3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I have just installed my supercharger with the 4psi pulley.
when i drive and put my foot fast down, i have the feeling the car is no reacting fast/hesitate. (i hear the supercharger speed-up, i miss the punch in my back)
Many of you will answer..... buy an apexi, or something like that.:
fist, i don't know how i must use something like that.
secondly, i strongly thinking about to let my car Chiptuned.
So:
1. Can i reliable use the meter to prove my car is driving lean?
2. Is chiptuning good (enough)?
3. When i chiptune my car , is it safe to do that with the 6psi pulley?
Wow that is fast! Minutes later i have got my first anwers.
Wideband ,your thinking about devices like apexi?
When i do chiptuning, i get warranty and when i upgrade my car they will do a free update.
So the only thing i have to know, if it is running lean, so i can see my car is going to die and must go back to the tuner.
not really Apexi .... AEM would be better, but that Autometer one i posted is fine as well
and i dont think most people would recommend chipping the 1MZ ECU, however i dont know for sure ... i think most people here go the route of digital engine management for tuning [Greddy eManage, Apexi SAFC/SAFC-II, etc.]
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No i don't ship the ECU, i don't believe it is the right way (Every Camry is different.....)
I go with my car to a compagny with a dyno.( http://www.ziptuning.nl/en/)
the narrowband is fine if you just want to fine out if your car is running lean/rich but beyond that, you'd need a wideband
as for chipping your ride, a reputable company that takes into consideration what mods you have and has an in-house way of reflashing the the ecu is the only way to go. most universal chip sets /reflashes don't work that well with cars with more extreme mods such as boost.
as for tuning, unless you're shooting for a lot, an apexi safcII will be all that you need
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"Life is a deep sleep, of which love is the dream..." Ripped...and the girls are loving it.
The digital meter displays AFM and every 50 sec. the battery voltage.
Again i have a question :
as soon as i got the meter, i want to connect it.... (now i am afraid to drive my car because i don't know if i kill it , next week i must drive this car on vacation )
To measure the AFM i think i must connect the gauge with the a/f and lambda sensor.
- Does anybody knows which wires (colors/position) i must tap from the computer. (I have read the manuals..but i can't find it.)
I wouldn't recommend the 6 psi pulley at all until you have some more work done, that supercharger is fine around 4 psi, but if you push it you will hurt your engine. Get a new y pipe at least if you are wanting to run more boost.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony the Tiger
I mod my Camry because I am too cheap to go out and buy a real sports car
1992 Camry XLE v6: p&p + 3angle, CAI, y pipe, K-Sport coilovers, 5-speed swap
1996 Eagle Talon TSI AWD: IPT 3700 restall, DSMlink v3, HKS exhaust, ETS street fmic kit
The Gen 4 1MZ-FE wiring diagram indicates that the bank 1 sensor 1
O2 sensor, labeled as part H3, is the 4 wire heated version.
See p. 66 of the wiring diagram in the online repair manual to confirm.
Note that there is also a bank 2 sensor 1 O2 sensor, as well as a bank 1 sensor 2 O2 sensor.
This H3 labeled O2 sensor should have:
a black wire with a yellow stripe,
a light blue wire with a black stripe,
a solid brown wire,
and also the signal wire, which is a shielded white wire.
It would appear that you should connect:
The Green wire from the A/F gauge to the white wire of the oxygen sensor.... You will probably find that the white wire is shielded.
The Black wire from A/F gauge goes to any clean and rust free chassis ground.
The Red wire from A/F gauge goes to a wire that is 12v positive when ignition switch is on.
Guessing that the Orange wire from A/F gauge goes to a 12 v positive wire that is hot when the headlights or parking lights are on .... for night illumination.
The A/F gauge instruction page states that you have to be particularly careful to not damage the O2 sensor. It says that you should not disconnect the sensor wires, or use resistance or volt meters unless you are familiar with their internal impedances.
Examine the end of the shielded white O2 signal wire as it enters the O2 sensor. See if there is any place that the white signal wire is actually exposed. If this is not the case, then it may be that to make a connection to the white shielded O2 sensor wire, with the green A/F wire, you should carefully open a section of the shield material, using a razor or knife, being careful to not disrupt its continuity, and then use a tap connector to actually connect the white signal wire and the green A/F wire. This type of connector is just a push on clip, with one wire inserted into each notch of the clip. The alternative type of splice would probably involve solder, which may or may not be safe, with regard to the O2 sensor.
Suggest disconnecting negative battery terminal before doing anything to wiring.
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98 Camry LE, 2.2L, automatic
50k miles, drop in K&N A/F recent timing belt, water pump
Last edited by dc_98_cam; 10-01-2007 at 08:50 AM.
Reason: Caution
I must go on vacation over about 1,5 week with my car.......
Is it safe to drive 2 days add 2500-3500 RPM (120 km/h)with 4psi pulley without fuel adjustments. In other words , is ther a high risk that i drive lean?
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