see what I am talking about if you take the pan off and examine it.
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98 Camry LE, 2.2L, automatic
50k miles, drop in K&N A/F recent timing belt, water pump
When I do my flush soon...Im gonna give the Seafoam Transflush a shot. Ive been more than happy with the results from using seafoam in the intake, oil, and gas....so Im gonna give it a shot.
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1993 Camry LE I4 Bone Stock - 380,000 miles (as of Aug '11)
1993 Camry XLE V6 Bone Stock - 260,xxx miles (as of July '11) Blown Head Gasket
2003 Chevy Trailblazer EXT I6 - 107,000 miles (as of Aug '11)
When you have the hose in the jug with the car running, how fast is the oil being pumped out into the jug? Is it like one quart a minute or five quarts a minute?
When I did mine, I put SeaFoam Trans Tune in there a few weeks before, and then just drained and refilled. I didn't bother dropping the pan or changing the differential, but the fluid seems a lot clearer now and the car runs better. I'll keep checking it, but chances are I'll leave it as is until the fluid gets dirty again. I use the Castrol GTX Import ATF. It says that it's compitable with Dextron II cars. I might drop the pan eventually just to clean off the magnets and change the differential, I just really don't want to get involved if I don't have to.
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Transmission flush?
recent timing belt, water pump
. Do Dextron II and III mix well? By the way, what are the best brands of Dextron III and Dot 3 (brake fluid) for Gen 3 Camries?
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